^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


# 


/ 


O 


o 


&. 


L<*- 


0", 


/ 


f/. 


.0 


8«IIIIIM    12.5 


IIIM 


I.I 


1.25 


12.2 


2.0 


1.8 


U    111.6 


Photogiaphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


^ 


€^ 


V 


^ 


:\ 


\ 


'^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


^^ 


^ 


^ 

<^-    \ 
^^% 


^ 


^^ 


%^.^^ 


^ 


I 


^'^';^'y  »||||'*t.»»T»^-Ht;<iyw-^^,^f-»»r»«!rT?^^r'-:Tr.p^r'y!*^^j 


1^ 


o 


v 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meiileur  exemplaire 
qu'ii  tui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-3tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


[TTl    Coloured  covers/ 
uO^    Couverture  de  couleur 


D 
D 
D 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag6e 

Covers  restored  and/or  l&minated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 
D 
D 

□ 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  peMiculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetSes  ou  piqudes 


n 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


n 


Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 


D 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


D 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


n 


D 


□ 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
:i  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


D 
D 
D 

n 


Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

SOX 

X 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

■m 


ails 

du 

>difier 

une 

nage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  wi^h  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'uxemplaire  film6  fut  rerjroduit  grAce  d  la 
gendrositA  da: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6Xh  reproduites  avpc  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  conditioti  dt 
de  la  netteti  de  I'exemplaire  IWmd.  at  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  tha 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termina^^t  soit  par  ia 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  scit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  son!  filmds  en  commandant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  'END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
da  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  da  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


rata 

9 


lelure. 


3 


(2X 


i 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

>■■■ 


THE]- 


GRAND  TRUNK 


GREAT  PLEASURE   ROUTE, 

— OFFSRINO  A— 

MOST  ATTRACTIVE   SELECTION 

—or— 

POPULAR    EXCURSIONS, 

via  Niagara  Falls,  River  St.  Lawrenpe,  with  Thousand 
Islands  and  Rapids,  Montreal,  Quebec,  River 
Saguenay,  Gulf  Ports,  Lower  Provinces,  Lake 
Champlain,  and  Lake  George,  Saratoga,  the  White 
Mountains,  etc.,  etc. 

THE  RICHELIEU  AHD  OHTARIO  HAYI6ATI0H  CO.'S  STEAMERS 

Comprlae  the  original  Boy»l  Mall  and  Rlcbelleu  Llnei,  with  the  addition  of 
MTeral  new  gteamen,  thus  forming  two  flrst-claa*  Lines  of  Steamers,  which 
cannot  be  surpasafid.  They  are  the  only  lines  now  off«rinK  TMurlHtg  an  op- 
Sot "unity  t»* tew  the  MACfNIFICENT  8CENKBY  of  the  TUoTjSANIJ  ISLANDS, 
EjlPIDS  OK  THE  8T.  LAWKENCE,  and  the  far  famed  RIVER  SAOUENAY. 
Thto  Route  possemei  peculiar  advantages  over  any  othir  between  Niagara  Fall* 
and  Quebec.    Tickets  are  valid  by  Rail  or  Steamer. 

Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  will  be  attached  to  the  evening  train  from 
Toronto,  and  will  run  through  to  Kingston  Wharf,  and  passengers  will  remain 
In  the  car  until  the  boat  arrives.  Mo  er.tra  charge  for  meals  jetween  Toronto 
and  Montreal. 

The  splendid  condition  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  Including  Its  equip- 
ment of  new  Passenger  Cars,  now  LocomoUvrs,  Steel  Tracks,  etc.,  bring  it 
oromlneutly  Ijefore  the  public  as  a  flrst«lass  line,  preferable  to  the  majority 
between  the  East  and  West,  via  Oorhara  and  Qlen  House,  by  which  parties  c^n 
ascend  Mount  Washington  by  carriage  road,  by  far  the  best  approach  to  thU 
attractive  mountain  range. 

Tickets  and  Information  ma*  be  obtained  at  the  principal  Ticket  Offices, 
also,  or  the  AgenU  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Company,  from  whom  Ex- 
cursions and  Tourlsta'  Routes  and  Bates  of  Fare  can  be  obtained. 

J.  B.  LaBELLE,  General  Manager. 

A.  MILLOY,  Traffic  Manager,  R.  &  O.  N.  Oo. 

JOSEPH  HICK80N,  General  Manager,  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  HontreaL 

W.  WAINWRIGHT,  Asslswnt       " 

L.  J.  8EAR0EANT,  Traffic  "  ' 

WH.  EDGAR,  General  Passenger  Agt., 


t,JS^ 


NK 


UTE, 


IONS, 

n  Thousand 
abac,  River 
nces,  Lake 
a.  the  White 


'S  STEAMERS 

H  the  addition  of 
Steamers,  which 
T')iirlHt8  an  op- 

JSAND  ISLANDS. 

ER  SAOUENAY. 

een  Niagara  Falla 

rentng  train  from 
ngers  will  remain 
jetween  Toronto 


eluding  Its  ecjulp- 
ikB,  etc.,  bring  It 
,  to  the  mujorlty 
which  parties  can 
approach  to  tbU 

pal  Ticket  Offlcee, 
from  whom  Ex  ■ 
ed. 

_  Manager, 
nger,  R.  &  O.  N.  Co. 

Montreal. 


w 


f 


1^: 


PHAT  BOY'S  RACY  DESCRIPTION 


St.  Lawrence  River 


AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 


A  GUIDE  FOR  THE  TOURIST  AND  TRAVELER. 


Making  a  Round  Trip  from  Hew  York,  via  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  H.  n.  R., 

N.  Y.  W.  S.  &  B.  R.  R.,  and  the  Ontario  and  Western  H.  R., 

to  Utioa,  Syraouae,  Rosheater,  Buffalo.  Niagara  Falls  and 

Toronto,  through  Lake  Ontario,  Thouaand  lalanda  and 

Rapiaa  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Montreal,  Queteo, 

Saguenay  River,  Lake  Champlsln,  Lake  George, 

Saratoga,  Albany,    New   Yorl.    and  Boston. 


Fifth  Edition,    -    -    Copyrlgrhted  1 886. 


E.  F.  Babbaoe,  Publisher. 


BOCnESTEB,  N.  Y., 

POdT-RXPRKSS  PRINTINO  OOMPANT,  18  TO  18  MILL  STREET. 
1886. 

Y 


;  il 
III 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  presenting  this  work,  "The  Phat  Boy's  Racy  De- 
scription" of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  from  Kingston 
to  Montreal,  the  only  correct  guick  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  before  the  public,  being  a  round  trip  from  New 
York  to  Buffalo,  Niagara  Fails,  Toronto,  Kingston,  Alexan- 
dria Bay,  Thousand  Islands,  and  Rapids  of  tiie  St.  Law- 
rence to  Montreal,  Quebec,  Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George, 
Saratoga,  Albany,  New  York  and  Boston.  (Just  completed, 
the  "  Phat  Boy's"  Chart  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  being  a  birds- 
eye  view  of  the  route  from  Kingston  to  Montreal,  showing 
every  Island,  Town,  Village,  City,  River,  Creek  or  Stream, 
Rapid,  Canal  or  Light  House,  and  route  of  all  the  steam- 
ers). It  may  not  be  amiss  tc>  state  the  fact  which  prompted 
its  issue.  Financial  or  perioral  ends  are  always  the  para- 
mount object  to  be  attained  by  an  individual  who  puts 
forth  anything  in  this  world.  I  therefore  plead  guilty  to 
the  above  charge,  and  for  so  doing  propose  to  give  to  the 
tourist  or  traveler  down  the  majestic  St.  Lawrence  a  faith- 
ful description  of  every  point  of  interest  that  meets  the  eye 
of  the  beholder. 

Having  held  the  position  for  ten  years  of  "  The  Guide 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  and  in  that  capacity  made  the  trip  a 
pleasant  one  for  everybody,  without  regard  to  age,  weight, 
sex,  colorj  or  previous  condition  of  servitude,  I  feel  capable 


ff 


of  compiling  a  book  which  does  not  contain  any  pictorial 
illustrations  of  the  scenic  beauty  connected  with  the  trip, 
feeling  confident  that  a  plain  unvarnished  descri|>tion  of  ail 
the  various  points  of  interest  would  be  sufficient.  The 
tourist  can  thus  feast  the  eye  on  a  thousand  pictures  that  a 
volume  ten  times  this  size  could  not  contain,  for  no  matter 
how  often  you  open  the  eyes  during  the  day,  they  will  fall 
u^ion  some  del'ifhtful  scene,  where  the  God  of  Nature  has 
smiled  upon  her,  within  an  hour.  Neither  have  I  given  a 
highly  colored  description  of  the  Rapids ;  they  have  been 
viewed  and  described  by  thousands,  and  the  effect  produced 
is  as  varied  in  character  as  the  individual  writers  differed  in 
temperament  and  looks. 

Trusting  that  this  volume  may  meet  with  as  cheerful  a 
greeting  by  the  public  as  it  has  always  accorded  my  efforts 
to  please,  and  if  its  perusal  causes  the  weary  or  lonesome 
traveler  one  hour  of  mirth  or  pleasure,  its  mission  will  have 
been  accomplished. 

Respectfully  yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAGE,  "  Phat  Boy," 

Guide  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 


lin  any  |)ictorial 
;<1  with  the  trip, 
le8cri|)tion  of  all 
sufficient.  The 
d  pictures  that  a 
in,  for  no  matter 
ay,  they  will  fall 
1  of  Nature  has 
have  I  given  a 
they  have  been 
e  effect  produced 
►Titers  differed  in 

ith  as  cheerful  a 
:orded  my  efforts 
eary  or  lonesome 
mission  will  have 


"  Phat  Boy," 
^ht  Si.  Lawrence. 


REFERENCES  FOR  THIS  WORK. 

\Vc  have  a  number  of  references  as  to  the  wcrth  of  this 
little  volume.  Space  anil  time  forbid  a  mention  of  them 
al' ,  some  of  the  mos*  prominent  will  suffice : 

i.  At  the  request  of  a  friend  I  purchased  a  copy  of  the 
Phat  Boy's  Racy  description  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and 
the  perusal  caused  me  to  laugh  so  much  that  the  corners  of 
my  mouth  shook  hands  at  the  back  of  my  neck. 

T.  W.  O'Brien. 

2.  At  Alexandria  Bay  last  season,  a  lady  had  the  misfor- 
tune to  sprain  her  ankle,  (no  matter  how  ;  but  we  will  say, 
least  some  one  may  be  led  astray  as  to  the  real  cause,  that 
it  was  not  done  falling  or  stumbling  over  the  editor.)  We 
very  kindly  gave  her  a  copy  of  the  "  Phat  Boy's"  Racy  Des- 
cription of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  she  was  able  to 
walk  in  ten  hours  after  the  accident,  apparently  as  well  as 
ever. 

3.  This  volume  will  not  bring  home  a  stray  cow ;  but  it 
will  do  the  next  best  thing ;  milk  them  in  the  pasture,  thus 
saving  the  wear  and  tear  incident  to  their  coming  home. 

4.  The  delight  and  pleasure  that  the  perusal  of  your  little 
volume  gave  me,  I  am  unable  to    express. — Susan  B. 

N.  B. — Then  send  it  by  Freight.—"  Phat  Boy." 

5.  A  lady  who  had  one  copy  (by  the  way,  she  was  mar- 
ried,) wrote  for  the  second ;  it  was  sent  to  her ;  but  mean- 


■IJ 


iff 


while  she  had  changed  her  residence  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum. 
Now  here  is  a  chance  for  married  men  who  wish  to  become 
single  for  25  cents.     Send  for  a  copy. 

6.  A  very  restless,  nervous  man  bought  a  copy  ;  read  to 
page  63,  went  to  sleep  quietly  for  ten  hours.  First  good 
rest  in  four  years. 

7.  It  is  good  for  maiden  ladies  ;  has  been  known  to  cure 
headache,  toothache,  sprains,  bruises,  ingrowing  nails,  and 
it  matters  not. 

8.  Eli  Perkins  will  read  a  copy  of  this  work,  August  25th, 
1886,  and  from  that  day  until  death  will  speak  the  truth. 


^unatic  Asylum, 
wish  to  become 


a  copy  ;  read  to 
irs.     First  good 


"PHAT  BOY'S"  RACY  DESCRIPTION 

— OF — 

THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


1  known  to  cure 
jwing  nails,  and 

)rk,  August  25th, 
»eak  the  truth. 


THE  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  its  Thousand  Islands 
and  Rapids,  is  day  by  day  attracting  more  ?nd  more 
attention  among  tourists.  There  is  so  much  that  is  graitd, 
weird,  sublime  and  exhilerating  in  the  scenery  and  balmy 
atmosphere  ot  the  majestic  river,  as  it  passes  in  its  onward 
flow  from  the  lake  to  the  gulf,  that  we  need  not  for  a  mo- 
ment wonder  why  it  is  that  there  is  a  great  annual  increase 
in  the  number  of  those  intelligent  people,  who,  from  East, 
West  and  South,  repair  to  its  placid  waters  in  summer  to 
recuperate  their  wasted  energies  and  enjoy  that  luxuriating 
season  known  to  every  American  as  "vacation." 

A  vacation  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  means  a  sojourn  at 
some  pretentious  or  lowly  cottage,  or  at  some  hotel  of 
either  class  for  a  few  days,  or  for  one,  two  or  more  weeks, 
as  the  time,  finances  and  incHnation  of  the  individual  may 
dictate ;  or  it  may,  as  in  hundreds  of  instances  it  does,  only 
include  a  voyage  of  rapid  transit  from  New  York  to  Utica, 
Clayton,  Niagara  Falls,  Lewiston,  Toronto  or  Kingston  to 
Alexandria  Bay  or  Montreal,  then  return  home.  There  are 
several  different  popular  starting  places  to  reach  the  river ; 
it  is  presumed  you  will  take  the  most  convenient  one,  and 
we  will  consider  ourselves  pleased  with  the  selection. 


Route  A. 


NEW  YORK  CENTRAL  be  H.  R.  R.  R.  LES- 
SEES OF  THE  WEST  SHORE  ROUTE. 


THE  TOURIST  ROUTE  OF  THE  NORTH. 

While  many  suppose  that  both  sides  of  the  Hudson  River 
present  equal  attraction — and  it  would  be  hard  to  decide 
which  is  the  most  beautiful — it  is  a  curious  fact  that  all,  or 
nearly  all,  the  noted  summer  resorts  for  which  the  country 
adjacent  is  famous  are  located  on  its  western  bank.  Thus, 
starting  from  New  York  and  following  up  the  West  Shore 
Route,  we  find  the  PaUsades,  Tappan,  Rockland  Lake, 
Stony  Point,  Cranston's.  West  Point,  Cornwall,  Lakes  Mo- 
honk  and  Minnewaska,  the  Catskills,  Saratoga,  Mount 
McGregor,  and  the  Adirondacks  (in  which  the  great  river 
rises),  all  on  the  same  side,  and  all  easily  accessible  by  the 
New  York,  West  Shore  and  Buffalo  Railway.  In  addition 
to  these,  the  magnificent  cars  of  this  route  convey  the 
traveler  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Champlain  and  Montreal,  on 
the  north ;  Sharon  Springs,  Cooperstown,  Richfield  Springs, 
Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo  and  Chautauqua  Lake,  and  make 
close  connections  for  all  the  White  Mountain  and  Eastern 
resorts,  for  the  Thousand  Islands,  Watkin's  Glen  and  the 
Lake  region  of  Central  New  York.     It  is  thus  emphatically 


'wittfittirtiifflaMirif  -  ^^ 


R.  R.  LES- 
ROUTE. 

;  NORTH. 

e  Hudson  River 
hard  to  decide 
fact  that  all,  or 
lich  the  country 
n  bank.  Thus, 
the  West  Shore 
Rockland  Lake, 
wall,  Lakes  Mo- 
aratoga,  Mount 
I  the  great  river 
ccessible  by  the 
ay.  In  addition 
>ute  convey  the 
ind  Montreal,  on 
Lichfield  Springs, 
Lake,  and  make 
tain  and  Eastern 
's  Glen  and  the 
hus  emphatically 


the  tourists  route  of  the  north,  and  realizing  this  fact,  its 
projectors  and  managers  have  done  everything  in  their 
power  to  render  it  attractive  to  this  constantly  increasing 
and  most  fastidious  class  of  travelers. 

While  traversing  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  a  State 
noted  for  its  scenery,  this  railway  is  the  most  complete  in 
all  details  of  construction  and  equipment  of  any  in  this 
country.  It  is  a  double  track,  steel  rail  line,  with  an  un- 
usually wide  space  between  tiacks,  juiming  north  from  Jer- 
sey City  along  the  west  shore  of  tLf*  Hudson  to  Albany, 
and  thence  through  the  fertile  Valley  of  the  Mohawk  and 
across  Central  New  York,  touching  at  Utica,  Syracuse  and 
Rochester,  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls.  Its  grades  are 
easy,  its  curves  are  light,  its  steel  rails  are  among  the  heav- 
iest known  in  railway  construction,  and  its  road-bed  will  be 
crowned  with  a  deep  ballasting  of  stone. 

Owing  to  this  excellent  road-bed  and  the  great  strength 
of  its  iron  bridges  this  company  has  been  able  to  build  ex- 
ceptionally heavy  locomotives  for  its  various  classes  of  traf- 
fic. The  passenger  engines  burn  anthracite  coal,  and  are 
designed  to  haul  trains  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  coaches  at  a 
high  rate  of  speed.  They  are  provided  with  special  ar- 
rangements in  the  fire  and  smoke  boxes  and  smoke  stacks 
to  consume  all  gases,  and  prevent  the  escape  of  smoke  or 
cinders. 

LOCOMOTIVES,   CARS   AND   STATION   HOUSES. 

The  entire  passenger  equipment  of  the  road  was  especi- 
ally designed  and  built  by  the  Pullman  Palace  Car  Com- 
pany, and  is  the  most  complete  in  all  details  pertaining  to 
elegance  of  finish,  comfort  and  safety  in  the  world.     From 


10 


the  palatial  buffet  cars  with  interiors  finished  in  variegated 
hard-woods  and  furnished  with  plate  glass  mirrors,  luxurious 
arm  chairs,  soft  carpets  and  rich  drapery,  to  the  smoking 
cars,  finished  with  figured  oak,  and  provided  with  revolving 
chairs,  upholstered  in  leather,  all  are  the  most  perfect  speci- 
mens of  the  car-builder's  art  extant.  The  exterior  of  the 
cars  making  up  West  Shore  passenger  trains  is  painted  in 
a  rich  dark  olive  and  gold,  which  produces  a  most  pleasing 
effect. 

The  station  houses  erected  along  the  entire  route  from 
New  York  to  Buffalo  are  architectural  gems,  liarmonious  in 
color  and  design  with  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  scenery 
through  which  the  road  passes.  Those  at  the  New  York 
terminus,  at  Kingston,  Albany,  Utica,  Syracuse  and  Buffalo 
will,  when  finished,  surpass  in  completeness  and  artistic  de- 
sign any  series  of  railway  stations  ever  erected  by  a  single 
company. 

THE   NEW   YORK  STATION. 

The  New  York  terminus  of  this  great  railway  was  pro- 
jected upon  a  scale  of  vastness  and  perfection  of  detr'.il  com- 
mensurate with  the  rest  of  the  magnificent  scheme.  It  is  at 
Weehawken,  opposite  the  heart  of  the  great  city,  and  close 
beneath  the  height  on  which  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  be- 
fore the  pistol  of  Aaron  Burr.  It  extends  for  more  than  a 
mile  along  the  river  front,  and,  with  its  numerous  docks  and 
piers,  presents  nearly  six  miles  of  working  space,  in  which 
vessels  of  every  description  may  receive  freight.  From  here 
commodious  and  elegantly  ajipointed  ferry-boats  run  to  the 
handsome  up-town  passenger  station  at  the  foot  of  Forty- 
second  Street.     The  express  trains  of  the  West  Shore  Route 


in  variegated 
ors,  luxurious 
the  smoking 
vith  revolving 
perfect  speci- 
ctericr  of  the 
is  painted  in 
most  jileasing 

re  route  from 
larmonious  in 
esque  scenery 
le  New  York 
se  and  Buffalo 
nd  artistic  de- 
id  by  a  single 


Sf. 

Iway  was  pro- 
of det.".il  com- 
leme.  It  is  at 
city,  and  close 
milton  fell  be- 
)r  more  than  a 
rous  docks  and 
pace,  in  which 
t.  From  here 
aats  run  to  the 
foot  of  Forty- 
3t  Shore  Route 


leave  from  and  arrive  at  the  down  town  station,  foot  of  Jay 
Street,  accessible  from  Elevated  stations  at  Franklin,  Cham- 
bers and  Barclay  Streets  ;  also  leave  from  and  arrive  at  the 
up  town  station  at  the  foot  of  West  42nd  Street,  New  York, 
and  from  the  foot  of  Fulton  Street,  Brooklyn.  The  pas- 
senger from  New  York  has  thus  an  option  of  starting  from 
any  one  of  half  a  dozen  points,  a  great  convenience  when 
one  considers  the  peculiar  position  and  length  of  the  city. 
Passengers  are  cautioned  to  consult  official  time-tables  in 
the  Company's  publications,  or  in  the  leading  newspapers, 
with  the  view  of  ascertaining  just  what  trains  leave  from 
and  arrive  at  the  various  stations  named. 

In  the  subsequent  pages  one  may  obtain  partial  glimpses 
of  some  of  the  innumerable  delightful  places  to  which  this 
highway  for  business  and  pleasure  travel  will  guide  him,  and 
a  few  hints  of  the  many  pleasures  in  store  for  his  summer 
holiday. 

BETWEEN    NEW    YORK   AND   THE   THOUSAND 
ISLANDS 

"THE    ONTARIO    ROUTE." 
New  York,  Ontario  &  Western  Railway  Co. 

Running  from  New  York  to  the  City  of  Oswego,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  and  in  connection  with  the  R.  W.  &  O.  R.  R. 
from  Cape  Vincent,  forming  the  most  attractive  route  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  is  the  only  line  running  Pull- 
man sleepers  through  without  change  between  New  York 
and  the  Thousand  Islands.     On  arrival  of  trains  at  Cape 


!■!{ 


■"1-<!S^ 


r^^i' 


13 

V  ncent,  the  new  steamer  St.  Lawrence,  the  handsomest 
and  swiftest  on  the  River,  leaves  for  all  landings  among 
the  Islands. 

The  train  carrying  through  sleepers  leaves  New  York  at 
5:30  p.  m  ,  arriving  at  Cape  Vincent  at  9:30  a.  m.,  and  Al- 
exandria Bav  at  1 1:30  a  m.;  giving  tourists  a  de'-^htful  ride 
of  twenty-five  miles  down  the  Islands  to  the  Bay.  Ample 
time  is  given  at  Richland  for  breakfast.  Returning,  the  St. 
Lawrence  leaves  Alexandria  Bay  at  4:00  p.  m.,  arriving  at 
Cape  Vincent  at  6:00  p.  m.,  and  train  leaves  at  6:10  p.  m.,^ 
arriving  in  New  York  at  9:30  a.  m. 

The  depots  and  ferries  of  the  New  York,  Ontario  & 
Western  Railway  are  located  in  New  York  at  the  foot  of 
West  42nd  Street  and  Harrison  Street,  from  which  points 
r  ommodious  and  elegantly  appointed  ferry  boats  run  to  the 
passenger  station  at  Weehawken,  and  in  Brooklyn  at  the 
foot  of  Fulton,  Brooklyn  Annex. 

The  route  of  the  Ontario  and  Western,  after  leaving 
Weehawken,  is  west  ox  the  Palisadei,  through  the  counties 
of  Bergen  in  New  Jersey,  and  Rockland  in  New  York,  fol- 
lowing the  fertile  and  romantic  valley  of  the  Hackensack. 
At  Valley  Cottage  the  road  tunnels  through  the  mountains, 
and  for  sixteen  miles  skirts  the  banks  of  the  Hudson, 
through  the  Highlands,  traversing  all  the  historic  and  pic- 
turesque points  along  that  world-famed  stream.  Then 
over  the  foot-hills  of  the  Catskills,  through  the  mountains 
of  Central  New  York,  and  along  the  valleys  of  the  Dela- 
ware, Neversink,  Beaverkill  and  Chenango  Rivers,  with 
their  lovely  picturesque  views  of  mountain,  lake  and  river, 
to  Lake  Ontario,  making  one  of  the  mosr  beautiful  routes 
across  the  Empire  State. 


:  handsomest 
idings  among 

New  York  at 
a.  m.,  and  Al- 
le''_,litful  ride 
Bay.  Ample 
irning,  the  St. 
1.,  arriving  at 
at  6: ID  p.  m.^ 

It,  Ontario  & 
It  the  foot  of 
which  points 
ats  run  to  the 
rooklyn  at  the 

after  leaving 
\\  the  counties 
Jew  York,  fol- 

Hackensack. 
lie  mountains, 

the  Hudson, 
toric  and  pic- 
tream.  Then 
he  mountains 

of  the  Dela- 

Rivers,  with 

ake  and  river, 

jautiful  routes 


The  night  express  trains  run  every  day,  including  Sunday. 
The  Pullman  buffet  sleepers  are  of  the  latest  models,  and 
complete  in  all  details  pertaining  to  elegance  of  finish, 
comfort  and  safety. 

The  City  of  Kingston,  Ontario,  is  easily  reached  from 
Cape  Vincent  via  Steamer  Maud,  which  leaves  after  the 
arrival  of  train  from  New  York,  and  returning  leaves  in  the 
afternoon,  connecting  with  train  for  the  south. 

The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  R.  R.,  leaving 
the  Grand  Central  Depot,  42nd  Street,  New  York,  passes 
along  the  beautiful  Hudson  River  to  Albany,  then  the  great 
four  tracked  railroad  of  the  world  conveys  you  to  Utica 
(where  the  direct  connections  are  made  with  the  Utica  & 
Black  River  R.  R.;  then  the  traveler  can,  if  he  desires  pass 
over  this  popular  route,  reaching  in  a  few  hours  the  majestic 
St.  Lawrence  at  Clayton,  connecting  with  the  steamers  of 
the  Riciielieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  direct  for 
Montreal),  Syracuse,  Rochester,  Buffalo,  or 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  ticket  office  of  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  and  Riche- 
lieu and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  iloyal  Mail  Line  is 
located  at  No.  4,  International  Hotel,  and  is  presided  over 
by  Mrs.  L.  Barber,  who  will  cheerfully  give  you  any  infor- 
mation desired.  Trains  leave  the  Falls  every  morning,  Sun- 
day excepted,  by  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  to  Toronto,  and  arrive 
in  time  to  connect  with  Mail  Line  for  Montreal.  Trains 
leave  Niagara  Falls  every  morning  except  Sunday,  at  9:05 
a.  m.,  via  Central  Hudson  Branch  for  Lewiston,  where  con- 


I-1 


THE 


CLIFTON  HOUSE 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 

FRONTING  THE  STATE  AND  CANADIAN  RESERVATIONS. 


THE  CLIFTON 

l8  the  ONLY  Hotel  from  the  apHrtmentH  aud  verandahs  of  which  there  is 

A  Full  and  Unotstructed  View  of  the  Tails, 

a  fact  visitors  should  bear  in  mind. 

The  vIpt  inolades  the  Islands,  Bapids  and  Adjacent  Country 

for  Kiles. 


Niagara  has  the  endorsement  of  the  Medical  and  Sanitary 
authorities,  for  health,  invigorating  air  and  salubrity  of 
climate,  at  all  seasons,  and  is  delightfully  cool  during  the 
Summer  months. 

The  Hotel  is  elegant  in  all  features  and  apartments ;  has 
apartments  en  suite,  with  every  convenience  and  luxury, 
and  the  cuisine  and  service  is  in  all  particulars  superior. 

Address,  for  all  information,  by  mail  or  telegraph, 

GEORGE  M.  COLBORN, 

Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 


JSE, 

ERVATIONS. 
)N 

af  which  there  is 

he  Falls, 
ijacent  Country 


al  and  Sanitary 
id  salubrity  of 
;ool  during  the 

partments;  has 
ce  and  luxury, 
rs  superior, 

legraph, 

LBORN, 

i  Falls,  N.  Y» 


»5 
nections  are  made  with  the  fast  sailing  side-wheel  steamboat 

CHICORA, 

crossing  the  beautiful  Lake  Ontario  and  arriving  in  Toronto 
in  time  to  connect  with  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Naviga- 
tion Company  Royal  Mail  Line  for  Kingston,  Alexandria 
Bay,  Thousa'  Islands  and  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River  to  Montreal. 

•'  THANK    GOD  "    NIAGARA     FALLS     IS 
FREE-BORN  AGAIN. 

From  the  first  issue  of  this  little  volume  up  to  the  pres- 
ent I  have  labored  to  inform  the  public  regarding  the  many 
schemes  and  extortions  at  the  Falls ;  been  the  only  chain, 
pion  of  fifty  millions  of  people,  and  with  my  coat  off  and 
sleeves  rolled  up,  worked  for  the  passage  of  the  bill  to  make 
Niagara  Falls  free.  Now,  that  success  has  perched  upon 
our  banners,  we  propose  to  put  the  people  of  Niagara  Falls 
upon  the  stool  of  repentance  on  their  good  behavior  as  it 
were  for  the  season  of  1885-6,  After  that  time,  should  they 
merit  kind  treatment  or  praise  I  shall  be  most  happy  to  say 
so.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  they_  deserve  censure  for  any 
device  or  schemes  to  entrap  the  stranger  or  visitor,  I  shall 
ventilate  it,  and,  as  in  the  past,  handle  them  without  gloves. 

Hoping  the  dear  public  will  sanction  the  charity  I  have 
displayed  and  post  me  regarding  their  treatment  at  the  Falls 
the  coming  season,         I  am  Respectfully  Yours, 

E,  F,  Babbage,  "Phat  Boy," 
21  Chestnut  Park  Rochester,  N.  Y, 

N.  B. — From  the  above  request  to  my  friends  I  received 
during  1885  as  complaints,  five  letters.     No.  i  contained 


%6 

the  complaint  of  an  abuse  that  does  not  exist  at  present.  I 
was  at  the  Falls  June  2d  and  3d,  1886,  and  know  that  the 
Select  men  of  the  village  with  the  aid  of  the  Superintendent 
of  the  Park  for  the  State,  (a  most  worthy  official)  have  taken 
hold  of  and  crushed  out  the  above.  As  the  above  does  not 
continue  there  is  no  need  to  mention  it.  No.  3  complaint 
was  charges  at  a  certain  hotel.  If  I  hear  any  more  will  ven- 
tilate it.  No.  3  would  not  have  been  written  if  the  parties 
had  been  located  at  the  Clifton  House.  Nos.  4  and  5  were 
complaints  regard  ng  the  Indian  stores  and  curiosity  shops, 
over  which  I  have  no  control,  and  for  which  fact  I  am  thank- 
ful, as  there  are  so  many  of  them  good,  bad,  and  indifferent, 
I  have  no  doubt  it  would  be  just  the  same  in  any  large  city 
city  where  any  branch  of  trade  was  carried  on  by  the  same 
number  of  people.  Respectfully  Yours, 

E.  F.  B. 

\i  As   many  of  the   tourists   leave   Niagara  Falls   in   the 

nil,  morning  at  9:05  o'clock  by  rail  to  Lewiston,  and  connect 

with  the  Steamer  Chicora,  for  Toronto,  I  will  mention  the 

places  and  points. 

LEWISTON. 

This  village  is  situated  at  the  head  of  na.-igation,  on  the 
Lower  Niagara,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 
It  lies  three  miles  below  Devil's  Hole,  and  seven  miles  be- 
low the  Falls.  Lewiston  is  a  pleasant,  well  built  village,  but 
its  commercial  prospects  have  been  very  much  injured  by 
the  construction  of  the  Erie  and  Welland  Canals. 


l.''i»r<»a'j«j'i«y.^^*wMi'>.  jttgw.i!.f  www.<i 


'7 


It  at  present.  I 
I  knpw  that  the 

Superintendent 
cial)  have  taken 

above  does  not 
!^o.  3  complaint 
ly  more  will  ven- 
en  if  the  parties 
)s.  4  antl  5  were 

curiosity  shops, 
fact  I  am  thank - 

and  indifferent, 
n  any  large  city 
on  by  the  same 
ly  Yours, 

E.  F.  B. 

a  Falls  in  the 
an,  and  connect 
vill  mention  the 


ivigation,  on  the 
ible  importance, 
seven  miles  be- 
built  village,  but 
much  injured  by 
anals. 


QUEENSTON 

is  a  small  village  situated  nearly  op|)osite  to  I.ewiston,  aiid 
contains  about  350  i.ihabitants.  It  is  associated  in  history 
with  the  gallant  defence  made  by  the  British  on  the  adjacent 
heights  in  the  war  of  1812.  The  village  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated, but  lias  sutTered  from  the  same  causes  that  have  re- 
tarded the  growrii  of  Lewiston.  The  river  here  becomes 
more  trancpiil,  the  shores  less  broken  and  wild,  and  the 
change  in  the  scenery  affords  a  pleasing  transition  from  the 
sublime  to  the  beautiful. 

BROCK'S  MONUMENT. 

The  monument  stands  on  the  Heights  of  Queenston, 
from  whence  the  village  derives  its  name.  The  present 
structure  occupies  the  site  of  the  former  one,  which  was 
blown  up  by  some  miscreant  on  the  17th  of  April,  184 
The  whole  edifice  is  185  feet  high  ;  on  the  sub-base,  which 
is  40  feet  square  and  30  feet  nigh,  are  placed  four  lions, 
facing  North,  South,  East  and  West ;  the  base  of  the  pedes, 
tal  is  21^  feet  square  and  10  feet  high  ;  the  pedestal  itself  is 
16  feet  square  and  10  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  heavy 
cornice,  ornamented  with  lions'  heads  and  wreaths  in  altro 
relievo.  In  ascending  from  the  top  of  the  pedestal  to  the 
top  of  the  base  of  the  shaft,  the  form  changes  from  square 
to  round.  The  shaft  is  a  fluted  column  of  free  stone,  75  feet 
high  and  10  feet  in  diameter,  on  which  stands  a  Corinthian 
capital  10  feet  high,  whereon  is  wrought,  in  relief,  a  statue  of 
the  Goddess  of  War.  On  this  capital  is  the  dome  9  feet 
high,  reached  by  .-50  spiral  steps  from  the  base  on  the  in- 
side. On  the  top  of  the  dome  is  placed  a  colossal  statue  of 
General  Brock. 


m 


i8 


THE  QUEENS  HOTEL 


TORONTO. 


THE  LARGEST  AND  BEST  HOTEL  ^N  THE  CITY. 

Rc-modelcd,  Re-decoratcd  and  Enlarged  for  Season  ot   it<86. 

The  Coolest  Summer  Houee  In  Canada. 

Beautiful  Croquet  and  Lawn  Tennis  Lawne. 

ELECTRIC   BELLS,  ELEVATORS.    BATHS.    ETC. 

N.  B. — This  is  the  safest  Hotel,  as  regards  fires,  in  Canada, 
being  for  the  most  part  but  three  stories  high,  and  sur- 
rounded by  large  open  spaces  upon  all  sides. 


The  residence,  when  iu  the  City,  of  the 

Governor  General 


TIIK  TABLE  IS  UNSURPASSED  IN  CANADA. 

Porters  Meet  all  Boats  and  Trains. 


McGAW  &  WINNETT,  Props. 


ALSO   PBOPBIKTOBS 

QUEENS  HOYAL,         TBCUMSEH  HOUSE, 

NiAOARA,  Out. 


LoNDOH,  Out. 


OTEL 


N  THE  CITY. 

.Scuson  ot  it*86. 
1. 

rennla  Lawne. 

3ATHS,    ETC. 

;  fires,  in  Canatla, 
s  liigh,  and  siir- 
;s. 


of  the 

^ERAL 

CANADA, 
tins. 

,  Props. 


ISBH  HOUSE, 

jONDON,  Ont. 


FORT  NIAGARA. 

This  fort  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  .iver,  on  the 
the  American  side.  There  are  many  interesting  ussociations 
connected  with  this  spot,  as  during  the  early  part  of  the 
past  century,  it  was  the  scene  of  many  severe  conHicts  be- 
tween thf  -.Iiites  and  Indians,  and  sul)se(iuently  between 
tlie  Kn^iish  and  French.  The  names  of  ihe  heroic  La  Salle, 
the  courtly  I)e  Nouville  and  the  gallant  I'rideax  will  long 
retain  a  name  in  the  history  of  this  country.  The  village 
adjacent  to  the  fort  is  called  Youngtown,  in  honor  of  its 
founder,  the  late  John  Young,  Esq. 

NIAGARA, 

is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Ontario  and  was  formerly  the 
capital  of  the  Province.  It  is  situated  where  the  old  town 
of  Newark  stood,  and  is  opposite  to  Youngtown.  It  faces 
the  river  on  one  side  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  trade  of  this 
place  has  been  diverted  to  St.  Catherines  since  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Welland  canal,  and  the  other  towns  upon  the 
Niagara  river  have  suffered  in  common  from  the  same  cause. 

The  Queens  Royal  Hotel  is  located  here,  and  when  I  say 
it  is  run  by  Messrs.  McGaw  &  Winnett  of  the  Queens  Hotel 
at  Toronto,  it  is  enough  in  its  praise.  The  best  Black  Bass 
fishing  on  the  Niagara  River  is  at  this  pcint,  50  Bass  have 
been  caught  in  an  hour  weighmg  from  i  to  5  pounds  each. 

THE  CITY  OF  TORONTO. 

Toronto,  the  capital  city  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is 
situated  on  a  circular  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  was  found- 
ed by  Governor  Simcoe,  in  1794.     The  city  was  formerly 


ao 


THE  ROSSIN  HOUSE, 

TORONTO 


Remodeled  and  Refurnished. 


NEW  PLUMBING  THROUGHOUT. 

The  Most  Complete,  Luxurious,  and  Liber- 
ally Managed  Hotel  in  Ontario. 


Immunity  from  noxious  gases  and  malaria  guaranteed  by 
the  most  perfect  system  of  ventilation,  traps  and  thorough 
plumbing  known  to  sanitary  science. 

MARK  H.  IRISH. 

HENRY  J.  NOLAN,  Proprietor, 

Chief  Clerk. 


OUSE, 


rnished. 


fGHOUT.  :• 

,  and  Liber- 
atari  0. 


ia  guaranteed  by 
ips  and  thorough 

:rish. 

Proprietor, 


21 

called  York.  Toronto  bay  is  a  beautiful  inlet,  separated 
from  the  main  body  of  Lake  Ontario,  except  at  its  entrance 
by  a  long,  narrow  sandy  beach.  The  South- Western  ex- 
tremity is  called  Gibraltar  Point.  It  is  165  miles  from 
Kingston,  45  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  50  miles  from  the 
falls  of  Niagara.  The  population  in  1717  was  1,200;  but 
at  the  present  time  it  amounts  to  about  75,000.  The  city 
is  laid  out  at  right  angles.  Its  chief  public  buildings  are 
the  cathedrals  and  churches,  the  Parliament  House,  Uni- 
versity of  Toronto,  Trinity  College,  Normal  School,  St. 
Michael's  College,  Osgoode  Hall,  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  Me- 
chanics Institute,  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum,  Post-Office, 
Exchange  and  City  Schools.  Its  system  of  free  public  schools 
is  one  of  the  most  perfect  and  best  conducted  in  America. 
Among  the  many  pleasant  drives  around  this  city  the  travel- 
er should  visit  College  Avenue  and  the  Queen's  Park.  In 
this  park  is  erected  a  statue  of  the  Queen  and  3.  monument 
to  commemorate  the  college  youths  who  fell  at  Ridgeway 
defending  the  country  from  the  attacks  of  the  Fenians. 
The  University  of  Toronto,  a  most  magnificent  building,  is 
also  situated  in  this  park.  The  Parliament  of  Ontario  and 
the  principal  law  courts  are  held  in  this  city.  It  is  con- 
nected by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and  steamboats  from 
all  points.  The  two  largest  hotels  in  Toronto  are  the 
Rossin  House  and  the  Queens  Hotel.  These  hotels  have 
every  modern  improvement  and  the  prices  are  graduated 
according  to  the  location  of  room.  If  carriages  are  needed 
while  in  the  city  Telephone  No.  109,  R.  Bond's  Livery,  who 
has  everything  first  class  in  the  carriage  line,  "  A  i." 


i 


23 


PORT  HOPE 

is  situated  65  miles  from  Toronto.  A  small  streaivi,  which 
here  falls  into  the  lake,  has  formed  a  valley,  in  which  the 
town  is  located.  The  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream  is 
shallow,  but  safe  and  commodious.  Port  Hope  is  a  pretty 
town  ;  on  the  western  side  the  hills  rise  gradually  one  above 
the  other.  The  highest  summit,  called  "  Fort  Orton,"  af- 
fords a  fine  prospect,  and  overlooks  the  country  for  a  great 
distance  The  village  is  incorporated ;  population  about 
5,114.  A  direct  route  to  Rochester  by  the  Steamer  Norse- 
man leaves  this  port  ever)'  morning,  except  on  Sunday,  call- 
ing at  Port  Hope  and  connecting  with  Grand  Trunk  train 
from  Toronto  every  week  day  morning  and  arriving  in  Roch- 
ester the  same  afternoon.  The  Grand  Summer  Excursions 
of  the  Norseman  from  Rochester  to  Alexandria  Bay  leaving 
Rochester  every  Saturday  evening  and  passing  through  the 
1,000  Island  sceuery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  arriving  at 
Alexandria  Bay  in  time  for  dinner,  giving  the  passengers 
about  five  hours  at  the  Bay  and  returning  to  Rochester 
early  on  Monday.  I  have  advised  many  of  my  friends  to 
make  this  trip,  all  of  which  have  expressed  themselves  as 
delighted. 

COBOURG. 

seven  miles  below  Port  Hope,  contains  6,000  inhabitants. 
It  has  seven  churches,  two  banks,  three  grist  mills,  two 
founderies,  and  the  largest  cloth  factory  in  the  Province. 
It  is  also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College  and  Theological 
Institute.  Midway  between  Port  Hope  and  Cobourg  is 
"  Duck  Island,"  on  which  a  light  house  is  maintained  by 
the  government. 


23 


II  streaiii,  which 
ey,  in  which  the 
of  this  stream  is 
riope  is  a  pretty 
iuallyone  above 
Fort  Orton,"  af- 
untry  for  a  great 
opulation  about 
Steamer  Norse- 
on  Sunday,  call- 
ind  Trunk  train 
arriving  in  Roch- 
nmer  Excursions 
idria  Bay  leaving 
sing  through  the 
River  arriving  at 
;  the  passengers 
ng  to  Rochester 
of  ray  friends  to 
id  themselves  as 


,000  inhabitants. 

grist  mills,  two 
in  the  Province, 
and   Theological 

and  Cobourg  is 
5  maintained  by 


FOR  THE  BENEFIT  OF  ALL, 

we  submit  the  following  time-table— not  forgetting  to  men- 
tion that  steamboats  are  not  infallible,  but  are  governed  by 
man,  accompanied  by  steam,  wind  and  water.  If  the  boat 
is  one  hour  late  in  starting  from  any  given  point,  it  is  likely 
she  will  remain  so,  as  I  know  of  but  one  boat  in  the  line 
that  can  beat  or  surpass  schedule  time. 

LEAVING   EVERY   DAY — SUNDAYS   EXCEPTED. 

Morrisburg 12:05  P.  M. 


Toronto  (Sunday  Ex- 
cepted)   2:00  p.  M 

Kingston     (  Monday 

Excepted) 5:00  a.m. 

Clayton 6:00    " 

Alexandria  Bay 7:00    " 

Brockville 9:30    " 

Prescott   10:30    " 

Galop  Rapids 11:05    " 

Iroquois 11:35     " 

Narrowest  Point 11:45    " 

Rapid  Piatt 11:55    " 


Chrysler's  Fiirm 12:17 

Aultsviile 12:30 

Fnrren's  Point 12:40 

Dickenson's  Landing. ...12:55 

LongSault 1K)0 

Last  of  U.  8.  shore 1:15 

Cornwall 1:30 

Coteau  Landing 4:00 

Cedar  Rapid 4:30 

Indian  Pilot 6:00 

Montreal 7:00 


We  assume  that  we  are  now  fairly  entering  on  the  ma- 
jestic stream  on  the  Canadian  side,  having  left  Lake  On- 
tario and  entered  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  our  first  landing 
will  be  at 

THE  CITY  OF  KINGSTON, 

which  has  a  population  of  15,000,  was  founded  in  1672,  by 
Governor  DeCourcelles,  receiving  the  name  of  Fort  Cata- 
raqui.  Later,  a  massive  stone  fort  was  built  by  Count  De 
Frontenac,  and  received  his  name.  In  1762  the  place  was 
t  aken  by  the  British,  who  gave  it  its  present  name.     As  a 


24 

place  of  defense  it  stands  next  in  strength  to  Quebec.  The 
batteries  of  Fort  Henry  are  calculated  for  the  reception  of 
numerous  cannon  and  mortars  of  the  largest  calibre.  These, 
together  with  neighboring  rnarlelio  towers,  form  a  formid- 
able defense  against  say  rggrcssive  movement  which  might 
be  directed  against  the  city.  These  fortifications  are  seen 
to  excellent  advantage  from  the  steamer  soon  after  it  leaves 
the  dock. 

On  the  right  is  Garden  Island ;  on  the  left,  Cedar  Island, 
and  behind  is  Fort  Henry.  There  is  here,  also,  in  view,  the 
round  stone  towers  referred  to  above.  Near  the  middle  of 
the  river  is  Wolf,  or  Long  Island,  21  miles  long,  and  7 
miles  wide  near  the  Western  end.  There  is  nothing  either 
of  romance  or  historical  episode  to  weave  into  our  story, 
concerning  the  inhabitants  of  this,  the  largest  of  the  Thou- 
sand Island  group.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  th"  territory  is  a 
portion  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  that  the  habits  of 
civihzed  life  characterize  the  people.  Between  one  channel 
and  the  main  land  there  is  St.  John's  or  Howe  Island,  of  no 
mean  proportions. 

Ordinarily,  we  have  now  spent  about  one  hour  on  the 
steamer  from  Kingston,  and  come  to  the  point  in  the  chan- 
nel wh  -re  we  must  diverge  either  for  Gananoque  or  Clayton. 
We  are  bound  for  Clayton  and  the  American  channel  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  River.  (For  description  of  Gananoque  and 
the  Canadian  channel,  see  Route  of  the  Island  Wanderer, 
old  page  38.)  As  soon  as  the  light-house  on  Burnt  Island 
comes  in  view,  we  may  be  said  to  have  fairly  entered  upon 
the  real  beauty  of  the  "  sacred  river  of  America."  Between 
here  and  Gananoque  we  pass  many  pretty  little  isles  of  six 
or  eight  acres.     On  the  right  is  a  range  light,  the  boat  of 


niiiwM  >jiw^^trti><i:&jar - 


Quebec.  The 
he  reception  of 
alibre.  These, 
form  a  formid- 
nt  which  might 
itions  are  seen 
1  after  it  leaves 

,  Cedar  Island, 
Iso,  in  view,  the 
r  the  middle  of 
;s  long,  and  7 
nothing  either 
into  our  story, 
it  of  the  Thou- 
1"  territory  is  a 
it  the  habits  of 
sn  one  channel 
ire  Island,  of  no 

le  hour  on  the 
nt  in  the  chan- 
que  or  Clayton. 
1  channel  of  the 
rananoque  and 
land  Wanderer, 
n  Burnt  Island 
y  entered  upon 
ica."  Between 
ittle  isles  of  six 
ht,  the  boat  of 


course,  passing  between  the  two.  It  is  said  that  from  the 
deck  of  the  steamer,  one  hundred  islands  can  be  counted — 
in  fact,  the  panorama  is  probably  matchless  on  the  globe. 
While  the  islands  are  so  numerous  both  on  the  right  and 
left,  the^oat  glides  by  without  allow^ing  the  tourist  to  be 
distracted  with  the  rapture  of  delight  that  is  feasting  his  eyes. 
Some  of  these  isles  are  scarcely  more  than  barren  rocks, 
while  others  are  paradises  of  verdure. 

For  the  first  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  leaving  Kings- 
ton, there  is  nothing  especially  worthy  of  note.  Then  we 
strike  the  cross-over  channel.  Now,  the  time  is  early  morn- 
ing, the  sun  is  quite  bright,  and  the  atmosphere  is  remark- 
ably clear.  The  scene  is  now  attractive.  Look  ahead  in 
the  distance  a  little  to  the  left,  and  you  will  behold  the  eagle 
tree.  Hundreds  have  been  deceived  with  the  idea  that  it 
was  an  actual  live  eagle,  spreading  its  wings  and  soaring 
aloft  to  a  height  that  the  imagination  can  scarcely  reach. 
It  is  a  delusion  ;  'tis  nothing  but  a  tree,  as  its  true  features, 
or  rather  beautiful  foliage  has  deceived  the  eye  of  the 
novice  of  this  region. 

On  the  left  is  Grindstone  Island.  On  it  is  an  organized 
community.  The  inhabitants  are  farmers,  and  for  the  edu- 
cation of  whose  children  a  school  is  maintained. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  here  that  authorities  (?)  differ  as 
to  how  many  islands  there  really  are.  Some  say  fifteen 
hundred ;  some  eighteen  hundred,  and  others  carefully  write, 
nearly  two  thousand.  Life  is  too  short  for  us  to  stop  and 
count  these  natural  beauties,  and  even  the  pilots  have  no 
desire  to  earn  fame  as  statisticians  by  asserting  the  correct 
number.     The  "  Phat  Boy  "  has  just  issued  the  only  correct 


'Si 


m 


irtl'Mliij'jlai^.'iin 


^»^^ 


"mm 


a6 

"map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  published,  -.vhicli  will  not 
be  misleading  to  the  student  of  minute  details.  But  we 
digress. 

"DO  YOU  GO  OUT  FISHING?" 

Well  not  often,  you  see  this  ponderous  body  of  nwne  does 
not  fit  the  average  fishing  boat.  My  fears  are  not  all  bound 
up  in  that  one  fact,  nor  in  the  satisfaction  that  if  the  boat 
should  upset  that  I  would  not  sink,  but  the  fear  that  is  in- 
delibly printed  upon  my  mind,  that,  as  I  would  float,  and 
being  so  large,  some  steamboat  captain  or  pilot  would  take 
me  for  an  island,  lay  alongside  and  let  the  passengers  off 
for  a  little  pic-nic  or  an  hour's  pleasure.     Think  of  it. 

"NOT  A  GEORGE  WASH." 

He  had  told  several  very  improbable  stories  bordering 
upon  the  Eli  Perkins  order  and  then  remarked  to  a  friend 
that  he  could  not  tell  a  lie.  But  the  friend  replied,  that  he 
could  the  moment  he  heard  it,  and  to  the  best  of  his  judg- 
ment he  had  told  several. 

Names  of  Islands  that  are  numbered  on  the  Phat  Boy's 
Birdseye  Chart  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  because  the  space  would 
not  permit  printing  the  names  in  full : 


.s.v 

Robinson, 

60.    Devil's  Oven, 

,i4- 

Calumet, 

6 1.    Cherry, 

S6. 

Seven, 

61^.  Southgate,  R.  H., 

.S7. 

Pratt, 

62.    Pullman, 

.S8. 

Wau  Winnet, 

63.    Nobby, 

S9- 

Cuba, 

64.    Welcome, 

i>,W<>  4ij.:iiMinfl>iu«> ..  •iwjiiiiBij«:i*<*i'«*«"'t>'>w<ii*»'''»-"''-^'-'^ 


1,  which  will  not 
Lletails.     But  we 


ING  ?" 

idy  of  tnine  does 
ire  not  all  bound 
that  if  the  boat 
e  fear  that  is  in- 
would  float,  and 
pilot  would  take 
le  passengers  off 
^hink  of  it. 

stories  bordering 

rked  to  a  friend 

replied,  that  he 

best  of  his  judg- 


1  the  Phat  Boy's 
:  the  space  would 

Oven, 

1 

ate,  R.  H., 

.n, 

» 
me, 


i-.-.-t!s?aes'E< 


t? 


6S- 

Triendly, 

109. 

Rattle  Snake, 

66. 

Florence, 

III. 

Round, 

67. 

Linlith  Gow,late  Maud 

,112. 

Poverty, 

68. 

Imperial, 

114. 

Hemlock, 

70. 

Resort, 

115. 

Snipe 

71- 

Deshler, 

116. 

Three  Brothers, 

72. 

Kipp, 

117. 

Half  Way, 

73- 

Terry, 

137- 

Brush, 

75- 

Judge  Donahue, 

139- 

Flat, 

79- 

Proctor, 

141. 

Round  Top, 

80. 

Pike, 

142. 

Indian  Chief, 

81. 

Idlewild, 

143- 

Pine  Tree, 

82. 

Little  Lehigh, 

144. 

Middle, 

83. 

Sport, 

145- 

Big, 

84. 
85- 

I  Summer  Land  Group,  ^'* 
i                                        147- 

Shoemakers, 
Bill  Berry, 

86. 

Arcada, 

148. 

Raspberry, 

88. 

Schooner, 

149. 

Bush, 

94. 

Snake, 

150- 

Coles  and  Smith, 

95- 

Float, 

151- 

H.  A.  Fields, 

96. 

Milk, 

160. 

Melville, 

97- 

Sugar, 

163. 

Dixon, 

100. 

Wallace, 

164. 

McGraw, 

lOI. 

Walton  Lotis'  Land, 

165. 

Sears, 

102. 

Deer, 

166. 

Benedict, 

107. 

Hoopers, 

167. 

Ruycraft, 

108. 

Shanter, 

169. 

Deniston. 

Having  already  intimated  that  there  are  other  routes 
which  lead  to  the  point  in  the  river  which  we  have  now 
reached,  we  return  westward  to  bring  another  party  through 
the  American  channel. 


i  t 


ifWWiiMPMIIVO 
-I,     ..("S 


aS 

YOU  KNOW  HER. 

She  is  one  of  the  strong  minded  of  the  female  sex,  and 
generally  has  her  own  way  in  everything.  At  any  rate  she 
stands  reg^ly  at  any  and  all  times  to  combat  with  any  one 
of  the  lords  of  creation,  or  otherwise,  who  may  dispute  her 
sway.  We  prefer  your  imagination  to  fill  in  as  a  descrip- 
tion, because  it  would  be  next  to  an  impossibility  for  me  to. 
She  has  all  the  requisites :  the  thin,  tall  figure,  the  hatchet 
face,  sharp  nose,  wears  glasses,  and  always  carries  an  um- 
brella. About  one  each  day  will  pass  down  this  route  in 
Summer,  except  when  an  Eastern  or  Western  Excursion 
comes  ;  then  it  will  be  hard  tfi  select  those  who  are  not  of 
her  kind.  The  first  object  that  strikes  the  eye  is  our  manly 
figure.  After  looking  it  well  over,  she  remembers  that  fat 
people  are  proverbially  jolly  and  good  natured,  so  she  breaks 
into  conversation,  and  about  ihe  first  question  she  asks  is : 
"  Were  you  always  as  large  as  you  are  now  ^^  "  Oh !  Yes. 
I  was  born  this  size."  The  answer  causes  her  to  discover 
she  has  left  out  the  word  "  proportion."  So  she  apologizes, 
smiles  for  the  first  time,  and  we  are  friends  for  the  trip. 

CLAYTON 

is  in  the  American  channel.  In  the  distant  front,  just  be- 
fore landing,  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Prospect  Park 
and  hill,  a  delig'mml  spot  for  recreation  and  pleasure.  No 
better  view  can  be  had  of  the  islands  and  surrounding 
country  than  from  the  eminence  of  the  hill.  Clayton  is  our 
first  stopping  place.  It  is  a  village  that  derives  its  impor- 
tance to  tourists  as  being  the  terminus  of  the  Utica  and 
Black  River  Railroad,  and  here  it  is  where  passengers  from 


■'«jMi»iiiim"'U'i'i''m'».  I  iiiii»>iilW'ini'<iui«"t'W^"«»«,W 


^MM 


female  sex,  and 
At  any  rate  she 
t  with  any  one 
may  dispute  her 

in  as  a  descrip- 
ibiHty  for  me  to. 
are,  the  hatchet 

carries  an  um- 
'n  this  route  in 
stem  Excursion 
:  who  are  not  of 
eye  is  our  manly 
lembers  that  fat 
;d,  so  she  breaks 
Lion  she  asks  is  : 
"■'    "  Oh!  Yes. 

her  to  discover 
>  she  apologizes, 
for  the  trip. 


t  front,  just  be- 
f  Prospect  Park 
1  pleasure.  No 
nd  surrounding 
Clayton  is  our 
;rives  its  impor- 
f  the  Utica  and 
passengers  from 


99 

the  East  generally  get  their  first  glimpse  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. There  are  three  good  hotels,  the  Hubbard,  Walton 
and  The  West  End  Hotels,  kept  by  as  genial  landlords  as 
ever  lived,  and  from  the  town  many  fishing  parties  go  out 
daily.  TiiC  steamer  J.  F.  Maynard  runs  from  this  port  m 
connection  with  the  above  named  railroads  for  Alexandria 
Bay  and  other  landing  places  en  route.  Opposite  Clayton, 
on  the  left  as  we  proceed  down  the  river,  is  Governor  Island, 
owned  by  Hon.  Thomas.  G.  Al.ord,  of  Syracuse.  Next  to 
Gov.  Alvord's  Isle  on  left  is  Calumet,  five  acres,  owned  by 
Chas.  G.  Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarette  and  tobacco  fame, 
who  has  lavishly  expended  a  large  amount  of  money  for 
comfoii.  His  villa  and  apartments  are  quite  striking,  hav- 
ing 1,000  feet  of  dockage  and  a  stone  wall  all  around  the 
island,  4,300  feet — the  only  island  having  an  elevation  of 
35  feet  and  a  perfect  soil,  all  productive.  He  purchased 
the  steam  yacht  Calumet,  said  to  be  the  fastest  yacht  on  the 
river.  The  next  island  on  the  left,  about  200  yards  distant, 
is  Powder  Horn.  The  origin  of  this  "euphonious"  name 
has  not  been  handed  down  by  tradition.  On  the  right  is 
Washington  Island ;  en  the  left,  nearly  ojiposite,  is  Bluff 
Island,  and  behind  which  is  Robin's  Island,  Next,  on  the 
right,  over  two  miles  from  Clayton,  is 

POUND  ISLAND 

and  park.  This  is  the  property  of  the  Baptist  Association, 
and  every  year  people  of  this  persuasion  in  large  numbers 
gather  for  religious  worship  and  recreation.  There  is  a 
temperance  hotel,  fitted  with  the  modern  appointments,  for 
the  accommodation  of  300  guests,  named  the  Round  Island 
House.     The  docks  are  in  excellent  condition,  and  the  fish- 


||MtHiK:\"<i» 


30 

ing  boats  are  favorites.  On  the  left  is  Little  Roiiiul  Island, 
and  "  Hog's  Back."  We  have  now  several  cottages  in 
view  ;  the  one  painted  dark  brown  is  owned  by  Mr.  Har- 
bodle.  On  the  point  is  Ethelridge  cottage,  and  many 
others  not  known  to  me,  as  they  spring  up  as  quickly  as 
mushrooms  do  in  an  open  field. 

Leaving  Round  Island,  and  looking  in  the  distant  front, 
we  have  a  view  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park.  About  one 
mile  from  Round  Island,  on  the  right,  is  Watch  Island  or 
"  Indolence,"  owned  by  S.  T.  Skinner.  On  the  left  are 
Bluff,  Maple  and  Hemlock,  the  three  pretty  islands  fronting 
the  foot  of  Grindstone  Island.  On  Hemlock  is  the  Cliff 
House,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison,  of  Syracuse.  About  five 
minutes  after  leaving  Round  Island,  we  come  in  sight  of 
Hub  Island  and  House,  burned  in  March,  1884,  which  lie 
on  the  left ;  Grinnell's  Island  and  House  ;  Otsego  Camp  is 
also  on  the  left.  On  the  right  is  Fisher's  landing,  Robinson's 
island,  owned  by  Eugene  Robinson,  New  York  banker  and 
broker  (he  broke  Drew),  Johnson's  Light,  Washburn  Island 
and  Frederick  Island.  Mr.  Johnson,  the  original  light- 
house keeper,  and  after  whom  the  island  is  named,  was  the 
man  who  burned  the  Rober  Peel,  the  English  vessel,  in 
retaliation  for  sending  the  Carolina  over  Niagara  Falls. 

Just  before  landing  at  Thousand  Island  Park,  upper  end 
of  Well's  Island,  now  called  Wellesley  Island,  is  Twin  Island, 
owned  by  J.  L.  Huntingtou.  On  the  left,  and  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  is  the  bath  house,  in  a 
dilapidated  condition,  where  the  Methodists  can  get  bap- 
tism, a  la  Bob  Ingersoll,  with  soap.  Said  to  be  good  for 
this  world,  if  not  hereafter.     W^e  now  land  at 


.|('*l'J«>l.*'!-!tA«i<>Wl^»'»<l' 


,iiiniiiiiiiiiii»i(tM>i>i'><fa»i>%fo1U.'>iil'!'i^»»jMtittej4 


3« 


le  Roiiiul  Island, 
eral  cottages  in 
ned  by  Mr.  Har- 
tage,  and  many 
uj)  as  quickly  as 

the  distant  front, 
ark.  About  one 
Watch  Island  or 
On  the  left  are 
y  islands  fronting 
ilock  is  the  Cliff 
use.  About  five 
come  in  sight  of 
I,  1884,  which  lie 
Otsego  Camp  is 
iding,  Robinson's 
York  banker  and 
Washburn  Island 
\\e  original  light- 
s  named,  was  the 
English  vessel,  in 
Hagara  Falls. 

I  Park,  upper  end 
id,  is  Twin  Island, 
,  and  in  connec- 
:  bath  house,  in  a 
sts  can  get  bap- 
1  to  be  good  for 
lat 


THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 

The  boat  stops  at  the  Western  End  of  Wells  Island,  at  a 
fine  wharf,  and  close  to  a  large  number  of  handsome  cot- 
tages. You  can  tell  what  the  place  is  the  moment  you 
approach  it.  There  is  no  mistaking  a  Methodist  Summer 
Camp,  find  it  where  you  will.  It  is  always  neat  and  clean 
aud  orderly.  This  is  the  Thousand  Island  I'ark,  a  Metho- 
dist resort,  opened  in  1873.  Although  the  scenery  is  some- 
what marred  by  the  great  number  of  solemn-faced  clergy- 
men strolling  about  the  grounds,  it  is  still  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  to  be  found  among  the  islands.  Camp- 
meetings  are  held  here  ;  also  Sunday  school  and  temperance 
and  educational  conventions,  and  other  meetings  all  through 
the  summer.  A  large  and  spacious  hotel,  completed,  was 
opened  July  loth,  1883.  The  name  was  originally  Thous- 
and Island  Camp  (Jround,  but  was  changed  in  1878  to  its 
present  name. 

Again  on  our  way,  the  first  house  on  the  left  is  owned  by 
Harlow  J.  Remington,  Ilion,  whose  fame  and  fortune  is  in 
rifles.  Next  on  the  left  is  Wellesley  House  and  beautiful 
cottage.  On  the  right,  handsome  villas  line  the  shore  of 
the  island.  About  half  a  mile  from  Wellesley  House  is 
Jolly  Oak  Point,  with  its  four  cottages,  two  owned  by  the 
Norton  brothers,  a  third  by  Dr.  Ferguson,  and  the  fourth 
by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butterfield,  of  Redwood.  From  here  to 
Lookout  Point  is  about  half  a  mile ;  and  next  is  Rood's 
place,  with  a  fine  dock  and  good  accommodations  for  tour- 
ists. About  two  hundred  yards  below  is  Peel's  dock,  where 
the  boat  Robert  Peel  was  burned  in  1837.  This  dock  was 
rebuilt  in  1884.     Robin's  cottage,  too  feet   to  the  left ;  a 


i 


l6*»teiiSS*"p" 


3« 

little  l)clow  on  the  right  is  the  farm  of  Captain  Jack  ;  yoit 
can  see  the  old  saw  mill  in  a  dilapidated  condition  on  the 
bank.  Opj)08ite  on  the  left  is  the  celebrated  Limburger 
cheese  factory.  (Post  mortem  examinations  held  here 
weekly.)  (This  "  goak"  would  take  better  if  yon  was  just 
introduced  to  Limburger  for  the  first  time.)  On  the  right 
is  Colhns'  dock  ;  below  a  few  feet  is  Calumet  Island  and 
cottage,  owned  by  Rev.  Henry  G.  Waite,  of  Ilion,  N.  Y. 
On  ihe  right  lies  the  remains  of  old  Captain  Jack's  boat, 
gone  to  rest.  *  •  •  Here  you  are  expected  to  drop  a 
tear  Brown's  Bay  on  the  left  and  Swan  Bay  on  the  right. 
The  next  island  on  the  right  is  owned  by  Mr.  Moffet,  of 
Watertown,  N.  Y.  Passing  the  bays,  we  come  on  the  right 
to  Central  Park,  formerly  drinnell's  Point  and  parade 
ground,  purchased  by  parties  and  laid  out  for  a  park.  Sev- 
eral large  and  beautiful  cottages  were  built  last  season  and 
many  contem|)lated  for  this  season.  Foot  of  Central  Park 
is  Page  Point,  a  former  wood  station  for  the  N.  T.  Co.'s 
line  of  steamers.     On  the  right  is 

POINT  VIVIAN. 

Point  Vivian  is  situated  on  the  main  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  about  2^  miles  from  Alexandria  Bay.  It 
was  formerly  owned  by  Capt.  W.  H.  Houghton,  and  was 
purchased  by  Messrs.  Geo.  Ivers,  John  J.  Kinney,  Isaac  A. 
Wood,  Dr.  L.  E.  Jones,  R.  Barnes,  Rezot  Tozer  and  E. 
Hungerford,  in  the  fall  of  1877  (all  of  Evans  Mills,  N.  Y.) 
They  had  it  surveyed  into  forty  building  lots,  with  parks, 
avenues  and  streets.  A  magnificent  dock  was  built  200 
feet  long,  and  any  boat  from  a  skiti  to  an  ocean  steamer 
can  land  here. 


'W»J**i'"'H('JI,'i'i  ijliMi'iUAjJ' 


IWW" 


ptain  Jack  ;  yoit 
:onclition  on  the 
rated  Limburger 
itions  held  here 
r  if  yon  was  just 
.)  On  the  right 
imet  Island  uml 
,  of  nion,  N.  Y. 
ain  Jack's  boat, 
pected  to  drop  a 
Jay  on  the  right. 
y  Mr.  Moffet,  of 
:ome  on  the  right 
oint  and  parade 
for  a  park.  Sev- 
t  last  season  and 
t  of  Central  Park 
the  N.  T.  Co.'» 


shore  of  the  St. 
;xandria  Bay.  It 
3ughton,  and  was 
Kinney,  Isaac  A. 
zot  Tozer  and  E. 
-ans  Mills,  N.  Y.) 
;  lots,  with  parks, 
:k  was  built  200 
n  ocean  steamer 


S3 

Point  Vivian  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  resorts  on  the 
river ;  here  every  one  throws  off  all  business  cares,  sitting 
under  the  wide  spreading  branches  of  the  fragrant  pine, 
watching  sail  and  steam  crafts  passing  up  or  down  this 
beautiful  queen  of  rivers.  It  is  situated  in  what  is  known 
as  the  narrows  and  is  noted  for  its  fine  fishing  grounds. 
The  boss  fisherman  on  the  point  is  Tozer.  He  a|)pears  to 
have  a  charm  (we  don't  know  where,  but  we  know  he  has 
one),  and  when  he  launches  his  barque  the  fish  swarm 
around  and  just  ask  to  be  "  tuk  in,"  and  are  always  took. 

The  following  named  persons  together  with  the  original 
purchasers  have  built  cottages  here  : 

R.  Rodeniuirst,  Theresa,  N.  Y. 
Mrs.  Chadwick,  'I'heresa,  N.  Y. 
C.  Allen,  Theresa,  N.  Y. 
Sidney  Cooper,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
C.  Young,  Syracuse,  N.  Y.. 
L.  Sharon,  Sterlingville,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  Aldrich,  Sterlingville,  N.  Y. 
M.  Horton,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
Taylor,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
W.  S.  Cooper,  Evans  Mills. 
E.  O.  Hungerford,  Evans  Mills. 
A.  M.  Cook,  Evans  Mills. 
C.  Briant,  Evans  Mills. 
E.  Hungerford,  Evans  Mills. 
Whitney  &  Kinney,  Gouverneur. 
L.  Smith,  Gouverneur. 

Several  gentlemen   from   Watertown  have  purchased  a 
number  of  lots  adjoining  and  have  been  incorporated  with 


'  m! 


wtm 


34 

the  point.  The  management  intends  to  add  some  valuable 
improvements  the  coming  season,  grading  the  streets  and 
avenues,  building  a  large  ice  house,  putting  up  wind  mill, 
&c.  There  are  a  few  more  desirable  lots  for  sale  on  this 
point,  those  contemplating  building  on  the  river  would  do 
well  to  visit  this  famous  resort.    Connected  with  this  point  is 

LONG  POINT, 

owned  by  Mr.  Curtis  of  Cleveland,  Ohio.  He  has  erected  a 
nice  cottage  thereon,  where  he  spends  his  sumiher.  Curtis 
is  a  "prince  of  good  fellows,"  and  the  pointers  reckon  on 
him  as  one  of  'em. 

The  officers  are : 

W.  S.  Cooper,  President. 

Sidney  Cooper,  R.  Rodenhurst,  John  J.  Kinney,  Trus- 
tees. 

W.  M.  Comstock,  Secretary. 

Opposite  Point  Vivian  on  the  left  is  Island  Royal,  owned 
by  Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New  York,  firm  of  Bramall,  Deane 
^  Co.  Mr.  Deane  is  a  very  enthusiastic  lover  of  the  scenery 
as  well  as  the  hunting  and  fishing  in  this  vicinity,  coming  to 
this,  his  summer  home,  quite  early  in  the  spring,  and  often 
remaining  until  winter  fairly  sets  in,  for  no  where  else  can 
he  get  such  a  vt-riety  of  fish  and  game  and  have  the  sur- 
roundings so  agreeable. 

After  leaving  point  Vivian,  on  the  right,  is  Curtis  Point 
and  cottage.  The  next  is  Alleghaney  Point,  owmxl  by  J. 
S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburg,  Pa.  The  fence  was  built  to  keep 
the  cl.  Idren  from  falling  into  the  river.  Next  on  the  right 
is  Keppler  Point,  Beula  Vista  Lodge,  owned  by  F.  A.  Bos- 
worth,  oi  ^Milwaukee,  Wis.     He  is  an  invalid,  and  has  not 


.jji|i<l|  ii.iH,  Ii>l,  iiLi!H!«u  WW* 


'.M!J;lf3ll'f.l!l 


*«- 


iWSP^ 


Id  some  valuable 
the  streets  ami 
ng  up  wind  mill, 
1  for  sale  on  this 
e  river  would  do 
with  this  point  is 


He  has  erected  a 
sumiVier.  Curtis 
inters  reckon  on 


f.   Kinney,  Trus- 


md  Royal,  owned 
Bramall,  Deane 
fer  of  the  scenery 
icinity,  coming  to 
spring,  and  often 
lo  where  else  can 
and  have  the  sur- 

:,  is  Curtis  Point 
lint,  owned  by  J. 
as  built  to  keep 
Next  on  the  right 
led  by  F.  A.  Bos- 
ilid,  and  has  not 


35 

been  home  for  ten  years,  says  he  will  not  return  home  until 
he  can  walk.  I  am  pleased  to  say  he  told  a  friend  of  mine 
that  his  stay  of  three  months  here  was  of  more  benefit  to 
him  than  a  tour  through  Europe.  He  died  in  1885.  Cen- 
tennial Isle  is  owned  by  Mr.  Sissons,  of  V^^atertown,  N.  Y. 
Comfort,  in  close  proximity  is  owned  by  A.  S  Clark,  of  the 
Chicago,  111.,  Board  of  Trade.  His  is  the  largest  and  finest 
cottage  of  the  group.  Beyond  is  Hills  Island,  also  Devil's 
Rock  and  Oven.  This  gentleman  has  expended  a  large 
amount  of  money  in  building  a  stone  wall  around  the  same, 
and  in  many  ways  beautifying  the  surroundings.  On  the 
left  is  Winslow  Point  and  Seven  Isles.  Beyond  is  Louisiana 
Point  owned  by  Judge  La  Batte,  of  New  Orleans.  Next  on 
the  right  is  Warner's  Isle,  very  much  on  the  dilapidated  or- 
der. On  the  right  is  Cuba  Isle,  owned  by  W.  F.  Storey,  of 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.  A  little  further  on  is  Edgewood  Park,  owned 
by  a  Cleveland  Stock  Company,  who  contemplate  many 
changes  the  coming  season,  and  Edgewood  Cottage,  owned 
by  G.  C.  Martin  of  VVatertown,  N.  Y.  Next  on  the  right  is 
Cherry  Isle,  upon  which  are  erected  several  cottages,  one  is 
owned  by  Rev.  George  Rockwell,  of  Fulton,  N.  Y.,  and  oc- 
cupied by  Mr.  Easton  and  family,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.;  he 
was  the  first  pastor  of  the  Reformed  Church  of  Alexandria 
Bay.  The  two  large  cottages  are  owned  by  A.  B.  Pullman, 
and  G.  B.  Marsh,  of  Chicago,  111., — named  Ingleside  and 
Melrose  Lodge.  Here  the  Hon.  John  A.  Logan  and  wife 
were  entertained  for  several  days  in  1885.  Opposite  on  the 
left  is  Pullman,  Nobby,  Friendly,  Rye,  Welcome,  Florence, 
Imperial  and  Linlith  Gow.  This  group  may  he  seen  in  .he 
order  given,  beyond  is  Westminster  Park,  Hart's  T^land, 
Fairy  Land  and  Dishler.  We  now  shoot  into  Alexandria 
Bay. 


"feis 


lllfiJU'lMIW 


36 


THE  THOUSAND  ISLAND  HOUSE, 


Situated  on  tlu:  Kive.-  St  Lawrence,  at  Alexandria  Bay,  Jefferson 
County,  New  York,  and  in  tiie  iiume'Uate  vicinity  of  tlie  far-famed 


THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


The 


The  very  Mecca  of  Pleiwure-Seelters.    The  Centre  of  Gravity, 
pivot  up<in  which  revolves  everytliing. 

This  House  contains  all  the  nuKlern  improvements,  with  elevator. 
Booms  single  or  en  suite,  with  bath  rooms  and  closets  attached,  and 
everything  that  cm  add  to  the  comfort  or  convenience  of  the  giiesls. 
Tlie  house  has  been  remodeled,  a  new  porch  built,  and  re-painted 
for  1886. 

Travelers  will  find  this  place  as  healthful  as  it  is  beautiful,  with  no 
mosfiuitoes  or  chills  and  fever,  while  to  the  finest  scenery  in  the  world 
are  added  to  tlie  attractions  of 

BOATING,  FISHING,  HUNTING  AND  BATHING, 

AS  WELL   As 

BILLIARDS,  ROWLING  ALLEY,  CRtK^UET  GROUNDS,  Etc. 

Parties  taking  rooms  for  the  ■  i.  >•  will  find  liberal  deductions 
from  regular  rates.    Send  fur  pt.'     '•■■  irUk  terms,  etc. 

At  this  Hotel  was  held  the  B;..  »•  itdered  Presit'ent  Arthur,  in 

October,  1882. 

R.  H.  SOL.  .<  GATE,  President, 

Alexandria  Bay,  New  York. 
^HAS.  P.  CLEMES,  Manager, 

Late  of  Murray  HUl,  and  Hotel  Brunswick,  N.  Y. 


37 


Iria  Bay,  Jefferson 
ty  of  the  far-famed 

^NDS. 

B  of  Gravity.    The 

ling. 

lent.'*,  witli  elevator. 

losets  attached,  and 

ienee  of  the  gtiesls. 

lilt,  and  re-painted 

s  beautiful,  with  no 
■cenerv  in  the  world 


D  BATHING, 

'  GROUNDS,  Etc. 
liberal  deductions 
•fe. 
resit'ent  Arthur,  in 

President, 
Jay,  New  York. 

IruDBwick,  N.  Y. 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

which  is  three  or  four  miles  long,  and  oneand-a-half  miles 
wide,  reaching  from  the  shore,  on  the  American  side,  to 
Wells  Island.  The  chief  feature  around  here  is  the  grand 
hotels — the  largest  known  as  the  Thousand  Island  House  ; 
the  finest  building  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  From  the 
Bay  fishing  parties  are  constantly  going  out.  The  channels 
about  the  islands  are  the  Paradise  of  fishermen.  The  boats 
are  the  most  convenient  and  comfortable  in  the  world,  the 
boatmen  the  most  accommodating,  and  the  pickerel,  pike 
and  gamey  black  bass  and  rock  bass,  and  muscalonge,  in 
the  greatest  abundance. 

ROUTE  OF   THE   STEAMER   ISLAND 
WANDERER. 

Leaving  Cornwall  Bros',  wharf  every  morning  at  8 
o'clock  and  every  afternoon  at  2.15  for  a  tour  among 
the  Islands  with  the  Wanderer.  On  the  right,  before 
leaving  may  be  seen  Hart's  Island  ;  next  on  the  right 
is  Westminster  Park,  with  its  long  wharf  and  dock  ;  a 
little  further,  hid  by  a  cluster  of  trees,  is  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Hunter.  Imperial  Island  is  the  next  on  the  right  of 
imi)ortance ;  then  comes  Florence,  Welcome,  Rye,  Friendly, 
Nobby  and  Pullman.  The  first  island  on  the  left  after 
leaving  the  dock  is  the  Little  Southgate.  Up  the  Bay,  on 
the  left  is  Edgewood  Cottage  and  Park,  also  Otter  Creek ; 
next  on  the  left  is  Cherry  Island,  Melrose  Lodge  and  Ingle- 
side.  At  this  point  is  where  Mr.  C  B.  Marsh  and  A.  B. 
Pullman,  of  Chicago,  III,  entertained  Hon.  John  A.  Logan 
and  wife  in  1885.     The  two  Achres  at  the  upper  end  of 


"'J.     '      •!■?••    ••    '. 


mmm 


38 

Cherry  Island  is  owned  by  Rev.  George  Rockwell  and 
occupied  by  Mr.  J.  T.  Easton,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  Next 
island  on  left,  Devil's  Rock  and  Oven ;  a  little  be- 
yond is  Cuba,  owned  by  W.  S.  Story,  of  Buffalo  j  a 
little  above  on  the  left  is  VVau  Winnet,  owned  by  Mr. 
Hill,  of  Chicago,  III.  Next,  on  the  left,  we  pass  very 
close  to  Warner's  Isle  (a  little  dilapidated).  The  next 
above,  about  three  hundred  feet,  is  Comfort  Isle, 
owned  by  A.  E.  Clark,  of  the  Chicago  Produce  Exchange. 
Neh-Mahbin  joins  Comfort  by  a  bridge.  On  the  right  is 
Louisiana  Point,  owned  by  Judge  La  Batte,  of  New 
Orleans,  La.,  who  died  about  one  year  ago.  A  little  above, 
on  the  left,  is  K  ?pler  Point  and  cottage  ;  a  little  above  is 
Brown's  Bay ;  a  little  above,  on  the  left,  Alleghany  Point 
and  cottage,  owned  by  Mr.  Lahney,  of  Pittsburg,  Pa.  ;  a 
little  above,  on  the  left,  is  Curtis  Point  and  cottage,  owned 
by  Mr.  Curtis,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio.  A  bridge  connects  him 
with  ex-Mayor  Rose's  Island,  who  has  just  built  a  very 
handsome  cottage  and  dock.  Next  on  the  left  is  Point 
Vivian  ;  beyond  is  Brown's  cottage;  opposite,  on  the  right, 
is  Island  Royal,  owned  by  Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New  York. 
The  next  island  has  always  been  a  favorite  place  for  camp- 
ers. Nothing  right  or  left  for  about  one  mile.  We  then 
arrive  at  Central  Park,  which  has  very  many  beautiful  cot- 
tages and  hotel.  Island  head  of  Central  Park  is  owned  by 
Mr.  Moffatt,  of  Watertown  ;  opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Palisa 
de  Point  and  handsome  cottage — a  great  point  for  campers. 
After  leaving  the  Bay,  on  tiie  left  is  a  cottage  owned  by 
Mr.  Webb.  A  little  beyond,  on  the  left,  is  Capt.  Jack's 
farm-house  and  old  mill ;  opposite  is  Limburger  cheese 
factory  (we  do  not  get  close  enough  to  interfere  with  your 


mtm»M:-jm'!iK!m^:il!M.mim^f!-i, 


mmm 


i  Rockwell  and 
i^n,  N.  Y.  Next 
1 ;    a   little    be- 

of  Buffalo ;    a 

owned  by  Mr. 
t,  we  pass  very 
ed).     The  next 

Comfort  Isle, 
iuce  Exchange. 
On  the  right  is 
Batte,    of    New 

A  little  above, 
a  little  above  is 
iMleghany  Point 
ttsburg.   Pa.  ;  a 

cottage,  owned 
;e  connects  him 
ist  built  a  very 
le  left  is  Point 
te,  on  the  right, 
,  of  New  York, 
place  for  camp- 
mile.  We  then 
y  beautiful  cot- 
.rk  is  owned  by 
;  right,  is  Palisa 
lint  for  campers, 
tage  owned  by 
is  Capt.  Jack's 
nburger  cheese 
rfere  with  your 


39 

sense  of  smell ;  keep  your  seat).     Opposite  is  a  brown  cot- 
tage and  bridge ;  a  little  farther  on  is  a  farm  and  house  ;  on 
the  right  is  Lookout  Point  and  cottage.     The  barns  look 
as  if  some  thrifty  and   prosperous   farmer   resided  there. 
Just  beyond  is  Jolly  Oaks  and  its  four  cottages ;  Sans  Souci 
and  others,  with  camping  parties,  line  the  shore  until  we 
come  to  Wellsley  House ;  on  the  left  is  Fisher's  Landing, 
Cedar,  Hemlock  and  Robinson's  Island,  on  the  left  beyond 
which  is  Johnson's  light  and  cottage ;  a  little  beyond  is 
Thousand  Island  Park,  with  its  magnificent  hotel,  hundreds 
of  cottages  boats   and   boat-houses.     This   is  run  by  the 
Methodists.     In  the  distance  front,  on  the  left,  is  Round 
Island  Hotel,  and  splendid  villas  line  the  banks  all  round 
the  island,  which  is  owned  by  the  Baptist's  Association.     In 
the  distance  is  Clayton,  in   front  of  which  is  Gouverner's 
Island,  owned  by  Gov.  Alvord,  and  Calumet,  owned  by  Mr. 
Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarrette  fame.     On  the  left  is  Gren- 
nell  and  Twin   Island.     The  steamer       )ps  at  Thousand 
Island  Park  to  take  what  is  generally  considered  half  the 
passengers  which  constitutes  her  load.     Again,  on  our  way 
we  pass  around  the  head  of  Wells  Island,  and  have  a  view 
on  the  right  of  the  finest  avenue  in  the  Park,  a  long  line  of 
boat-houses,  and  a  number  of  steam  yachts,  sail  and  fishing 
boats,  windmills,  etc.,  etc.     Beyond,  on  the  right,  is  Hem- 
lock Island  and  Hotel,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison,  of  Syra- 
cuse.    On  the  left  is  Grennell's  Island  and  house,  where 
the   boat  stops  for  passengers;  beyond,  on  the  right,  is 
Otsego  Point  and  cottages.     We  next  pass  two  cottages, 
after  which  Picton  Isle.     Beyond  is  Eel  Bay ;  on  the  left, 
beneath  the  brow  of  the  hill,  is  where  the  American  Canoe 
Club  holds  in  annual  convention.     On  Grindstone  Island, 


I 


fela^»r 


■ 


IPI 


40 

which  is  in  Jefferson  County,  N.  Y.,  there  are  500  inhabi- 
tants on  the  island,  all  Republicans.  They,  however,  all 
voted  the  Democratic  ticket  Presidential  year,  which  elected 
Cleveland.  After  leaving  Grindstone  Island  we  cross  the 
boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  after 
which  we  arrive  at  many  very  pretty  islands,  on  the  right  as 
well  as  on  the  left. 

AMONG  THE  ISLANDS; 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  hundreds  of  Islands 
are  all  occupied  and  have  cottages  on  them,  or  laid  out 
with  walks  and  fountains.  For  every  island  that  has  a 
house  on  it  there  are  perhaps  twenty  that  have  none.  The 
number  of  houses  are  increasing  every  year,  and  I  think 
that  in  time  nearly  every  island  will  be  occupied  in  the 
Canadian  channel  as  they  are  in  the  American. 

On  the  left  is  Darling's  dock,  the  famous  wood  station. 
We  have  as  yet  never  seeen  the  "  Darling,"  although  the 
dock  is  always  visible.  It  may  be  she  is  busy  in  the  pantry 
washing  dishes. 

GANANOQUE. 

Here  the  captam  announces  a  stay  of  twenty-five  minutes 
for  refreshments,  remarking  also  that  it  takes  twelve 
minutes  to  walk  up  town  and  twelve  minutes  back,  with  the 
remainder  for  refresh,  which  seems  to  my  mind  a  little  too 
fresh.  Leaving  Gananoque  on  time,  we  will  return  by  the 
Canadian  channel,  which  is  more  wild  and  picturesque,  as 
fai-  as  scenery  is  concerned,  although  not  one  island  or 
point  is  inhabited  here  to  ten  in  the  American  channel. 


mmmtmm-mmim.  ■■•^.aisMgMAimSiMi" 


are  500  inhabi- 
ey,  however,  all 
r,  which  elected 
d  we  cross  the 
id  Canada,  after 
on  the  right  as 


Ireds  of  Islands 
:m,  or  laid  out 
nd  that  has  a 
Lve  none.  The 
ir,  and  I  think 
iccupied  in  the 
an. 

s  wood  station. 
"  although  the 
>y  in  the  pantry 


ty-five  minutes 
takes  twelve 
back,  with  the 
nd  a  little  too 
1  return  by  the 
picturesque,  as 
one  island  or 
rican  channel. 


JJfe,lJ»'JWiftgMrt?'t-' 


41 

On  the  right  is  Kipp  Island.  Passing  many  beautiful 
islands  and  lighthouse,  we  arrive  at  Halstead's  Bay — after 
passing  which  the  islands  come  thick  and  fast,  all  sizes  and 
shapes,  from  a  little  one  for  a  cent  to  those  done  up  in 
bunches  like  asparagus,  and  you  get  a  bunch  for  five.  We 
soon  arrive  at  Lind  Light,  on  the  right,  and  are  coming  to 
the  Fiddler's  Elbo.v:  Lay  this  book  aside  at  this  point  and 
feast  the  eye,  for  no  one  could  do  the  subject  of  a  descrip- 
tion justice.  We  soon  emerge  from  our  land,  or  island- 
locked,  channel,  and  approach  Darling's  dock.  The  dock 
is  visible,  but  we  have  never  seen  the  darling — after 
which  com*  Echo  Point,  where  you  can  hear  as  many 
echoes  as  you  pay  cents  fare.  Passing  a  farm  house  on 
the  right,  we  soon  arrive  on  the  left  to  Rockport ;  here 
you  will  observe  we  have  but  two  seasons  of  the  year.  Ice 
and  Rock  ;  this  is  the  rocky  season.  Turning  to  the  right, 
we  make  direct  for  Westminster  Park.  Looking  backward 
over  the  left  shoulder,  you  will  have  a  view  of  Idlewild  and 
Sport  Islands,  owned  by  the  Packers,  of  Pennsylvania.  A 
better  view  of  those  islands  may  be  obtained  after  leaving 
Westminster  Park  for  Alexandria  Bay.  After  passing  the 
point,  Hayden's  Island,  Fairyland  comes  in  view.  The  lit 
tie  island,  with  cottage,  is  owned  by  Mr.  Hasbrock,  of 
Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  called  Pike  Island.  The  next  on  the 
right  is  St.  John's  Island,  owned  by  Judge  Donahie,  of 
New  York.  The  next  on  the  right  is  Manhattan  group, 
owned  by  Judge  Spencer  and  Hasbrock,  of  New  York.  A 
wooden  bridge  joins  them  together.  This  is  the  first  island 
inhabited  for  recreation,  and  was  bought  by  Seth  Green,  the 
fish  culturist  of  New  York  State ;  on  the  left  is  Long  Beach, 


■Hm, 


I  i] 


42 

Anthony's  Point,  Bonnie  Castle,  on  the  right  is  Dishler  and 
Hart's  Island.  We  next  arrive  at  Alexandria  Bay,  from 
whence  we  started  most  four  hours  ago. 

WHAT  AND  WHO  MADE  ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In  1872,  President  Grant  visited  this  delightful  spot,  a 
guest  of  R.  M.  Pullman,  of  Palace  car  fame,  Pullman 
Island.  There  was  at  that  time  inadequate  hotel  accom- 
modations, for  the  tourist  as  well  as  the  visitor  who  had 
been  drawn  to  this  the  most  beautiful  natural  scenery  in  the 
world.  Messrs.  Cornwall  and  Walton  of  Alexandria  Bay, 
with  their  usual  display  of  sense  and  sagacity,  as  well  as 
business  tact  for  which  they  have  always  been  commended, 
offered  to  give  the  best  site  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  any  man 
who  would  erect  upon  it,  a  first-class  summer  hotel.  Mr. 
O.  G.  Staples,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.,  hearing  of  this  offer 
came,  he  saw,  and  how  he  conquered  you  shall  know  as  we 
proceed  with  our  narrative.  Well,  he  concluded  to  father 
the  scheme,  securing  a  man  with  money,  a  Mr.  Nott,  of 
Syracuse,  the  ground,  or  rock  rather,  was  broken  January 
14th,  1873,  and  the  Thousand  Island  House  was  completed 
and  opened  July  17th,  1873,  j"st  six  months  from  the  day 
of  starting.  Rumor  says  that  although  their  money  gave 
out  a  little  above  the  first  story  Staples'  indomitable  will  saw 
it  completed  and  furnished,  ready  to  receive  guests,  just  as 
soon  and  as  well  as  if  he  had  been  a  milHonaire.  During 
the  next  two  years  of  the  partnership  of  Staples  and  Nott, 
everything  did  not  go  as  smooth  as  a  marriage  bell,  but 
still  they  went,  and  in  the  end  Staples  had  the  money  and 
hotel.     (I  hope  the  reader  if  he  knows  Staples  will  not  be 


''wJ^ifijiAigwajilfeMii^t^ 


is  Dishler  and 
Iria  Bay,  from 

XANDRIA 


lightful  spot,  a 
ame,  h'ullinan 
;  hotel  accom- 
sitor  who  had 
scenery  in  the 
lexandria  Bay, 
nty,  as  well  as 
n  commended, 
ce  to  any  man 
er  hotel.  Mr. 
J  of  this  offer 
ill  know  as  we 
luded  to  father 
I  Mr.  Nott,  of 
roken  January 
was  completed 
i  from  the  day 
r  money  gave 
litable  will  saw 
guests,  just  as 
laire.  During 
pies  and  Nott, 
riage  bell,  but 
;he  money  and 
les  will  not  be 


lliSr.  "*&'»*'.  P" 


so  unkind  as  to  accuse  him  of  parting  with  all  his  experience 
and  make  the  pun  that  he  took  the  money  and  Nott  the 
experience.)  Staples  bought  out  Nott,  and  I  believe,  paid 
him  what,  was  agreed,  and  he  run  the  hotel  until  April 
15th,  1883,  when  Mr.  R.  H.  Southgate,  (the  man  of  many 
hotels,  too  numerous  to  mention  here),  bought  him  out. 
The  many  changes  that  have  been  made,  and  those  con- 
templated, and  when  completed,  will  make  this  the  mecca 
of  summer  resort  watering  places,  the  Venice  of  America. 
I  desire  to  say  right  here  that  I  hope  Mr.  Southgate  will 
not  lose  sight  of  what  has  in  the  past  made  the  Bay  popular 
as  a  resort.  I  like  to  see  the  standard  of  visitors  raised  as 
well  as  the  prices.  I  would  like  it  to  be  the  place  for  fish 
as  well  as  those  who  love  the  piscatorial  art  No  dust,  no 
dampness,  no  malaria  or  hay  fever,  no  mosquitoes,  light,  dry 
air,  cool  and  bracing.  Thermometer  never  over  80  or  be- 
low 50  in  July  and  August,  and  one  can  enjoy  what  is  denied 
them  almost  everywhere  else,  a  good  nine  hours  of  cool  re 
freshing  sleep  under  a  blanket.  Those  troubled  with  pul- 
monary complaints  will  find  great  relief  here.  Steamers, 
steam  yachts  and  sailing  vessels  abound,  everything  to  ani- 
mate the  scene  and  enhance  the  pleasure  of  visitors  is  done. 
Fishing,  fishing  boats,  bathing,  etc.,  as  well  as  fish  abounds, 
and  we  say  here,  if  you  have  never  been  to  the  Bay  come, 
if  you  have  been  come  and  see  it  under  the  new  reign  of 
Mr.  Charles  P.  Clemes,  and  I  know  you  will  be  pleased. 

"  YES  !  A  GREAS-Y  STATUE." 

"  How  much  do  you  weigh  ?"  Well,  1  am  asked  that 
question  many  times  every  day,  and  as  I  am  not  sensitive 
will  say  my  weight  is  three  hundred  and  thirty  pounds  (in 


"rW 


■UPP 


44 

the  shade).  The  reason  why  I  say  the  shade  is  because 
there  has  never  been  raised  a  nwithematician  with  the  ability 
to  compute  the  weight  of  a  grease  spot,  and  were  I  compelled 
to  remain  in  the  sun  very  long  would  make  one,  and  do  not 
care  to  mislead  people  into  an  error.  The  fat  of  this  land 
is  about  as  unequally  distributed  as  the  wealth.  Those  who 
ain't  got  it  want  it  ;  those  who  have  it,  have  too  much.  I 
am  therefore  a  Vanderbilt  in  grease — have  a  corner  in  lard, 
as  it  were. 

•A  LITTLE  ONE  ON  PERKINS." 

Two  gentlemen  at  the  Thousand  Island  House  one 
day  were  talking,  when  the  subject  of  truth  was  approached, 
and  one  of  them  who  stammered,  said,  "  There  are  t-t-three 
great  li-liars  i  i-in  America."  The  friend  said,  "  Who  are 
they  ?"  O-o-one  of  t-t-them  i  i-is  T-T-Tom  Oc-Oc-Ochil- 
tree  of  Ta-Ta-Texas,  and  th-th-the  other  two  is  E-E-Eli 
Perkins. 

VISITORS  AT  THE  i.ooo  ISLANDS, 

who  desire  to  vist  Montreal  and  return  by  boat  (their  time 
being  limited),  the  following  information  will  be  of  interest. 
All  passengers  arrive  in  Montreal  between  six  and  seven 
o'clock  p.  m.,  as  there  is  little  to  see  at  night  and  very  little 
time  to  see  jt  in.  The  boat  leaves  her  dock.  Canal  Basin  to 
return,  every  morning  at  9  o'clock,  except  Sunday.  You  can 
remain  in  Montreal  until  the  12  M.,  train  for  Lachine  from 
the  G.  T.  R.  Station,  (by  taking  that  train,  fare  35  cents,  you 
will  arrive  at  Lachine  in  time  to  take  the  boat  and  enjoy  your 
dmner  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Louis.)  Should  you 
desire  to  prolong  your  stay,  remain  in  Montreal  until  the  5 


jiiiiiji[iijiii.(^ii  rjiiij)^ 


45 


de  is  because 
with  the  ability 
re  I  compelled 
ne,  and  do  not 
It  of  this  land 
h.  Those  who 
too  much.  I 
corner  in  lard, 

CINS." 

:1  House  one 
IS  approached, 
re  are  t-t-three 
id,  "  Who  are 
1  Oc-Oc-Ochil- 
wo  is  E-E-Eli 

,ANDS, 

Dat  (their  time 
be  of  interest, 
six  and  seven 
and  very  little 
Canal  Basin  to 
lay.  You  can 
Lachine  from 
6.35  cents,  you 
ind  enjoy  your 
)  Should  you 
eal  until  the  5 


p.  m.  train  leaves  same  depot  for  Coteau  Landing.  A  car- 
riage in  waiting  will  take  you  to  the  boat,  fare  from  Mon- 
treal, including  carriage  $1.25.  You  will  take  passage 
from  there  at  seven  o'clock,  and  have  your  supjjcr  on  board 
of  boat  while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Francis.  As  it 
takes  the  boat  sixteen  hours  longer  to  come  back,  than  to 
go  down  (reason  they  are  compelled  to  pass  through  the 
Lachine,  Bohomoise  and  Cornwall  canals,  which  con- 
sumes the  time).  All  passengers  arrive  at  Alexandria  Bay, 
every  day,  between  one  and  two  o'clock  p.  m.,  except  on 
Monday. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  CATCHING  FISH. 

During  the  summer  of  1885  I  was  at  the  Thousand  Is- 
land House,  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y.,  and  took  note  of  some 
of  the  best  catches  of  fish,  which  with  pleasure  I  give  space 
here,  that  my  friends  may  see,  and  those  who  may  have 
heard  that  there  is  no  good  fishing  at  the  Bay,  a  chance  to 
judge.  Let  me  first  say  that  anybody  can  catch  fish  of  the 
following  varieties  anywhere  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River : 
Rock  Bass,  Black  Bass,  Perch,  Pike,  Pickerel  and  Musca- 
longe.  I  have  caught,  off  the  dock  at  the  Bay,  in  less  than 
two  hours,  a  Black  Bass  weighing  three  and  one  half  pounds 
and  a  Pickerel  weighing  over  six  pounds. 

THE  FISH  CATCH  OF  1885. 

The  fishing  season  commenced  early  and  many  prominent 
in  the  piscatorial  art  were  early  at  the  Bay  and  secured  good 
catches.  A  party  of  gentlemen,  among  them  being  Mr. 
A.  Ehrich  of  New  York,  caught,  within  a  week,  four  Mus- 


<M 


46 

calon^e  weighing,  respectively,  i8,  ai,  29  and  30  pounds. 
This  catch  was  not  beaten  during  the  season,  therefore  Mr. 
Erich  will  receive  the  medal  for  the  best  catch  of  Musca- 
longc  for  the  season  of  1885. 

Mr.  B.  E.  Lockwood,  Buckingham  Lockwood,  and  his 
brother,  of  Norvvalk,  Conn ,  caught,  June  27th,  fifty  Black 
Bass,  eighteen  weighing  over  2  pounds  each. 

Mr.  r.  T.  Easton,  of  xVew  York,  caught,  June  28th  a 
Muscalonge  weighing  20^  pounds. 

Mrs.  E.  A.  Madden  caught,  July  6th,  eleven  Black  Bass, 
one  weighing  three  pounds  ten  ounces,  and  two  over  two 
pounds  ;  also  two  large  Pickerel. 

Mrs.  W.  .V.  Frazer  caught  fifty  fish  July  nth,  20  Black 
Bass,  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds. 

Little  Julian  Madden  caught  a  Pickerel  weighing  three 
pounds  off  Thousand  Island  House  dock. 

Mr.  L.  C  irns,  of  Gainesville,  Texas,  caught  thirteen 
Pickerel  w»  from  3  to  8  jjounds. 

Miss  Brown  of  New  York,  caught,  in  two  hours,  seveu 
Black  Bass  and  Pickerel  weighing  from  2^  to  6  pounds. 

Miss  Jessie  Schwardt,  of  New  York,  caught  .several 
Pickerel  weighing  from  7  to  10  pounds  ;  also  a  Black  Bass 
2^  pounds. 

Hon.  R,  B.  Martine,  District  Attorney  of  New  York, 
came  home  one  evening  after  a  day's  sport  bringing  Black 
Bass  over  2  pounds,  some  very  large  Pickerel  and  an  Eel. 

Mr.  Bruce  Price  and  wife,  of  New  York,  two  experts  at 
fishing,  never  came  home  without  a  very  handsome  catch. 
He  is  credited  with  catching  the  largest  framed  Black  Bass 


>'-yii't!W84Wj;'»^wntite»ai;m«fe&l^^ 


nd  30  pounds. 
,  therefore  Mr. 
tch  of  MuscA- 

MTOod,  and  his 
7th,  fifty  Black 

June   28th    a 

en  Black  Bass, 
two  over  two 

ith,  20   Black 

weighing  three 

aught  thirteen 

0  hours,  seven 
)  6  pounds, 
caught   several 

1  a  Black  Bass 

of  New  York, 
jringing  Black 
.  and  an  Eel. 

two  experts  at 
ndsome  catch, 
led  Black  Bass 


ever  seen  at  the  Bay.      Had  he  been  as  fat  as  the  editor  of 
this  volume,  would  have  weighed — well,  you  guess. 

Mr.  A.  VVallack  and  wife  of  New  V'ork,  caught  several 
good  catches  of  fish,  but  one  day  were  not  one  tjuarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  hotel,  nor  gone  over  two  hours,  an<l  returned 
with  ten  I'ickerel  weighing  from  3  to  8  j)ounds. 

Mr.  Robert  (i.  McCord  and  wife,  of  New  York,  and  party, 
caught,  August  nth,  twenty-three  Black  Bass  weighing 
from  I  to  3  |)ounds.  Mrs.  McCord  caught  a  Black  Bass 
weighing  nearly  4  pounds. 

Mrs.  Frazer  and  Mrs.  Madden  caught,  August  7th, 
twenty-two  Black  Bass. 

Mr.  H.  R.  Clark,  wife,  and  Mr.  Post  formed  a  party  to 
go  up  the  Reideau  Canal  in  Canada  as  the  spots  for  good 
sport  at  the  Bay  had  become  monotonous.  They  returned 
after  eight  d.iys,  and  during  a  conversation  with  me  said 
they  would  aher  catch  six  one  pound  Black  Bass  at  Alex- 
andra Bay,  with  all  its  pleasant  surroundings,   than  catch 

one  hundred  weighing  6  pounds  each  in   any  other  waters 
on  earth. 

G.  W.  Morse,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  caught  a  Pickerel  weigh- 
ing 10^  pounds. 

Hon.  Judge  Troy  and  wife,  of  Brooklyn,  and  party,  caught 
in  one  day  forty  fish — Black  Bass,  Pike  and  Pickerel.  The 
judge  always  takes  his  rifle  along,  and  is  sure  to  bring  home 
some  rare  specimen  of  the  feathered  tribe  to  place  in  his 
collection  at  home.  They  say  he  is  no  amateur  as  a  taxi- 
dermist. 

Mr.  J.  A.  Ehrich,  of  Ehrich  Bros.,  New  York,  with  a  party 
of  friends,  on  August  1 2th,  caught  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  Black  Bass  weighing  from  i^  to  4  pounds  each. 


'i 


IPI 


pmiiip 


48 

Mr.  A.  Isaacs,  wife,  and  Miss  Cohen  have  never  failed  to 
bring  in  a  good  catch  of  Pickerel  or  Black  Bass. 

Judge  Smith,  R.  G.  McCord,  C.  M.  Stone,  Dr.  W.  C. 
Wheeler  and  party,  of  New  York,  August  isth,  caught  3^5 
Black  Bass.  Judge  Siiaitl.  caught  the  best  or  largest  Black 
Bass  (Oswego),  4^  pounds. 

Mr.  William  White  and  wife,  Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  Mr.  J. 
Lowery  and  wife  and  Mr.  Isaacs  and  friends  formed  a  party 
August  17th.  The  catch  included  fifteen  Pickerel  weighing 
from  4  to  9  pounds  and  ten  Black  Bass  weighing  from  i  to 
3  pounds. 

Mr.  Proctor  and  the  Singe  family  caught  ten  Pickerel, 
the  largest  weighing  8^  poun<ls,  several  Black  Bass,  and  the 
largest  Eel  of  the  season. 

Mr.  George  White,  a  fisherman,  caught  a  Muscalonge, 
August  19th.  weighing  10  pounds. 

Mrs.  L.  H.  Jauvrn  and  Miss  Marie,  of  New  York,  caught 
tivo  very  large  Pickerel  and  three  Black  Bass, 

Mr.  Philip  Tillinghast,  Mr.  Julian  Nathan  and  Mr. 
Charles  J.  Henry,  of  New  York,  caught,  in  sight  of  the 
Thousand  Island  House,  what  proved  to  be  the  largest 
Black  Bass  of  the  season.  Mr.  Tillinghast  was  the  lucky 
one,  and  the  fish  weighed  4  pounds  2  ounces  Mr.  Nathan 
came  next  with  an  Oswego  Black  Bass  weighing  3^^  pounds. 
Mr.  Tillinghast  of  the  Miles  Building,  New'  York,  takes  the 
gold  medal  for  the  largest  Black  Bass  caught  for  the  season 
of  1885. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  S.  Neilson,  of  New  York,  caught  in  one 
day  twenty-three  Black  Bass  weighing  from  ijto  3^  pounds 
each. 


■■<teJAi^:J'fti:!.'u!i..s^!fi»ia!^8§ai>» 


e  never  failed  to 
Bass. 

tone,  Dr.  W.   C. 

5th,  caught  325 
or  largest  Black 

1,  N.  Y.,  Mr.  J. 
i  formed  a  party 
ickerel  weighing 
ighing  from  i  to 

It  ten  Pickerel, 
:k  Bass,  and  the 

a   Muscalonge, 

ew  York,  caught 

ss. 

athan  and  Mr. 
in  sight  of  the 
be  the  largest 
It  was  the  lucky 
;s  Mr.  Nathan 
hing  3^^^  pounds, 
York,  takes  the 
it  for  the  season 

k,  caught  in  one 
I J  to  3^  pounds 


49 

F.  G.  Ringold  and  Mr.  W.  C.  Compton,  of  Cincinnati, 
Ohio,  who  have  been  visitors  at  the  Bay  for  the  past  thirty 
years,  said  to  me  last  year  that  they  were  not  troubled  with 
the  small  shad  this  year  as  the  year  previous  ;  and  the  fish- 
ing must  now  improve  since  the  restrictions  were  put  upon 
nets,  etc.,  by  the  Angler's  Association. 

Mr.  H.  R.  Clark  of  New  York,  the  most  enthusiastic 
fisherman  in  these  parts,  has  captured  and  destroyed  in  1885 
over  ninety  nets.  Mr.  Clark  caught  the  largest  fish  ever 
landed  with  an  8-ounce  rod  on  a  single  snell!  The  fish  was 
a  Sturgeon  over  5  feet  long,  and  weighed  78  pounds.  He 
was  one  hour  and  five  minutes  landing  him,  which  was 
great  sport  for  Clark. 

Mr.  H.  Merrell,  of  Montreal  (firm  of  VV.  H.  Merrell  & 
Co.),  caught  at  Hamilton's  Island,  84  pounds  of  Pike  and 
Pickerel,  and  four  Bass  weighing  4  lbs.  each ;  fourteen  Pike 
weighed  from  4  to  8  lbs,  each.  Mr.  Merrell  caught  last 
season  the  largest  Wall  Eyed  Pike  ever  taken  from  the  St. 
Lawrence  on  an  8  oz.  rod,  1 7^  pounds  weight.  He  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  fishermen  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Mr.  Fulton,  Mayor  of  Pittsburg,  Mr.  Higby,  and  a  num- 
ber of  friends,  with  their  wives,  went  fishing  a  number  of 
times  from  the  Bay  last  season.  The  number  of  fish  cap- 
tured, as  well  as  the  stories  told  by  them,  would  fill  a 
volume  this  size.  I  requested  them  to  draw  on  Eli  Perkins 
for  facts,  which  will  appear  in  the  next  edition  oi'  this  work. 

To  those  who  say  there  is  no  fishing  at  Alexandria  Bay 
(and  do  not  want  the  earth),  allow  me  to  say  Mr.  H.  R. 
Clark  has  a  standing  offer  with  me,  to  bet  any  man  $10  that 
he  can  catch  ten  pounds  of  fish  (any  where  within  a  mile  of 
the  Hote')  in  an  hour. 


jtm 


Hi 


5° 

I  am  really  sorry  to  cut  this  subject  short,  but  space 
prevents  my  giving  any  more  names  and  catches.  The 
largest  fish  caught  during  the  season  was  a  Muscalonge, 
weighing  38  lbs.,  caught  at  an  island  opposite  Rockport ; 
the  largest  caught  at  the  Bay,  18  lbs.;  the  largest  Pike,  7J 
lbs.;  the  largest  pickerel,  13  lbs.,  and  the  largest  Bass,  5^ 
lbs.  .    Respectfully  yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAGE. 

"  I  OWE  YOU  AN  APOLOGY," 

Dear  reader,  because  since  the  first  edition  of  this  work 
it  has  claimed  that  there  were  no  mosquitos  at  Alexandria 
Bay,  but  on  at  least  three  occasions  when  the  wind  was  in 
a  certain  direction  we  were  visited  last  year  by  at  least  a 
dozen  or  so.  After  a  thorough  search  of  three  weeks, 
unable  to  find  the  cause,  we  were  about  to  give  it  up 
when,  to  oar  astonishment,  we  discovered  it.  Upon 
looking  up  the  hotel  register  we  found  that  the  hotel 
opened  that  year  with  twenty-seven  guests,  all  from 
New  Jersey.  Comments  are  unneccessary.  We  found 
relief  in  attending  Sunday  School,  and  after  the  usual 
exercises  were  gone  through  with  a  collection  was  to  be 
taken  for  the  poor.  The  teacher,  desiring  to  show  the 
aptness  of  the  pupils,  asked  each  one  as  he  put  his  mite 
into  the  box  to  recite  an  appropriate  verse  from  the  Bible. 
The  first  lad  said,  "  The  Lord  loveth  the  cheerful  giver," 
placed  his  mite  in  and  took  his  seat.  The  second  one  said 
"  He  that  giveth  to  the  poor  lendeth  unto  the  Lord,"  and 
proudly  took  his  seat.  The  third  boy,  more  worldly  than 
the  rest,  remarked  "that  a  fool  and  his  money  soon 
parted."— He  will  sit  down,  if  he  can,  at  home. 


-•m.-.y 


51 


[lort,  but  space 
catches.  The 
;  a  Muscalonge, 
osite  Rockport; 
largest  Pike,  7J 
largest  Bass,  5^^ 
purs, 
BABBAGE. 

OGY," 

in  of  this  work 
i  at  Alexandria 
the  wind  was  in 
;ar  by  at  least  a 
of  three  weeks, 
t  to  give  it  up 
ered  it.  Upon 
that  the  hotel 
lests,  all  from 
iry.  We  found 
after  the  usual 
tion  was  to  be 
ing  to  show  the 
he  put  his  mite 
from  the  Bible, 
cheerful  giver," 
second  one  said 
the  Lord,"  and 
)re  worldly  than 
lis  money  soon 
ome. 


A   REAL   LIVE  DUDE 

was  at  the  Bay  last  season,  and  I  must  give  him  credit  for 
one  thing,  if  I  could  not  for  having  either  money  or  brains, 
but  will  say  he  was  very  attentive  to  the  ladies,  and  it  may 
be  said  to  his  credit  he  never  tried  to  cut  me  out.  One 
fine  morning  he  induced  three  of  the  nicest  young  ladies  at 
the  Bay  to  take  a  boat  ride,  and  for  the  privilege  of  their 
company  agreed  to  do  the  rowing  himself.  They  had  been 
out  upon  the  water  for  some  time,  and  he  had  done  the 
rowing  heroically,  but,  getting  into  the  strong  current,  his 
physical  development  was  being  tested  to  its  utmost,  when 
he  asked  the  young  ladies  "  if  it  would  not  be  better  for 
him  to  hug  the  shore."  After  a  pause  of  a  minute,  the 
girliest  girl  of  the  group  exclaimed :  "  Well,  if  you  cannot 
find  anything  better  to  hug,  do  for  heaven's  sake,  '  hug  the 
shore  ! '  " 

SOME  OF    THE  OWNERS. 

St.  John's  five  pcres,  Judge  C.  Donohue,  New  York. 

Manhattan,  five  acres,  Judge  Spencer  and  J.  L,  Has- 
brouck.  New  York. 

Deshler,  twelve  acres,  W.  G.  Deshler,  Columbus,  O. 

Deer,  twenty-five  acres,  S.  Miller,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Fairy  Land,  twenty  acres,  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden, 
Columbus,  O. 

Piatt,  two  acres,  Sisson  &  Box,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Brown's,  ten  acres,  S.  G.  Pope,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Pleasant,  three  acres,  Sisson  &  Fox,  Alexandria  Bay. 

Pullman's,  three  acres,  George  M.  Pullman,  Chicago,  111. 

Friendly,  three  acres,  A.  B.  Parker  and  Abner  Mellen, 
Jr.,  New  York. 


\ 


^iJiiJA 


52 

Cherry,  eleven  acres,  A.  B.  Pullman  and  C.  B.  Marsh,  of 
Chicago,  III;  the  Rev.  George  Rockwell,  Fulton,  N.  Y. 

Nobby,  over  three  acres,  H.       Heath,  New  York. 

Welcome,  three  acres,  S.  G.  JPope,  Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y. 

Florence  Proctor,  one  acre,  E.  R.  Proctor,  Cincinnati,  O. 

Maple,  three  acrer,,  J.  L.  Hasbrouck,  owner. 

Netts,  one-half  acre,  E.  A.  Kollymer,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Summer  Land,  ten  acres,  the  Reverend  Asa  Saxe,  D.  D., 
Rochester,  N.  Y.;  Almon  Gunnison,  D.  D.,  Brooklyn,  and 
Richmond  Fisk,  D.  D.,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

Isle  Imperial,  one  acre,  Mrs.  LeCount,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Linleth  Gow,  one-half  acre,  R.  A.  Livingston,  New  York. 

Elephant  Rock,  one-fourth  acre,  T.  C.  Crittenden,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Idlewiid,  four  acres,  R.  A.  Packer,  Sayre,  Pa. 

Arcadia  and  Ina,  two  acres,  S.  A.  Briggs,  New  York. 

Sport,  four  acres,  H.  A.  Packer,  Mauch  Chunk,  Pa. 

Rye,  J.  H.  Hunt,  New  York. 

Kit  Grafton,  one-fourth  acre,  Mrs.  S.  L.  George,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Island  Mary,  two  acres,  W.  L.  Palmer,  Watertown,  and 
James  M.  Browner,  St.  Louis. 

Little  Charm,  one-eighth  acre,  Mrs.  F.  W.  Barker,  Alex- 
andria Bay. 

Frost,  two  acres,  Mrs.  Sarah  L.  Frost,  Watertown. 

Excelsior  Group,  five  acres,  C.  S.  Goodwin,  Oneida, 
N.  Y. 

Resort,  three  acres,  Pioneer  Club,  Watertown. 

Island  Royal,  Royal  E.  Dean,  New  York. 

Devil's  Oven,  one-fourth  acre,  has  been  fitted  up  with  an 
observatory,  H.  R.  Heath,  New  /ork.  i 


-^4amU>aAiSiMm 


C.  B.  Marsh,  of 
ulton,  N.  Y. 
Jew  York, 
nsburgh,  N.  Y. 
r,  Cincinnati,  O. 
ler. 

)oklyn,  N.  Y. 
Lsa  Saxe,  D.  D., 
.,  Brooklyn,  and 

Philadelphia,  Pa. 
ston,  New  York, 
ittenden,  Water- 

,  Pa. 

,  New  York. 

Chunk,  Pa. 

George,  Water- 

Watertown,  and 

V.  Barker,  Alex- 

^^atertown. 
oodwin,  Oneida, 

town. 

I. 

fitted  up  with  an 


53 

Sylvan  and  Moss,  three  acres,  S.  T.  Woohvorth,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Cuba,  five  acres,  W.  F.  Storey,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Little  Angell,  one-eight  acre,  W.  A.  Angell,  Chicago. 

Little  Lehigh,  one  acre,  Col.  R.  B.  Yates,  Rochester,  and 
C.  H.  Cummings,  New  York. 

Warner's  four  acres. 

Island  Home,  one  acre,  S.  D.  Hungerford,  Adams,  N.  Y. 

Sunny  Side,  one  acre,  Mrs.  Emily  Moak,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Wild  Rose,  one  acre,  W.  G.  Rose,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 

No  name,  one-quarter  acre,  Mrs.  F.  Hammerkin,  Syra- 
cuse, N.  Y. 

Harmony,  one-quarter  acre,  Mrs.  Celia  Berger,  Syracuse, 
N.  Y. 

Wynnst  one  acre,  Mrs.  Bergin,  of  Spuyten-Duyvel, 
N.  Y. 

Alice  Isle,  two  acres,  J.  G.  Hill,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Island  Royal,  Royal  E.  Deane  (firm  of  Bramall,  Deane 
&  Co.),  New  York. 

Sunbeam  Group,  one  acre,  C.  E.  Ailing,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Walton,  now  Lotus  Land,  twenty-two  acres,  Mrs.  J.  N. 
Robins  and  Mrs.  G.  H.  Robinson,  "■  New  York,  purchased 
in  1883,  will  be  improved  by  all  the  art  at  their  command. 

Bula  Vista,  Lodge  Keepler  Point,  owned  by  Mr.  Bos- 
worth,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis. 

Seven  Sister  Isles,  owned  by  Dr.  Winston,  of  Washington, 

D.  c.    ;        i 

Comfort,  formerly  Pratt  and  Centennial,  owned  by  A.  E. 
Clark,  of  Chicago  Produce  Exchange,  who  has  spent 
$20,000  upon  the  spot  to  beautify  it. 


:i 
1 

I 

9 

H 

m. 


54 

Deer  Island,  owned  by  Hon.  Sam.  Miller,  of  New  Haven, 
Conn.,  formerly  of  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Melrose  Lodge  and  Ingle  Side,  owned  by  Messrs.  A.  B 
Pullman  and  C.  B.  Marsh. 

Florence  Island,  owned  by  H.  S.  Chandler,  of  the  Inde- 
pendent. 

Two-Islands-in-Eel-Bay,  two  acres,  E.  L.  Sargent,  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. 

Long  Branch,  ten  acres,  Mrs.  C.  E.  Clark,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Nigger,  three  acres,  Eugene  Robinson,  of  New  York. 

Ella,  one-quarter  acre,  R.  E.  Hungerford,  Watertown, 
N.  Y. 

Lookout,  two  acres,  Thomas  H.  Borden,  New  York. 

Grinnell  Island,  two  acres,  D.  G.  Grinnell,  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y. 

Douglass,  three  acres,  Douglass  Miller,  New  Haven, 
Conn. 

Hub,  opposite  Alexandria  Bay,  owned  by  H.  R.  Clark's 
youngest  son,  a  birthday  present  from  Cornwall  and  Walton. 

Hart's,  five  acres,  E.  Kirke  Hart,  Albion,  N.  Y. 

Sunny-Side,  two  acres,  Wm.  Stickenson,  Sayre,  Pa. 

Wau  Winnett,  two  acres,  Mr.  Hill,  Chicago,  III. 

WESTMINSTER  PARK. 

Opposite  the  Thousand  Island  House,  is  Westminster 
Park,  on  the  lower  end  of  Wells  Island.  It  is  eight  miles 
long  and  from  three  to  four  miles  wide.  On  the  otlier  side 
of  it  is  the  Canadian  channel  of  the  river,  about  half  a 
mile  wide.  The  lower  end  of  tlie  Island  is  separated  into 
two  parts  by  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  that  ever 


of  New  Haven, 

y  Messrs.  A.  B 

ler,  of  the  Inde- 

Sargent,  Waier- 

irk,  Watertown, 

New  York. 
»rd,  Watertown, 

New  York, 
inell,  Brooklyn, 

•,    New   Haven, 

y  H.  R.  Clark's 
rail  and  Walton. 
N.  Y. 
3ayre,  Pa. 
go.  111. 

K. 

is  Westminster 
It  is  eight  miles 
»n  the  otlier  side 
er,  about  half  a 
s  separated  into 
water  that  ever 


55 

rippled  against  the  bows  of  a  canoe.  This  is  called  the 
"  Lake  of  the  Island,"  and  it  is  connected  with  the  river,  on 
both  the  American  and  Canadian  sides,  by  a  narrow  chan- 
nel. The  Lake  is  five  or  six  miles  long,  as  smooth  as  glass, 
and  is  altogether  too  pretty  and  too  romantic  to  attempt  to 
describe. 

Westminster  Park  was  bought  in  1874  by  a  Presbyterian 
stock  company,  and  it  now  has  about  15  miles  of  drives 
and  some  fine  buildings.  It  has  two  long  water  fronts — one 
on  the  American  side  of  the  river,  and  the  other  on  the 
Lake  of  the  Island,  on  the  Canadian  side,  there  is  a  high 
hill  on  the  island  called  Mount  Beulah,  though  after  climb- 
ing it  1  think  the  Hill  Difficuity  would  be  a  more  appro- 
priate name.  There  is  a  large  chapel  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  known  as  Bethune  Chapel,  with  seating  -"ccomodations 
for  a  thousand  persons,  and  with  a  tower  1 3^  .?et  high,  (was 
blown  down  in  March,  1885,)  affording  a  ..-eautiful  view  of 
the  river  and  the  islands  The  name  of  the  chapel  recalls 
the  fact  that  the  late  Rev.  Dr.  Geo.  W.  Bethune  was  the 
pioneer  tourist  through  this  region,  and  until  his  death  con- 
tinued to  come  here  summer  after  summer  for  recreation. 

BONNIE  CASTLE. 

"  Timothy  Titcomb  "  (Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  editor  of  Scrib- 
ner's  Monthly),  chose  this  point  as  a  haven  of  rest  and  re- 
cuperation, and  who  does  not  commend  his  choice.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  he  died  in  New  York  shortly  after 
leaving  his  cherished  Bonnie  Castle  in  i88i,  for  his  ardous 
winter's  labors.     I-ight  house  in  the  distance. 


m 


56 


A  LETTER  FROM  SETH  GREEN. 


NEW   YORK    STATE   FISHERY   COMMISSION. 


Office  of  the  Superintendent. 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  March  20th. 
My  Dear  Little  "  Phat  Boy"  : 

You  request  of  me  a  letter  for  your  book.  Let- 
ter writing  is  not  my  forte,  but  you  are  welcome  to  use  these 
facts.  In  1855  I  bought  an  island  and  named  it  Manhat- 
tan, near  Alexandria  Bay,  built  house  upon  it  in  the  fall  and 
moved  there  with  my  family  the  next  spring  and  lived  there 
during  the  summers  of  1856  and  1857.  The  year  of  1858 
I  spent  a  part  of  the  season  with  a  party  of  prominent  gen- 
tlemen. During  the  time  I  was  there,  if  I  wanted  black 
bass  for  breakfast  I  could  take  my  two  fly  rods  and  take 
from  5  to  10  black  bass  by  trolling  around  my  island  of  4 
acres,  and  at  any  time  after  August  ist,  I  could  take  my  gun 
and  kill  a  mess  of  ducks  in  a  short  time.  There  was  a  few 
deer  on  Welles  Island  then.  I  have  killed  .50  ducks  in  one 
day  among  the  islands,  and  I  could  take  100  black  bass  with 
fly  any  day  I  wished. 

Immediately  opposite  is  Hart's  Island,  back  of  which  is 
Deshler.     Next  on  the  left  is 

MANHATTAN, 

the  first  island  on  which  habitation  was  attempted.  It  was 
bought  by  Mr.  Seth  Green,  the  fish  culturist  of  N.  Y.,  in 
1855.  He  built  a  cottage  upon  it  and  for  several  years 
spent  his  summers  here.     Mr.  J.  L.  Hasbrouck  and  Judge 


"  luii'H'M  'm'm'^4£id%i':^z-^t^^&^ 


iREEN. 

SSION. 

t. 

March  20th. 

>ur  book.  Let- 
me  to  use  these 
med  it  Manhat- 
t  in  the  fall  and 
and  lived  there 
he  year  of  1858 
prominent  gen- 
I  wanted  black 
'  rods  and  take 
my  island  of  4 
Id  take  my  gun 
'here  was  a  few 
;o  ducks  in  one 
black  bass  with 

ick  of  which  is 


npted.  It  was 
St  of  N.  Y.,  in 
r  several  years 
ick  and  Judge 


57 

J.  C.  Spencer,  of  N.  Y.,  purchased  it  from  him.  They  have 
spent  $15,000  upon  the  Island.  The  original  cottage  built 
by  Seth  Green  still  remains  and  is  used  by  them  as  a  dining 
room. 

Between  Deshler  and  Manhattan,  looking  backward,  is 
Fairyland,  owned  by  C.  H.  and  W.  B.  Hayden,  of  Colum- 
bus, Ohio.  This  is  really  one  of  the  finest  islands  in  the 
river.  At  a  vast  expense  art  has  triumphed  over  nature, 
transforming  a  barren  into  the  loveliest  of  green  lawns. 
Next  on  the  left  is  deer  island ;  then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  "  Thousand 
Islands,"  is  located  mid-way  between  the  north  and  south 
channels  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  three  miles  below 
Alexandria  Bay,  having  an  area  of  fourteen  acres  and  is 
the  largest  of  the  "  Summerland  group,"  which  includes 
"Idlewild,"  "Sport,"  "Ida"  and  "Arcadia."  The  island 
is  covered  with  a  dense  forest  furnishing  an  abundance  of 
shade  and  is  said  to  have  the  finest  groves  on  the 
river.  At  the  extreme  northerly  and  southerly  ends  of  the 
island  there  are  extensive  sandy  beaches,  a  great  rarity  in 
this  locality,  wiiich  are  used  by  the  "  Summerlanders "  for 
bathing  purposes.  The  island  is  traversed  from  end  to  end 
by  a  most  delightful  natural  avenue,  densely  shaded  and 
lined  on  either  side  with  a  thick  undergrowth  of  wild 
flowers  and  ferns.  The  island  is  owned  by  the  Summerland 
Association,  a  corporation  organized  under  and  by  virtue 
of  the  laws  of  the  State  of  New  York,  for  social  and  yacht- 
ing purposes,  and  composed  of  the  following  stockholders  : 
Rev.   Asa  Saxe,  D.  D.,  Isaiah  F.  Force,  James  Si-gent, 


Bjegjgg 


S8 

Sears  E.  Brace,  Emory  B.  Chase,  Henry  C.  Wisner,  Lewis 
P.  Ross,  Francis  M.  McFarlin,  Chas.  W.  Gray,  George  H. 
Newell,  Henry  O.  Hall,  Joseph  A.  Stull  and  Frank  W. 
Hawley,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.  ;  Rev  Richmonl  Fish,  D.  D., 
Alfred  Underhill  and  Horace  Bronson  of  Syramse,  N.  Y.  ; 
Rev.  Almond  Gunnison,  D.  D.,  and  Frank  Sperry,  of 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y,  The  association  have  erected  upon  the 
island  a  large  and  commodious  "  Club  House,"  wherein  the 
members  of  the  association  and  their  families  take  their 
meals. 

After  setting  apart  a  large  grove  at  each  end  of  the  island 
for  general  use,  the  balance  of  the  island  was  divided  into 
lots,  one  of  which  was  assigned  to  each  stockholder.  Upon 
these  lots  so  assigned,  the  members  of  the  association  have 
erected  cottages  for  the  sole  use  of  their  own  families. 

In  addition  to  the  Club  House  the  association  has  erected 
numerous  pavilions  and  summer  houses  in  different  parts  of 
the  islartd,  together  with  a  large  ice  house,  and  has  con- 
structed several  docks  of  sufficient  size  to  permit  of  the 
landing  of  large  steamers. 

The  association  owns  a  large  steam  yacht,  which  is  used 
in  running  to  and  from  Alexandria  Bay  and  for  fishing  and 
pleasure  excursions. 

Each  member  of  the  association  provides  himself  with 
sailing  and  row  boats.  The  Club  House  is  opened  for  the 
reception  of  the  members  of  the  association  and  their  im- 
mediate families  only,  on  the  first  day  of  July  of  each  year, 
and  remains  open  until  about  September  isth,  dunng  all 
of  which  time  the  yacht  is  at  the  service  of  the  party. 


-4  M!mh^i:^iJ^^My^mi^!i^^- 


.  Wisner,  Lewis 
rray,  George  H. 
and  Frank  W. 
)n(l  Fish,  D.  D., 
yracuse,  N.  Y.  ; 
ank  Sperry,  of 
jcted  upon  the 
sc,"  wherein  the 
ilies   take  their 

nd  of  the  island 
IS  divided  into 
;kholder.  Upon 
issociation  have 
n  families. 

tion  has  erected 
lifferent  parts  of 
:,  and  has  con- 
I  permit  of  the 

t,  which  is  used 
for  fishing  and 

es  himself  with 
i  opened  for  the 
n  and  their  im- 
ily  of  each  year. 
15th,  dunng  all 
the  party. 


59 

Between  Deer  island  and  Summerland  is  Cedar;  back  of 
Cedar  is  Sport,  owned  by  H.  A.  Packer,  who  died  in  1884. 
The  island,  however,  will  be  occupied  this  year  by  H.  C. 
Wilbur,  G.  B.  Linderman,  C.  B.  Newton  and  other  friends. 
Anthony  Point  is  on  the  right.  This  place  is  the  resort  of 
E.  and  T.  H.  Anthony,  the  extensive  dealers  in  photogra- 
phic goods  in  New  York. 

APING  CUSTOMS,   MANNERS,    ETC.,   OF 

THE  ENGLISH. 

This  is  done  to  a  great  extent,  not  only  in  Canada,  but 
I  am  sorry  to  say  in  Free  America,  1  etter  known  as  the  U. 
S.  I  cannot  find  any  fault  with  the  average  Canadian,  who 
is,  as  it  were,  governed  by  Queen  Victoria,  and  must  have 
some  reverence  for  royalty  in  the  apiiig  of  tliei.  manners 
and  customs,  but  in  this  land  where  we  have  an  abundance 
of  Queens,  Princes,  Lords  and  Sovereigns  who  are  not 
flattered  by  titles,  but  bear  their  honors  meekly,  all  are 
royal  born  and  bred.  Speaking  of  titles  reminds  me  that 
at  home  I  am  plain  Edward  F.  Babbage,  or  "  Phat  Boy," 
(I  spell  it  with  '  Ph  '  because  it  does  not  sound  so  greasy), 
but  the  moment  I  leave  homt,  say  for  a  trip  through  the 
Soutii,  I  am  called  Captain  for  the  first  few  hundred  miles, 
then  a  little  way  on  its  becomes  Colonel,  and  when  I  get  to 
Georgia  it  is  Major,  in  South  Carolina  it  is  Judge  or 
General,  until  I  get  to  Florida,  and  I  have  heard  them  say 
there  "  great  God  is  that  you  ?"  But  wc  diverge.  Returning 
to  the  aping  of  the  manners  of  Princess  Louise,  I  wish 
to  say  right  here  that  I  firmly  believe  it  did  the  Canadian 
people  a  great  amount  of  good,  but  fail  to  see  where  the 


SET" 


6o 

people  of  the  United  States  could  be  benefitted.  I  was  told 
that  at  Kingston  the  Princess  asked  for  her  strawberries  in 
a  box  with  hulls  on,  and  when  placed  before  her  she  took 
them  up  by  the  stem  between  the  thumb  and  finger  and  bit 
the  berry  oft'  and  placed  the  hull  on  the  plate.  Now  every- 
body does  the  same  ;  previous  to  her  visit  they  used  to  hull 
and  wash  them  before  placing  them  on  the  table.  The 
same  with  grapes.  They  used  to  wash  them  in  a  goblet  of 
water  at  the  table  before  eating  them  ;  now  they  take  the 
grape  between  the  th;.ii.hand  finger,  press  it  to  the  lips  and 
squeeze  gently,  and  juice  as  ^^c^  as  insides  are  soon  on  the 
way  to  digestion,  and  the  skin  laid  away  on  the  plate  as  the 
Princess  did.  Asparagus — it  was  almost  painful  for  me  to 
see  Canadians  eat  it  in  as  many  ways  as  there  were  people 
at  the  tiible,  in  fact  no  two  ate  it  alike  until  after  the  Prin- 
cess came  ;  now  everybody  takes  it  by  the  hard  green  end, 
between  thumb  and  finger,  and  putting  it  into  the  mouth, 
doses  the  teeth  down  upon  it  and  draws  it  gently  from  the 
mouth,  leaving  all  that  is  digestible  within,  and  the  remain- 
der is  laid  on  the  plate.  The  Princess  once  took  a  walk 
thrp'igh  her  kitchen  at  Rideau  Hall,  Ottawa,  took  the  vege- 
labk-  cook  to  task  for  washing  fresh  picked  peas  from  the 
Anne  iliat  had  just  been  shelled,  saying  it  was  nonsense,  if 
your  hands  are  clean.  '  >  wash  a  virgin  pea. 

HOW  WOMEN  FISH. 

Having  read  various  descriptions  of  how  fishing  is  carried 
on  by  the  fair  sex  at  the  several  watering  places,  permit  us 
to  mention  some  of  them.  One  writer  said :  "  Ah  !  what 
joy  to  have  a  bite ;  what  rare  delight  to  find  one's  bait 
gone" — and  it   was  only  b'  the  suicidal  policy  of  some 


"  -  ;Ks«.-*r-w;SK-snss**mvia^  •smrns^miS'^^ 


'^■^  s.-f'Vi.-f.rv^i 


SsSSJa^I^®^ 


m 


6i 


ted.  I  was  told 
strawberries  in 
)re  her  she  took 
id  finger  and  bit 
;e.  Now  every- 
tiey  used  to  hull 
he  table.  The 
n  in  a  goblet  ot° 
)w  they  take  the 
t  to  the  lips  and 
are  soon  on  the 
the  plate  as  the 
linful  for  me  to 
ere  were  people 
after  the  Prin- 
hard  green  end, 
into  the  mouth, 
gently  from  the 
cind  the  remain- 
ce  took  a  walk 
,,  took  the  vege- 
peas  from  the 
was  nonsense,  if 


[. 

ishing  is  carried 
laces,  permit  us 
d  :  "  Ah  !  what 
find  one's  bait 
policy  of  some 


water-weary  fish  who  chance  to  pass  our  way  that  we  could 
record  one  fish  for  our  day's  sport.  How  different  is  the 
fishing  at  the  Bay.  I  have  known  Mrs.  A.  Isaacs  and 
daughter,  of  Brooklyn,  to  catch  in  four  hours  20  fish,  two 
of  which  weighed  over  25  pounds.  A  gentleman  says  of 
the  fishing  near  the  Hudson:  ''The  first  thing  a  woman 
(I  es  when  she  goes  fishing  is  to  make  herself  look  as  hideous 
as  possible — a  sort  of  a  cross  between  the  Witch  of  F.ndor 
and  Meg  Merrilles.  This  is  done  by  a  hideous  straw  hat 
big  enough  to  cover  a  chicken  coop,  the  oldest  and  most 
unbecoming  dress  she  has  got,  a  pair  of  gloves  six  sizes  too 
large,  and,  if  possible  rubber  boots  ;  and  the  sight  of  woman, 
lovely  woman,  so  dressed  presents  a  spectacle  of  pity." 
You  will  not  have  occasion  to  pity  any  of  the  ladies  who  go 
fishing  from  the  Bay,  for  they  look  so  jaunty  you  would 
envy  them  and  their  enjoyment  as  well  as  fish.  I  have 
known  Mrs.  Madden  and  party  to  bring  home  30  fish,  from 
a  3^  black  bass  to  a  7  It)  pickerel.  A  friend  writes  from 
C Lake,  telling  how  he  spent  a  day  fishing  there,  ac- 
companied by  three  ladies  and  a  gentleman  friend.  Womeii 
never  step  into  a  boat  here,  but  always  jump.  Of  course 
she  slips,  falls  down,  yells  for  help,  nearly  upsets  the  boat» 
and  is  put  to  rights  by  the  most  eligible  young  man  in  the 
party.  Nothing  will  do,  then,  but  sh."*  must  row,  and  she 
knows  as  much  about  rowing  as  a  cow  does  about  billiards. 
She  handles  her  oars  as  if  they  were  trees,  splashes  every  one 
with  water,  blisters  her  hands,  and  after  half  an  hour's  work 
she  is  about  ten  feet  away  in  the  wrong  direction,  when  one 
of  the  men  takes  the  oars  and  we  are  soon  at  our  fishing 
place.  She  tries  to  bait  her  hook,  and  after  getting  the 
hook  into  all  her  fingers,  in  fact  everywhere  but  into  the 


■s^ 


>&:. 


wm. 


67 


minnow,  her  friend  baits  the  hook,  and  she  throws  it  out. 
The  first  time  it  catches  on  to  one  of  the  ladies'  ears,  the 
next  throw,  into  the  L.t^Ic  of  the  gentleman's  neck,  and  the 
third  time  into  the  coat  of  her  friend,  who  quietly  cuts  it 
out  (it  is  his  best  coat),  and  he  quietly  puts  the  line  into  the 
water  without  saying  a  cuss  word,  and  says  he  hopes  she 
will  catch  a  whale.  After  a  few  moments  of  quiet  all  are 
informed  she  has  a  bite ;  she  pulls  it  in  steadily,  to  find  it  is 
part  of  the  carcass  of  a  dead  horse.  She  is  soon  relieved  of 
the  burden  and  catches  a  small  perch.  She  is  so  delighted 
that  she  must  let  it  Hop  into  the  faces  of  every  one  in  the 
boat,  tries  for  twenty  minutes  to  take  it  off  the  hook,  but 
her  fingers  are  so  sore  she  lets  the  job  out  to  her  male  com- 
panion. One  of  the  other  ladies  has  sat  for  two  hours 
without  moving  a  muscle,  while  the  other,  I  believe,  would 
fish  with  a  hair-pin  baited  with  a  piece  of  red  flannel  hung 
to  a  skein  of  silk  in  a  stationary  wash  tub,  and  swear 
solemnly  when  she  got  through  that  she  had  millions  of 
bites.  Dear  lady  readers,  we  have  no  such  experiences  to 
relate  at  Alexandria  Bay.  The  boats  are  the  prettiest,  the 
fishermen  the  nicest,  the  fish  the  largest  and  best,  the  boat- 
men bait  your  hooks ;  the  hotel  furnishes  the  lunch,  and 
you  are  sure  to  catch  fish ;  and  when  they  are  cooked  and 
you  eat  your  meal  served  upon  an  Island,  and  do  not  say 
you  have  had  the  most  pleasant  day  ever  spent  fiehing,  draw 
on  me  for  the  balance.  P.  B. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and  as  one  enthusiastic  writer  puts  it — such 
water ! — is  abundant,  and  to  enjoy  this  water  in  a  pensive 
or  poetic  mood,  the  steam  yacht  should  be  brought  into 


."?HH,«.'i4l'^J. 


^i  'S4w^'j?- 


<^3 


throws  it  out. 
ladies'  ears,  the 
s  neck,  and  the 
)  quietly  cuts  it 
the  line  into  the 
s  he  hopes  she 
of  quiet  all  are 
dily,  to  find  it  is 
soon  relieved  of 
£  is  so  delighted 
very  one  in  the 
ff  the  hook,  but 
J  her  male  com- 
t  for  two  hours 
[  believe,  would 
ed  flannel  hung 
tub,  and  swear 
had  millions  of 
1  experiences  to 
he  prettiest,  the 
I  best,  the  boat- 
5  the  lunch,  and 
are  cooked  and 
md  do  not  say 
;nt  fiehing,  draw 
P.  B. 


puts  it — such 
er  in  a  pensive 
)e  brought  into 


requisition.  Private  yachts  are  numerous  and  elegant,  and 
it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  owners  that  they  are  not  niggardly 
in  exhibiting  a  spirit  of  generosity  and  courtesy.  They  are 
constantly  inviting  individuals  and  parties  to  enjoy  the 
exhilerating  excitement  of  the  shooting  around  the  beauti- 
ful spots.  And  if  you,  dear  tourist,  have  no  friend  that 
invites  you  to  share  a  cushioned  seat  in  his  graceful  fairy 
like  craft,  then  go  to  Capt.  E.  W.  Visger,  on  the  Island 
Wanderer,  or  Capt.  Sweet,  of  the  John  Thorn,  and  they 
will  take  you  on  an  excursion  among  the  Islands  that  you 
will  gladly  recall  as  a  cheerful  reminiscence  of  your  St. 
Lawrence  excursion,  for  the  opportunity  will  have  been 
offered  to  bring  within  the  range  of  your  vision  enchanting 
scenes  that  pen  is  not  adequate  to  describe,  but  by  pur- 
chasing one  of  the  "  Phat  Boy's  "  Birds-eye  Charts  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  you  will  be  the  possessor  of  the  only  correct 
map  of  the  St.  Lawrence.     A  perfect  guide  to  the  river. 

Still  continuing  our  course,  looking  to  the  right,  is  the 
cottage  of  Mrs.  Clark,  of  Watertown.  Next,  Goose  Bay  is 
the  island  owned  by  Dr.  Carleton,  near  which  is  the  Three 
Sisters'  Island ;  before  the  Three  Sisters'  is  Hume's  Island. 
Next,  on  the  left,  is  Whiskey  Island,  and  on  the  right  oppo- 
site are  a  number  of  large  and  small  islands,  the  names  of 
which  we  will  not  weary  the  tourist's  brain  with. 

Goose  Bay  is  really  beautiful,  if  its  name  is  slightly 
homely.  It  is  studded  with  islands,  and  fishing  abounds. 
It  is  here  that  Mr.  Hurbert  R.  Clark,  of  New  York,  in  one 
day  caught  some  300  pounds  of  black  bass,  ranging  in 
weight  from  i^  pounds  to  6^  pounds.  On  the  right  is 
Lyon's  dock  and  Meeker's    island.     Next,  on  the  left,  is 


!     f 


mm 


m 


Three  Sisters  light ;  in  the  distance  is  Lone  Star,  or  Dark 
Island;  Island  No.  i,  it  is  called  by  some.  After  passing, 
on  the  left  is  a  small  cluster  of  island  shoals.  On  th"  ught 
is  Chippewa  Bay.  This  is  a  superb  sheet  of  water,  where 
the  fishing  is  a  marked  feature.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  of 
Ogdensburg  people,  who  occupy  the  contiguous  islands. 
All  around  the  shore  are  camps,  cottages,  etc.,  and  make 
an  animated  scene  for  the  tourist.  Three  miles  from  Chip- 
pewa Bay  on  the  left  is  Crossover  light ;  thence  three  miles 
to  Cole's  light  on  the  left,  where  we  enter  the  Canadian 
channel.  Nine  miles  in  the  distance  is  Brockville.  On  the 
right  opposite  Cole's  light  is  Oak  point.  Four  miles  below 
is  Allen's  landing,  a  very  popular  place  for  picnics,  etc. 
On  the  left  a  prominent  bluff.  On  the  right  for  six  miles 
the  islands  come  thick  and  fast ;  huge  rocks  rise  from  the 
water's  surface,  with  very  little  vegetation  or  foliage,  and 
the  boat  makes  her  way  rapidly  among  them,  winding  around 
like  a  snake,  heading  for  all  the  points  of  the  compass,  fre- 
quently getting  herself  into  coves  and  bays  that  apparently 
have  no  outlet,  but  always  finding  a  channel,  and  sailing 
triumphantly  out  into  the  broad  waters  again. 


A  little  beyond  is  St.  Lawrence  Park,  used  for  pleasure 
and  picnic  parties,  especially  by  our  Canadian  friends  of 
Brockville.  We  are  now  at  the  village  of  Brockville  ;  we 
"  take  a  rest  "  for  route  B. 


In  front  of  Brockville  are  the  last  three  of  the  Thousand 
Islands  ;  being  some  distance  from  the  rest,  it  is  presumable 
they  drifted  away,  and  finally  rooted  here.  This,  however, 
was  "  long  befo'  the  wah  !  " 


"?ia4!jaii-j 


le  Star,  or  Dark 
After  passing, 
5.  On  th'  iight 
of  water,  where 
avorite  resort  of 
tiguous  islands. 
,  etc.,  and  make 
niles  from  Chip- 
ence  three  miles 
r  the  Canadian 
ckville.  On  the 
our  miles  below 
for  picnics,  etc. 
It  for  six  miles 
;ks  rise  from  the 
or  foliage,  and 
winding  around 
!ie  compass,  fre- 
that  apparently 
nel,  and  sailing 
n. 

sed  for  pleasure 

idian  friends  of 

Brockville  :  we 


f  the  Thousand 

it  is  presumable 

This,  however. 


65 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Morristown,  a  small,  lively 
American  village,  of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  a  station  on 
the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R.,  connects  with  Brockville 
by  two  steam  ferries. 


This  is  a  pictuie  of  my  twin  brother,  Dr.  E.  F.  Babbage, 
'  Rochester,  N.  Y.     "  A  friend  in  need."     How  I  wish  I 
>\  as  a  doctor. 

"Phat  Boy." 


wmmmmmmmmmf^^ 


66 


Route  B. 


Our  object  being  to  make  this  little  book  a  complete 
Guide  to  the  Thousand  Islands  and  St.  Lawrence  River,  so 
that  tourists  from  any  section,  no  matter  where  they  strike, 
will  find  it  intelligible  to  learn  their  location.  We  have 
therefore  divided  the  explanation  into  two  routes.  First,  we 
took  our  friends  from  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  Lewis- 
ton,  Toronto,  Kingston  and  the  American  channel  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  Brockville.  Secoml,  our  journey 
will  be  from  Cape  Vincent,  thence  down  the  St.  Lawrence 
through  the  American  channel  to  Brockville. 

CAPE  VINCENT 

is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y.,  at  the 
junction  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It 
is  also  the  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdens- 
burg  Railroad,  and  connections  by  steamer  St.  Lawrence 
are  made  to  Alexandria  Bay.     . 

As  we  steam  out  of  this  port,  on  the  left  is  Long,  or 
Wolf  Island,  2 1  miles  in  length  and  7  miles  in  width.  The 
next  on  the  right  is 


S^aSS" 


ook  a  complete 
wrence  River,  so 
here  they  strike, 
ition.  We  have 
autes.  First,  we 
ira  Falls,  Lewis- 
i  channel  of  the 
)nil,  our  journey 
he  St.  Lawrence 
le. 


ity,  N.  Y.,  at  the 
rence  River.  It 
iwn  anJ  Ogdens- 
ler  St.  Lawrence 


left  is  Long,  or 
s  in  width.     The 


67 

CARLETON   ISLAND. 

At  the  upper  extremity,  the  land  narrows  into  a  rugged 
promontory,  ending  in  a  bluff  sixty  feet  in  height.  Here, 
lifting  their  ruined  heads  aloft,  and  plainly  visible  to  all 
passers  along  the  river,  stand  a  number  of  toppling  and 
half  ruined  chimneys.  These  may  be  seen  for  miles  around. 
So  long  have  these  old  sentinels  watched  over  the  scenes 
around  them  that  their  history  is  lost  in  the  misty  past. 
Around  them  are  the  remaining  ruins  of  an  old  fort,  sup- 
posed by  many  to  be  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Frontenac. 
Around  its  old  redoubts  and  parapets  linger  antiquated  his- 
torical legends  and  traditions  enough  to  fill  a  volume,  and 
forming  an  interesting  study.  An  ancient  well,  cut  in  the 
solid  Trenton  limestone  down  to  the  level  of  the  lake,  has 
been  converted  by  the  reckless  imaginations  of  the  natives 
into  a,  receptacle  of  the  golden  doubloons  which  the  French 
soldiers,  upon  evacuating  the  old  fort,  are  said  to  have 
thrown  there,  with  the  brass  guns  on  top  of  them.  Upoa 
either  side,  and  immediately  in  front  of  the  bluff  upon  which 
the  old  fort  stands,  is  a  quiet,  pretty  little  bay,  which  may 
once  have  supplied  a  safe  and  easy  anchorage  for  the  vessels- 
that  lay  under  its  protecting  guns. 

The  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  importance 
as  a  military  post  at  some  time,  having  been  built  upon  an 
excellent  plan  and  in  the  most  substantial  manner.  Num- 
bers of  graves  still  occupy  a  field  near  by,  the  remains  of 
the  brave  soldiers  who  once  occupied  the  fort.  The  scene 
is  of  deep  interest  to  the  students  of  history. 

About  six  miles  this  side  of  Clayton  is  Lindsay  Island, 
the  only  one  on  the  right  between  Cape  Vincent  and  Clay- 


68 

ton.  On  the  left,  two  miles  before  reaching  Clayton,  is 
Grindstone  Island,  five  miles  long.  Cross-over  channel  is 
where  the  Canadian  line  of  steamers,  leaving  Kingston  at  5 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  comes  through  into  the  American 
channel.  Before  landing  at  Clayton  is  Prospect  Park  and 
hill,  which  has  been  systematically  laid  out  for  villas  and 
camping  parties,  and  where  tourists  can  always  find  a  com- 
fortable stopping  place.  Although  we  have  been  traveling 
among  the  islands  quite  early  in  the  morning,  we  have 
noticed  that  the  people  who  occupy  the  cottages  are  all  up, 
the  ladies  sitting  on  the  piazzas  reading,  generally,  and  the 
gentlemen  out  in  small  boats  fishing.  There  are  two  kinds 
of  fishing  done  here — fishing  for  fun  and  fishing  for  fish.  I 
cannot  explain  the  distinction  better  than  to  repeat  what  a 
gentleman  who  was  traveling  with  the  party,  said  to  me  one 
afternoon  :  "  We  are  going  to  take  the  ladies  out  fishing 
to-morrow,"  he  said,  "  to  give  them  a  taste  of  the  sport. 
Then,  the  next  day,  we  are  going  out  alone  to  catch  some 
fish." 

"DON'T  DO  IT." 

This  startling  head-li.ie,  when  it  strikes  the  eye,  denotes 
that  there  is  something  to  be  said  of  personal  benefit  to  the 
reader  of  the  article,  and  we  hope  to  make  it  pleasant  as 
well  as.  profitable  to  those  who  take  the  time  to  peruse  it. 
To  begin  with,  we  desire  to  say,  don't  get  fat ;  do  not  allow 
yourself  to  develop  beyond  the  line  which  is  laid  down  for 
the  average  man  or  woman ;  because,  if  you  do,  the  average 
chair  will  not  fit,  the  average  seat  in  a  railroad  coach  will  be 
too  small ;  you  will  be  obliged  to  shrink  into  it,  and  then 
lake  up  the  seat  of  another  after  you  get  in.     The  same 


..jLAv 


liing  Clayton,  is 
-over  channel  is 
ig  Kingston  at  5 
o  the  American 
ospect  Park  and 
It  for  villas  and 
ways  find  a  com- 
e  been  traveling 
orning,  we  have 
;tages  are  all  up, 
enerally,  and  the 
Te  are  two  kinds 
ihing  for  fish.  I 
to  repeat  what  a 
f,  said  to  me  one 
adies  out  fishing 
iste  of  the  sport. 
ie  to  catch  some 


the  eye,  denotes 
nal  benefit  to  the 
:e  it  pleasant  as 
ime  to  peruse  it. 
fat ;  do  not  allow 
is  laid  down  for 
lu  do,  the  average 
oad  coach  will  be 
into  it,  and  then 
X  in.     The  same 


69 

trouble  will  occur  at  amusements,  which  ^ou  enjoy  very 
much,  but  it  so  distorts  you  to  occupy  the  chair  that  the 
pleasure  is  lost  j  the  average  door  to  a  hack  is  too  small, 
and  so  is  the  omnibus,  and  you  are  obliged  to  walk.     Here 
you  will  enjoy  it,  especially  if  it  is  a  little  slippery,  dropping 
now  and  then  three  hundred  and  thirty  pounds,  because 
your  friend  thinks  it  does  not  hurt  a  fat  man  to  fall.     You 
will  get  no  sympathy  from  any  one ;  this  I  will  guarantee, 
because  I  have  tried  it.     By  way  of  illustration,  if  I  had 
not  eaten  anything   for   three    days  but  a  yard  of  pump 
water,  and  was  to  come  to  a  friend  and  say  I  was  hungry, 
and  had  not  had  anything  to  eat  for  three  days,  he  would 
look  me  all  over,  and  in  reply  would  say :  "  Well,  I  guess 
you  can  stand  it  until  next  fall."     So  the  fleshier  you  are 
the  least  spmpathy  you  get ;  and  if  Dr.  Tanner  stood  it  for 
forty  days,  you  have  sufficient  fat  to  last  you  six  months,  to 
say  the  least.     Second,  you  become,  as  it  were,  a  curiosity, 
and   all  look   at   you  with   amazement  and  wonder  what 
circus  or  side  show   you  escaped  from,  or   to  what  dime 
museum   you  belong.      Third,    there  isn't  anything  made 
for  the  average  man  that  will  fit  you,  therefore,  everything 
must  be  made  to  order  that  you  wear,  except  a  necktie, 
pair  of  socks  or  handkerchief     The  latter  must  be  seven- 
eighths  of  a  yard  wide  in  order  to  hold  the  perspiration  it 
will  mop  up  in  once  passing  over  your  manly  brow.     Fourth, 
when  at  the  age  of  21,  and  weighing  225  pounds,  I  had  no 
trouble  in  making  a  selection  of  a  partner  for  life.     She 
climbed  the  golden  stairs  about  five  years  ago,  and  now  I 
am  fair,  fat,  funny  and  forty ;  would  pass  in  a  crowd  for  39, 
if  ray  daughter  was  not   around.     If  I  find  one  now  who 


TO 

loves  a  fat  man— I  am  a  little  too  fat — therefore,  this  world 
is  a  very  chilly  one  for  me. 

After  you  become  a  little  above  the  average  size,  as  I 
have  in  development  and  are  conspicuous,  everybody  will 
know  you  ;  if  they  do  not,  it  will  be  easy  for  them  to  find 
out ;  all  they  are  obliged  to  do  is  to  ask  anyone.  You  will 
not  know  only  those  of  your  relations  and  friends  very  near 
to  you.  Then  this  world  will  be  very  lonesome  and  cold,  or 
your  experience  will  be  different  from  mine.  It  would  be 
a  treat  (were  you  not  sensitive)  if  you  could  walk  one  block 
and  hear  the  expressions  that  come  from  the  vulgar  throng 
as  they  pass.  One  female,  with  eyes  like  two  saucers,  ex- 
claimed :  "  Glory  be  to  the  father,  Mary  Ann,  phwat's  that?" 
And  another  say  "  Got  in  himmell,  what  a  fat  man,"  or  a 
lady  of  color  declare,  '  Umph !  Umph  !  !  Dat  am  de  big- 
gest man  I  ebbcr  seed." 

FROM  BROCKVILLE  TO  MONTREAL. 

Brockville  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Brock,  who 
fell  in  the  Battle  of  Queenstown  Heights  in  1812.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
and  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  villages  in  the  province  It 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Thousand  Islands  on  an  elevation  of 
land  which  rises  from  the  river  in  a  succession  of  ridges. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  1802,  and  is  now  a  place  of  con- 
siderable importance.     The  present  population  is  about 

7,000.       ,.  ,-  !.         :,       ,,..■->;       ..;    i'-.'o      ..^'-iVfcU -.<:-;ii- 

After  leaving  the  wharf,  the  boat  passes  the  most  beauti- 
ful cliff  on  the  river,  the  Palisades  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on 
which  are  erected  magnificent  mansions  and  suburban  resi- 


pjm&&s:ti»&&:Si^^;i^!^mJMi^<^^^^^^ 


refore,  this  world 

iverage  size,  as  I 
},  everybody  will 
for  them  to  find 
nyone.  You  will 
friends  very  near 
ome  and  cold,  or 
le.  It  would  be 
d  walk  one  block 
the  vulgar  throng 
two  saucers,  ex- 
in,  phwat's  that?" 
a  fat  man,"  or  a 
Dat  am  de  big- 


3NTREAL. 

leral  Brock,  who 
ts  in  i8x2.  It  is 
Lawrence  River, 
the  province  It 
m  an  elevation  of 
ession  of  ridges, 
w  a  place  of  con- 
ulation  is  about 

the  most  beauti- 
St.  Lawrence,  on 
id  suburban  resi- 


r* 

dences  and  villas  of  Canada's  distinguished   sons.      The 
most  prominent  of  these  is  the  son  of  Sir  Hugh  Allen, 
whose  residence  is  really  superb.    The  sightseer  can  observe 
the  winding  stairs,  boat  and  bath  houses  and  other  appoint 
ments  for  recreation. 

Having  left  Brockville,  a  magnificent  view  greets  the  eye  ; 
islands  are  not  now  in  view  ;  the  river  is  a  most  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  running  perfectly  straight  for  about  sixteen 
miles  with  the  land  on  either  side  in  good  view,  for  the 
river  is  a  little  over  two  miles  wide.  Three  miles  from 
Morristown,  on  the  right,  is  a  camp  ground  of  the  Baptist 
persuasion,  mostly  from  St.  Lawrence  County.  Five  miles 
on  the  left  from  Brockville  is  Maitland.  At  this  point  is  a 
prominent  object  known  as  the  old  distillery,  whose  proprie- 
tor is  said  to  have  been  worth,  at  one  time,  a  million  dol- 
lars, but  whose  cupidity  during  "America's  unpleasantness  " 
led  him  into  selling  '•  crooked  whiskey,"  or  rather  disposing 
of  his  distillery  products  in  a  very  "  crooked  way."  With- 
out ftivmg  the  details,  the  facts  in  brief  are  :  He  antagon- 
ized the  Canadian  government  in  the  matter  of  paying 
revenue,  and  in  his  fight  for  stupid  supremacy,  he  not  only 
lost  his  distillery,  but  his  fortune  too,  and  he  and  his  family 
became  reduced  to  poverty,  and  none  of  them  remain 
around  their  former  home.  It  is  said  he  first  induced  his 
niece  to  marry  tlie  revenue  coUectoi  of  the  district,  that  he 
might  carry  on  the  nefarious  business  in  collusion  and  with- 
out detection,  but,  you  see, 

"  The  deep  laid  plans  of  mice  and  men  ftani;  aft  aglee." 

About  four  rniles  below,  on  the  left,  is  the  old  blue  stone 
church  in  the  graveyard  of  which  rests  the  remains  of  the 


■i..l 


~-  '""Sfg^ 


7a 

founder  of  Methoflism  on  this  continent,  Barbara  Heck. 
One  mile  farther,  on  the  left  is  Mc("arthy's  new  brick  brew- 
ery. Half  a  mile  beyond  is  the  celebrated  Rysdick  stock 
farm,  owned  by  J.  P.  Wiser,  M.  P.  Hen  is  owned  the 
celebrated  stallion  Rysdick,  which  cost  Mr.  Wiser  $25,000. 
It  is  a  farm  of  about  six  hundred  acres,  and  is  unquestion- 
ably the  finest  stock  farm  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 
The  thrift,  energy  and  ability  of  this  gentleman  will  not  be 
wondered  at  when  it  is  leained  that  he  is  of  American 
birth.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  the  celebrated  Labatt's  brewery 
and 

PRESCOTT. 

with  its  3,000  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  have  lost  their  grit) 
on  the  trade  of  the  river,  judging  from  the  dilapidated  con 
dition  of  the  stores,  warehouses,  etc.,  on  the  wharves.  The 
town,  however,  is  handsomely  laid  out,  has  a  fine  city  hall 
anil  market,  and  there  are  many  fine  private  residences. 
It  is  connected  with  Ottowa,  capital  of  the  Dominion,  by 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottowa  Railroad,  distance  54  miles. 
Here  man)  Im  rists  who  desire  to  visit  the  (apita!  disembark 
for  that  purpose.  We  refer  the  tourist  to  Daniel's  Hotel  as 
a  good  stopping  place.  L.  H.  Daniels  has  taken  the  hotel, 
and  spent  $8,000  in  improvements  ;  he  is  too  well  known 
to  the  traveling  public  to  need  any  praise  from  me.  Oppo- 
site is 

OGDENSBURG, 

foundei  by  Francis  Picquit  in  May,  1749.  It  now  contains 
about  10,000  i)eople,  and  of  course  ranks  as  a  city.  It  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Rome  and  Watertown,  Utica  and  Black 
River,  and  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain  railroads. 


n 


Barbara  Heck, 
new  brick  brew- 
I  Rysdick  stock 
en  IS  owned  the 
.  Wiser  $25,000. 
1  is  unqiiestion- 
ion  of  Canada, 
man  will  not  be 

is  of  American 
[,abatt's  brewery 


ve  lost  their  grin 
dilapidated  con 
i  wharves.  The 
s  a  fine  city  hail 
vate  resident  es. 
e  Dominion,  by 
stance  54  miles, 
apital  disembark 
)aniers  Hotel  as 
taken  the  hotel, 
too  well  known 
om  me.     Oppo- 


It  now  contains 
as  a  city.  It  is 
Utica  and  Black 
mplain  railroads. 


It  is  beautifully  laid  out,  well  planted  with  maple  trees,  and 
is  called  the  "  Maple  City."  It  has  a  United  States  Cus- 
tom House,  post  office,  and  a  new  opera  house,  costing 
$150,000,  six  fine  church  -difices,  water  works,  gas  works, 
a  fire  alarm  telegraph  and  two  dailv  newspapers,  and  possi- 
bly other  modern  improvements.  .-Vt  the  lower  end  of  town 
is  the  big  elevator  '>f  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain 
Railroad. 

One  mile  and  a  half  below  Prescott,  on  the  left,  is  Wind- 
mill point ;  the  old  windmill  has  been  turnt-d  into  1  light- 
louse.  Here,  in  1837,  the  "Patriots,"  under  Von  h  luUz  a 
Polish  eiale,  established  themselves,  but  from  which  thev 
were  driverv  with  severe  loss.  We  believe  this  Von  Shultz 
was  subsequently  hung  by  the  Canailian  authoritits,  and 
his  followers  banished,  probably  to  New  Jersey.  On  the 
left  a  little  below  the  light-house,  is  the  residence  and  farm 
of  W.  H.  McGannon,  the  oldest  pilot  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
river,  the  man  who  first  took  the  Passport  of  the  Richelieu 
line  down  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  in  July,  1847.  I  am  also 
indebted  to  him  for  the  correctness  of  my  New  Map  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  otiier  information  of  benefit  to  me  and 
the  public. 

Three  miles  below,  on  ihe  left,  is  Johnstown  Bay,  with 
Johnstown — not  a  very  important  trar'ing  post— overlook- 
ing. This  place  has  a  custom  house  officer,  commissioner 
of  fisheries,  mayor  and  marshal  of  the  district ;  but  these 
important  officials  are  concentrated  in  one  man. 

We  turn  here  to  the  right,  leaving  the  far-famed  Chimney 
Island  on  the  left,  on  which  are  said  tn  be  the  ruins  of  old 
Frenc  h  forts,  battlements,  etc.  The  only  remains  we  have 
discovered  of  these  supposed  formidable  defences  is  an  ex- 


I 


«jr 


■m 


74 

tensive  moat  around  the  island,  twelvr  feet  deep,  filled  with 
water.  The  chimney,  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  is 
supposed  to  he  on  the  islantl,  hot  we  have  looked  in  vain 
to  discover  it.  It  may  be,  iiowevn ,  that  it  iias  floated  down 
the  river  ;  we  will  si>eak  of  it  further  on. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  are  Tick,  or  Tier  islands. 
Some  of  the  finest  bass  fishing  in  the  river  in  -  ff  this  old 
pier.  Dr.  Melville,  of  Frescott,  the  inventor  ol  rheumatic 
victor,  and  an  enthusiastic  fisherman  of  this  section,  last 
summer  caught  ii  black  bass  weighing  scven  and  one  half 
pounds  while  enjoying  the  sport  around  the  ,''er. 

Three  miles  from  Chimney  island  in  the  distance,  is  what 
is  termed  "  the  cut,"  formini?  the  channel  between  Galop 
and  Moore's  islands.  It  was  the  former  channel  of  this  line 
of  boats,  but  the  Dominion  government  are  expending  six 
millions  of  dollars  for  the  enlargement  of  the  canals  of  this 
route,  and  the  survey  party  at  present  are  blasting  a  chan- 
nel through  the 

GALOP  RAPID, 

which  may  be  seen  in  the  distance.  The  reason  of  the 
change  of  channel  is  formed  with  an  edict  of  the  pilots  not 
to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  engineer  corps  engaged  on 
this  necessary  improvement  of  excavating  a  fifteen  foot 
channel,  to  allow  larger  boats  to  pass,  and  dispense  with  the 
use  of  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  is  the  first  and  small- 
est rapid  on  the  St  Lawrence  River,  and  as  the  Phat  Boy 
has  termed  it,  "  a  little  one  for  a  cent."  I  will,  however, 
give  you  an  idea  of  what  the  rapids  are.  All  the  rapids  on 
this  river  are  caused  by  numerous  rocks,  large  and  small,  in 
the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the  swift  current  of  water  passing 


\x"i  yr'.iV"",!*^  ijj"""" 


'■"^^^S^^^^iffiSKSSv " 


deep,  filled  with 
Ts  its  name,  is 
•  looked  in  vain 
las  Hoated  down 

jr  Pier  islands, 
r  in  off  this  old 
or  ol  rheumatic 
liis  section,  last 
jn  and  one  half 
,'ier. 

istance,  is  what 
between  Galop 
nnel  of  this  line 
:  expending  six 
le  canals  of  this 
[^lasting  a  chan- 


:  reason  of  the 
if  the  pilots  not 
rps  engaged  on 
a  fifteen  foot 
ispense  with  the 
first  and  small- 
s  the  Phat  Boy 
[  will,  however, 
11  the  rapids  on 
;e  and  small,  in 
f  water  passing 


TS 

over  these  rocks  causes  the  fearful  commotion  that  you 
observe.  Now,  to  carry  our  philosophy  a  little  farther,  we 
say  the  larger  the  rock  and  the  stronger  the  current,  the 
better  the  rapids.  No  rocks,  no  water,  no  current,  no 
rapids  !  'i'his  commotion  which  you  see  here  is  caused  by 
a  ledge  of  rocks  five  and  one-half  feet  in  height  under  nine 
feet  of  water.  You  can  see  the  swell  and  white  cap  which 
this  rock  occasions,  and  then  use  your  best  judgment  to 
determine  the  height  of  the  rocks  in  Long  Sault,  where  we 
hope  to  arrive  at  one  o'clock.  (There  are,  let  me  state 
here,  eight  rapids  on  our  trij)  to-day,  which  may  be  divided 
into  two  classes,  first  and  second.  Tiie  first  class  are  Long 
Sault,  meaning  a  long  leap  or  jump  ;  Cedar,  deriving  its 
name  from  the  trees  in  the  vicinity,  and  Lachine.  The 
second  class  are  (ialop,  meaning  a  hojjping,  jumjiing  rapid ; 
Rapid  Piatt,  r.-,eaning  iu  French,  Hat  ;  Chateau  du  Lac, 
meaning  foot  of  the  lake  ;  Split  Rock,  derived  from  a  fissure 
which  makes  the  channel,  and  the  Cascade,  from  its  resemb- 
lance to  a  cascade). 

On  the  left,  before  arriving  at  the  (ialop  rapids,  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Edwardsburg  canal.  This  canal  is  seven 
and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  is  the  first  canal  we  ar- 
rive at ;  its  terminus  is  at  Iroquois.  It  would  be  well  here 
to  say  that  we  only  have  canals  around  the  rapids,  or  where 
the  current  is  too  strong  for  a  steamer  to  ascend.  We  here 
append  a  tabular  statement  of  the 

ST.  LAWRENCE  CANALS. 

Edwardsburg  canal,  7^  miles  long,  three  locks,  14  feet 
fall  m  the  river  ;  Morrisburg  canal,  4  miles  long,  2  locks, 
II  1-6  feet  fall;  Farron's  Point  canal,  ^  mile  long,  1  lock. 


\ 


wmmm 


76 

4  feet  fall;  Cornwall  canal,  12  miles  long,  7  locks,  48  feet 
fall;  Beauharnor's  canal,  11^  miles  long,  9  locks,  84  feet 
fall ;  Lachine  canal,  9  miles  long,  5  locks,  45  feet  fall. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left  is  the  village  of  Edwards- 
burg,  now  called  Cardinal.  Here  is  located  the  Ed- 
wardsburg  .starch  factory,  the  largest  m  the  Dominion  of 
Canada.  The  president  of  the  company  is  the  Hon.  Walter 
Shanley,  of  Hoosac  Tunnel  fame.  He  was  the  great  con- 
tractor who  completed  that  wonderful  piece  of  work,  and  is 
now  manager  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad. 

Twenty  minutes  from  Edwardsburg  to  the  next  point  of 
interest. 

WHAT  I    KNOW   ABOUT   ELI    PERKINS. 

Sorrie  few  years  ago,  Mr.  Perkins  was  a  passenger  on  one 
of  the  boats.  I  do  not  know  whether  he  took  me  for  the 
captain,  director  or  manager  of  the  line  or  not,  but  he  ex- 
erted himself  considerably  to  form  my  acquaintance. 
There  was  nothing  unusual  about  that,  however,  as  there  is 
something  "distingue"  about  me,  and  when  on  the  boat  I 
stand  considerably  "  above  proof."  I  have  frequently  dined 
at  the  sa.ne  table  with  the  Governor-General,  Lord  Dufferin 
and  retinue — after  his  lordship  had  left.  But  to  return  to 
EH.  The  day  in  question  I  was  upon  the  deck  of  the  boat 
as  usual,  describing  the  points  of  interest,  especially  the  one 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  where  the  St.  Regis  Indians  come 
year  after  year  to  gather  the  famous  elm  and  basswood  with 
which  to  make  their  celebrated  baskets.  I  was  delineating 
at  some  length  upon  the  noble  red  man,  when  Eli  came  to 
me  and  said,  I  will  write  you  a  verse  of  poetry  about  that. 


vm- 


'■'Wg'Wi<gT*'yw» 


'  locks,  48  feet 
locks,  84  feet 
5  feet  fall. 

e  of  Edwards- 
;ated  the  Ed- 
j  Dominion  of 
e  Hon.  Walter 
the  great  con- 
of  work,  and  is 
a  Railroad. 

:  next  point  of 


PERKINS. 

ssenger  on  one 
ook  me  for  the 
not,  but  he  e.K- 

acquaintance. 
ver,  as  there  is 
jn  the  boat  I 
equently  dined 

Lord  Dufferin 
at  to  return  to 
;ck  of  the  boat 
ecially  the  one 

Indians  come 
bassvvood  with 
V3is  delineating 
sn  Eli  came  to 
try  about  that. 


^^iP^^^^P^^^^I^f^^^^S^^^»^^F|^^^^^^^^i^W^^|^^^P 


77 

Glad  to  get  a  memento  in  that  shape  from  so  distinguished 
an  individual,  who  had  so  often  been  accused  of  being  witty, 
I  said  it  would  please  me  very  much.     Here  is  the  verse : 

"  Once  here  the  noble  red  man  took  his  deliKbts, 
Fit,  flshed  and  bled  ; 
Now  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  white, 
With  nary  a  red." 

I  thanked  him  very  profusely,  and  on  subsequent  occa- 
sions took  great  delight  in  repeating  the  lines  to  the  pas- 
sengers— never  forgetting  for  a  moment  to  remind  them 
that  they  were  written  for  me  by  the  alleged  American 
humorist.  One  day.  after  delivering  myself  of  the  poetry 
and  repeating  to  the  passengers  that  it  was  written  by  the 
celebrated  poet,  writer,  humorist  and  lecturer,  Eli  Perkins, 
I  was  approached  by  an  exceedingly  polite  and  affable  gen- 
tleman, whom  1  learned  was  Mr.  John  H.  Rochester,  of 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who  asked  if  he  understood  me  correctly 
in  attributing  the  authorship  of  the  lines  quoted  to  Mr. 
Perkins.  I  assured  him  that  he  had  written  them  expressly 
for  me,  and  produced  in  Eli's  own  handwriting  the  original 
copy.  With  a  subdued  smile  resting  upon  his  counten- 
ance, Mr.  Rochester  informed  me  that  there  must  be  an 
error  somewhere,  as  a  gentleman,  a  Mr.  Fletcher  had  writ- 
ten a  poem  in  1834,  in  which  the  exact  verse  occurred,  and 
he  proceeded  to  repeat  the  verse  from  memory.  This  took 
me  slightly  back,  and  I  subsequently  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion with  "  my  friend  "  of  the  Oi/  City  Derrick,  that  a  cab- 
bage leaf  was  never  more  at  home  than  when  in  the  crown 
of  "  Uli  Perkins'  hat."  After  that  I  had  no  more  use  for  the 
poem,  but  determined  if  I  ever  met  "  Uli "  I  should  ca',1  to 
his   mind   the   circumstances   connected   with    "  his   little 


78 

poem."  I  had  not  long  to  wait,  for  one  day,  while  in 
Evansvillc,  Indiana,  at  the  St.  George  Hotel,  I  met  the 
gentleman,  and  recalled  the  circumstance  connected  with 
the  little  verse,  and  he,  with  a  perfect  air  of  nonchalance, 
said  that  he  had  never  given  it  a  thought  since — dashed  it 
off  in  a  minute.  I  told  him  how  remarkable  it  was  that 
great  minds  often  run  in  the  same  channel,  and  related  my 
exptrience  with  his  gem.  He  scowled,  and,  turning  on  his 
heel,  said  it  was  indeed  a  singular  word  for  word  resem- 
blance, but  changed  the  subject  at  once,  and  asked  me  to  his 
room  on  the  following  morning,  which  invitation  I  cheerfully 
accepted,  doting  all  the  evening  upon  having  a  nice  time, 
and  swopping  a  few  gags,  etc.,  eta;  but  my  hopes  were 
blighted,  for  the  next  morning  I  was  informed  of  his  very 
early  departure— gone  up  to  lie  to  the  people  of  Rockport, 
I  was  told.  "  Uli "  is  a  great  man,  and  contracts  a  larger 
amount  of  businc."  upon  a  very  small  amount  of  capital 
than  any  public  chxracter  I  know  of  When  Eli  reads 
this  I  expect  he  will  lead  his  big  gun — not  intellectual,  but 
otherA^ise— and  come  for  me.  I  will,  therefore,  give  him 
a  pointer  in  advance ;  there  won't  anything  scare  me  but  a 
stomach  pump. 

Distinguished  among  Indian  names  is  that  of  Iroquois. 
Here  it  names  a  village,  formerly  known  as  Matilda ;  but, 
like  all  other  good  Matildas  do,  she  changed  her  name  to 
Iroquois,  in  order  to  preserve  the  name.  The  Iroquois 
Indians  formerly  owned  this  section  of  country.  One  and 
a  half  miles  below  this  village  is  the  narrowest  point  in  the 
St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Kingston  to  the  gulf  This  broad 
expanse  of  water  we  are  just  passing,  and  the  one  we  arrive 
at  immediately  after  leaving  the  point,  are  very  shallow,. 


79 


day,  while  in 
tel,  I  met  the 
;onnected  with 
f  nonchalance, 
ice — dashed  it 
ble  it  was  that 
ind  related  my 
turning  on  his 
r  word  resem- 
isked  me  to  his 
an  I  cheerfully 
ig  a  nice  time, 
ly  hopes  were 
;d  of  his  very 
:  of  Rockport, 
itracts  a  larger 
unt  of  capital 
hen  Eli  reads 
itellectual,  but 
"ore,  give  him 
care  me  but  a 

t  of  Iroquois. 

Matilda;  but, 

her  name  to 

The  Iroquois 

try.     One  and 

St  point  in  the 

f.    This  broad 

one  we  arrive 

very  shallow,. 


consequently  holds  the  water  in  check  at  the  point — the 
depth  of  water  in  the  shallow  places  being  about  22  feet, 
while  at  the  point  it  is  84  feet.  Width  of  the  river  1,140 
feet — 1 70  feet  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

On  the  right  in  the  narrowest  portion  of  the  river  is  Cedar 
Pomt.  On  the  left  is  a  small  bluff,  formerly  called  Hemlock 
Point,  on  account  of  a  fine  hemlock  standing  there ;  but  on 
one  fine  morning  the  hemlock,  the  tree  and  the  point  all  slid 
into  the  river,  and  have  not  yet  returned.  About  fifteen 
feet  back  from  the  point  is  a  rail  fence,  which  is  outside  of 
the  earth-works  that  were  thrown  up  in  1812-13,  and  bat- 
teries were  erected  on  Cedar  Point. 

On  the  left  is  the  main  shore  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
with  a  population  of  over  five  millions.  On  the  right  is  the 
main  shore  of  the  United  States  of  America,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  over  fifty  millions.  When  the  five  milUons  want 
chose  fifty  millions  all  they  will  be  obliged  to  do  is  to  walk 
over  and  take  them.  Then  will  be  verified  that  beautiful 
passage  in  Holy  Writ  which  says,  "  One  shall  chase  a  thou- 
sand and  two  put  ten  thousand  to  flight.     Sing  !  " 

This  was  really  a  strong  point,  and  was  fortified  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  by  the  opposing  parties.  From  the  fact 
of  the  successful  fortifications  by  the  Americans  the  Rideau 
Canal  ewes  its  origin.  Guns  and  stores  or  merchandise 
could  not  be  taken  up  the  river.  It  was  conceived  by 
Colonel  By,  of  the  Engineer  corps,  that  a  new  canal  would 
obviate  the  difficulty,  and  all  his  resources  were  immediately 
put  into  requisition,  and  the  canal  was  completed  at  a  cost 
of  $5,000,000.  It  extends  from  Ottawa,  formerly  By-town, 
to  Kingston,  and  is  still  in  use.      ■  t*^  *  .{; 


^^^x^^^r 


m 


80 

Ten  minutes  from  here  to  the  next  point  of  interest.  On 
the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morrisburg  Canal,  the  second 
canal  in  the  chain,  but  it  is  not  used  by  this  lind  of  boats. 
All  tows  and  sailing  vessels  have  to  use  the  canal.  In  the 
distance  front  is  Rapid  Piatt ;  on  the  right  is  Ogden's 
Island,  the  finest  wooded  island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 
Beyond  is  Waddington,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y.  In 
front  is  this  rapid  we  have  just  named ;  it  is  the  second  one, 
and  is  a  "  little  one  for  two  cents."  It  has,  however,  eight 
feet  more  descent  than  the  first,  but  is  only  a  one  cent 
desc enter  rapid. 

MORRISBURG. 

After  passing  the  point,  Morrisburg  comes  into  view  on 
the  left — the  prettiest  village  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 
Look  at  its  churches,  public  buildings,  private  residences, 
and  hotels  (the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  kept  by  W.  H.  Mc 
Gannon  and  Brother,  and  I  can  say  cheerfully  no  better 
hotel  in  town),  that  greet  the  eye,  for  we  are  still  in  the 
Province  of  Ontario.  At  half  past  three  o'clock  we  enter 
the  Province  of  Quebec.  You  will  have  a  good  chance  then 
to  compare  the  difference  between  the  two  Provinces. 
Your  especial  attention  is  called  to  this  now,  that  you  may 
be  prepared  to  scan  the  change  you  will  not  fail  to  observe 
Before  reaching  Morrisburg  is  Doran's  Island,  which  was 
rented  by  Mr.  Oz  Doran  of  the  St.  Regis  Indians  for  one 
dollar  per  year,  and  they  come  every  year  60  miles  to  col- 
lect one  dollar.  Opposite  Morrisburg  is  Dry  Island,  used 
for  picnics,  etc. 

One  hour  from  this  point  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  We 
speak  of  this  here,  for  it  is  about  dinner  time,  and  if  you  are 


-gg3/ga"""' 


8t 


)f  interest.  On 
inal,  the  second 
is  lind  of  boats, 
canal.  In  the 
ight  is  Ogden's 
awrence  River, 
nty,  N.  Y.  In 
the  second  one, 
,  however,  eight 
nly  a  one  cent 


es  into  view  on 
ion  of  Canada, 
vate  residences, 

by  W.  H.  Mc 
;rfully  no  better 

are  still  in  the 
clock  we  enter 
3od  chance  then 
two  Provinces. 
J,  that  you  may 
t  fail  to  observe 
and,  which  was 
Indians  for  one 
3o  miles  to  col- 
>ry  Island,  used 

lit  Rapids.  We 
:,  and  if  you  are 


lucky  enough  to  secure  a  seat  at  the  first  table  you  will  lose 
no  point  of  interest,  for  it  is  presumable  you  will  finish 
within  the  hour. 

THE  CUISINE  ON  1  HE  BOAT. 

It  will  not  be  amiss  here  to  state  that  the  meals  were 
formerly  served  on  the  American  plan,  and  were  served  in 
the  upper  saloon,  and  to  give  you  but  a  faint  idea  of  the 
commotion  created  by  the  passengers  when  there  was  one 
more  person  on  board  than  seats  at  the  table  would  require 
a  volume  ten  times  this  size  to  describe.  Therefore,  please 
excuse  me  if  I  relate  by  way  of  illustration  what  an  emin- 
ent French  writer  said  on  the  subject :  "  The  waiters,  like 
little  puppets,  would  bob  up  serenely  at  any  time  and  place, 
drop  a  dish  or  whatever  the  hand  contained,  and  was  as 
soon  out  of  sight.  This  continued  for  about  one  hour, 
while  we  were  seated  back  against  the  cabin  wall,  with  just 
space  enough  for  the  waiter  to  pass  between  us  and  the 
table.  When  the  signal  was  given  everybody  made  a  rush 
for  the  table,  and  if  the  scene  depicted  could  only  be  de- 
scribed humorously  or  otherwise  I  would  like  to  read  ,it." 
But  the  writer  said  it  re  ninded  him  of  the  famous  picture 
in  her  Majesty's  gallery,  "  The  Rape  of  the  Sabines."  (I 
have  never  seen  the  picture,  but  presume  it  is  that  of  a 
beautiful  female  poised  as  a  central  figure,  and  about  ten 
soldiers  ready  to  embrace  her  on  a  given  signal.)  Things 
have  changed,  however,  and  this  season  the  meals  will  be 
served  on  the  American  plan,  run  by  the  company,  who 
have  secured  the  best  stewards,  etc.,  to  superintend  the 
service  to  the  end,  that  everyone  may  be  pleased.  The 
upper  saloon  will  not  be  used,  but  what  was  formerly  known 


^-Jps^"-^-'*'-'"'""" 


•fmm' 


mae&m 


■aaiBi 


:i-m-- 


82 


as  the  ladies'  cabin  will  be  the  dining-room,  which  gives  the 
whole  saloon  as  a  promenade  and  place  of  repose  and  rest 
for  the  passengers.     I  am  positive  the  change  will  be  ac 
ceptable. 

About  a  mile  below  Morrisburg,  on  the  right,  is  Goose- 
neck Island,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  the  neck  of 
a  goose  ;  the  upper  end  is  the  neck  ;  the  narrative  is  about 
nine  miles  long.     Five  miles  from  Morrisburg  to 

CHRYSLER'S  FARM, 

memorable  for  the  battle  fought  on  this  ground  in  the  year 
1813.  The  Americans  were  the  attacking  party  on  this  oc- 
casion, having  arisen  early  in  the  morning,  crossed  the  river 
into  the  little  bay,  landed,  and  immediately  gone  into  the 
contest  by  attacking  the  little  house.  The  fight  was  des- 
perate, lasting  until  eleven  o'clock,  when  the  Americans, 
under  General  WiUiams,  were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter. 
The  house  was  completely  riddled  with  bullets.  It  has  since 
been  torn  down,  and  the  chimney  left  as  a  monument  to 
the  battle.  They  retreated  in  good  order,  re-crossed  the 
river,  and  remained,  having  abandoned  the  trip  to  Montr«p,l 
which  they  intended.  I  draw  this  mild,  because  I  am  one 
of  "  God's  people  "  myself  :^      v ,; :      r+  ■  ■? 

Next  in  interest  is  Farron's  Point,  opposite  which  is 
Croyl's  Island.  Six  minutes  from  here  to  Long  Sault 
Rapids  ;  we  pass  on  the  left  Harrison's  Landing. 


LONG  SAULT  ISLAND. 

At  this  point  there  are  really  two  channels,  the  American 
channel  beir.g  on  the  right  of  Long  Sault  Island,  the  rapids 
forming  the  Canadian  channel,  and  are  on  the  left  of  the 


W^jS/bJt>f^-i 


which  gives  the 
cpose  and  rest 
ige  will  be  ac 

ight,  is  Goose- 
to  the  neck  of 
rrative  is  about 
■g  to 


md  in  the  year 

arty  on  this  oc- 

Tossed  the  river 

gone  into  the 

fight  was  des- 

;he  Americans, 

great  slaughter. 

ts.   It  has  since 

monument  to 

re-crossed   the 

rip  to  Montreal 

ause  I  am  one 

josite  which  is 
o  Long  Sault 
ding. 

D. 

3,  the  American 

land,  the  rapids 

the  left  of  the 


island.  The  distinguishing  feature  about  the  American 
channel  is  while  it  is  swift  in  current,  it  has*  no  rapids  worthy 
of  note,  and  the  channel  is  used  for  tows,  etc.,  and  all  the 
rafts  naturally  prefer  this  way,  because  it  would  be  impos- 
sible for  them  to  go  down  the  Long  Sault. 

In  the  distant  front  observe  a  light-house  at  the  head  of 
the  Cornwall  canal.  This  canal  is  twelve  miles  in  length, 
and  passes  around  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  •    .    , 

The  boats  are  steered  from  landmarks  on  shore  ;  by  that 
small  ball  you  see  on  the  end  of  the  pole,  which  is  the  bow- 
sprit. The  target  that  you  see  in  the  distance  is  used  by 
the  pilot  to  get  his  position  in  Long  Sault  Rapids.  These 
taigets  will  be  seen  frequently  as  you  progress,  and  as  they 
all  answer  the  same  purpose,  this  reference  to  them  will 
suffice. 

LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's  Landing  on  the  left  was  formerly  a  very  im- 
portant point  on  this  line,  as  it  was  the  foot  of  navigation 
before  the  canal  was  completed  some  forty  years  ago.  Few 
changes  have  taken  place  since,  that  are  apparent  to  the 
eye.  The  Long  Sault  is  the  first  one  of  the  first-class  rapids, 
and  the  third  one  in  line  proceeding  down  the  river,  and  as 
we  set  a  price  on  the  other  two,  y(iu  can  set  your  own  price 
on  this  one.  A  description  of  these  rapids  has  been  given 
from  time  immemorial ;  it  does  not  behoove  us  to  give  any 
graphic  or  colored  description  of  this  scene,  although  we 
might  do  so  satisfactorily,  having  seen  depicted  on  the 
countenances  of  thousands  of  passengers  who  have  passed 
tins  way  everything  in  nature  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridicu- 


mi 


84 

lous  as  well  as  between  the  two,  and  as  each  individual's 
feelings  differ,  no  one  description  would  do  the  subject  jus- 
tice. One  writer  said,  "  it  was  lilte  sliding  down  hill  on  a 
steamboat."  Another  said  he  felt  as  if  he  was  being  unglued! 
A  third  said  he  felt  as  if  he  had  taken  a  large  dose  of  epecac. 
Still  another  as  if  he  was  on  a  ship  at  sea  in  a  storm. 
And  yet  one  more  was  so  exhilerated  that  he  imagined  he 
owned  Maud  S.  and  would  like  to  spend  his  days  on  the 
rapids.  Another  party  who  had  ridiculed  the  trip  a  good 
deal,  until  the  spray  began  to  cover  the  deck,  wetting  them 
to  the  skin,  drenching  their  store  clothes,  which,  when  dried, 
revealed  awkward  misfits,  exclaimed  that  *'  it  was  the  grand- 
est sight  they  ever  witnessed." 

AN  INCIDENT  WORTHY  OF  NOTE 

Occurred  at  this  point  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  rapids. 
Mr.  Isaac  Johnson  and  wife,  of  Spuyten  Duyval,  N.  Y.,  and 
some  friends  were  in  the  babit  of  coming  to  this  section 
once  every  year,  (as  he  also  is  at  a  great  many  other  places 
in  this  country),  which  is  noted  for  its  fishing,  being  quite  an 
enthusiast  in  the  art.  His  guide,  however,  this  year  had 
built  a  new  boat  much  larger  than  of  previous  years,  conse- 
quently they  ventured  a  Utile  farther  into  the  boiling  caldron 
of  remorseless  strife  and  were  upset,  (just  take  a  view  of  the 
position  dear  reader,)  lucky  for  Mr.  Johnson  he  always  car- 
ries a  rubber  bag  which  he  uses  for  a  cushion  whenever  he 
is  required  to  sit  long  in  a  boat,  being  a  heavy  man  as  well 
as  tall.  His  first  thought  was  to  grasp  the  cushion,  which 
acted  as  a  life  preserver  ;  his  wife  clung  to  his  neck,  which 
forced  him  under  water  and  in  order  to  get  breath  he  forced 
the  cushion  under  water  which  allowed  his  head  to  appear 


^^••^^mm^^^m^mi^^'i^i^'  M^mi^^mtmm^mmmmmM'' 


ach  individual's 
the  subject  jus- 
;  down  hill  on  a 
5  being  unglued! 
;  dose  of  epecac. 
sea  in  a  storm, 
he  imagined  he 
his  days  on  the 
the  trip  a  good 
;k,  wetting  them 
lich,  when  dried, 
it  was  the  grand- 

F  NOTE 

je  of  the  rapids, 
lyval,  N.  Y.,  and 
I  to  this  section 
any  other  places 
g,  being  quite  an 
r,  this  year  had 
ous  years,  conse- 
e  boiling  caldron 
ake  a  view  of  the 
n  he  always  car- 
lion  whenever  he 
;avy  man  as  well 
e  cushion,  which 
)  his  neck,  which 
breath  he  forced 
is  head  to  appear 


85 

above  the  wave  and  current,  in  this  way  they  floated  two 
miles  and  were  rescued  by  the  guide  and  boat  coming  along, 
and  with  clasped  hands  over  the  overturned  boat  were 
towed  to  shore.  Mr.  Johnson  beci.ne  blind  and  fainted 
from  exhaustion,  his  plucky  little  wife  was  as  firm  and  cool 
as  a  soldier  under  fire. 

I  could  enlarge  upon  other  descriptions,  but  prefer  to  give 
the  Phat  Boy  a  privilege  to  relate  a  few  facts — no  "  taffy." 
All  the  boats  of  this  line  are  built  of  Bessemer  steel  or  iron, 
with  three  and  one-half  inches  of  !iii  rivited  close  to  the 
iron  on  the  bottom  outside  to  prevent  accidents  if  we  should 
strike  against  a  rock.  This  precaution  was  found  necessary, 
because  the  first  iron  boat  that  struck  a  rock  became  a  total 
wreck.  With  the  protection  of  elm  no  injury  has  resulted 
from  the  occasional  striking  of  the  boats  against  the  rocks. 
There  is  no  danger,  however,  in  this  rapid,  for  the  water  in 
the  shallowest  place  is  thirteen  and  one  half  feet,  and  we 
are  drawing  about  seven  feet.  During  our  passage  through 
all  the  rapids,  we  have  four  men  at  the  wheel,  and  four  men 
at  the  tiller  aft,  who  assist  the  men  at  the  wheel.  Any  ac- 
cident that  should  happen  to  the  chain  or  the  wheel,  the 
pilot  immediately  goes  to  the  right  hand  of  the  tiller. 

The  Long  Sault  rapid  is  nine  miles  in  length  ;  three  miles 
of  boistttrous  commotion  :  six  miles  of  current  and  sudden, 
sharp  turns.  When  we  fi'st  enter  the  rapid,  the  steam  on 
board  of  the  boat  is  slowed  down  until  she  gets  her  position 
in  the  rapids,  as  she  draws  less  water  than  when  under  full 
head  of  steam.  We  are  then  compelled  to  put  on  full  steam 
as  the  boat  must  go  faster  than  the  current  in  order  to  ob- 
tain steerage  way.     Many  suppose  that  no  steam  is  used 


86 

through  the  rapids,  which  is  an  error.  If  we  were  to  at- 
tempt to  go  down  without  any  propelling  power,  we  would 
be  at  the  mercy  of  the  current  of  this  stupendous  agitation 
called  rapids.  One  couldn't  tell  which  end  of  the  boat 
would  be  first,  and  it  is  presumable  that  this  would  be  any- 
thing but  pleasant  to  the  passenger,  for  he  would  go  down 
the  same  as  a  log,  no  one  could  tell  which  end  of  the  boat 
would  be  first,  anything  but  pleasure  to  passengers. 

When  we  first  enter  this  rapid,  the  finest  view  is  obtained 
on  the  right  side  of  the  boat.  It  is  expected,  however,  that 
the  passengers  will  distribute  themselves  equally  on  either 
side  to  keep  the  boat  in  good  trim  ;  the  Captain  generally 
uses  the  "  Phat  Boy  "  for  this  purpose  ;  when  he  is  not  on 
board,  the  passengers  are  expected  to  distribute  themselves. 
The  view,  however,  soon  changes  to  the  left,  and  when 
nearing  the  point,  the  swell  and  white  caps  run  from  seven 
to  eleven  feet  in  height. 

We  have  already  explained  the  causes  of  the  rapids. 
Now,  will  any  one  please  explain  to  me  what  is  the  height 
of  the  rocks  which  create  this  commotion,  and  •'t  the  same 
time  set  their  price  on  this  rapid.  After  passing  this  point 
and  the  swell  and  white  caps  that  wc  have  been  describing, 
on  the  left  is  the  passage  to  the  Canadian  channel  of  this 
river,  which  forms  Earnhardt's  island.  On  the  right  is  the 
American  channel.  This  was  formerly  used  by  boats  before 
they  came  down  the  Long  Sault,  which  for  a  long  time  was 
known  as  the  lost  channel.  This  channel  having  been  lost 
for  some  years  it  was  discovered  by  Captain  Rankin,  who 
received  for  that  service  a  magnificent  silver  watch,  the 
value  of  which  at  the  present  day  would  be  about  $6.50. 


we  were  to  at- 
ower,  we  would 
;ndous  agitation 
nd  of  the  boat 
IS  would  be  any- 
would  go  down 
end  of  the  boat 
isengers. 

view  is  obtained 
d,  however,  that 
qually  on  either 
aptain  generally 
len  he  is  not  on 
bute  themselves, 
left,  and  when 
run  from  seven 

i  of  the  rapids, 
at  is  the  height 
ind  ''t  the  same 
assine  this  point 
been  describing, 

channel  of  this 
I  the  right  is  the 

by  boats  before 
a  long  time  was 
having  been  lost 
.in  Rankin,  who 
ilver  watch,  the 
3e  about  $6.50. 


The  first  steamboat  of  this  line  that  passed  through  the 
Long  Sault,  was  the  Passport,  in  1847,  and  the  pilot  was 
W.  H.  Mcdanon,  who  is  still  in  the  employ  of  the  company. 
The  soundings  were  made  by  scows  and  rafts,  with  poles 
attached  to  the  sides,  of  8  to  15  feet  in  length,  and  as  either 
of  these  met  an  obstruction  and  became  dislodged  or  broken 
off,  the  depth  of  water  was  ascertained  and  a  record  made. 
The  propelling  power  of  these  scows  or  rafts  was  oars  or 
large  paddles,  worked  by  from  10  to  40  men  as  the  necessi- 
ties of  each  required. 

The  steamer  Gill  was  the  first  boat  through  the  rapids, 
and  went  down  more  by  accident  than  otherwise,  but  it 
demonstrated  the  certainty  of  a  channel. 

Barnhardt's  island  on  the  left,  j^  miles  in  length  by  4J^ 
miles  in  width,  belongs  to  the  United  States.  On  the  right 
is  the  main  land,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  Y.  Both  sides 
of  the  river  for  the  next  seven  miles  belong  to  the  United 
States.  The  King  of  Holland,  who  was  the  arbitrator  of 
the  treaty  of  181 2,  from  charts,  maps,  etc.,  furnished  him, 
supposed  that  the  main  channel  of  the  river  passed  around 
that  island  on  the  left.  He  was  mistaken,  however ;  this  is 
the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  the  only  navigable  one  ; 
the  Canadian  channel  containing  only  about  3^  or  4  feet  of 
water. 

Durmg  the  next  eight  minutes  we  pass  three  very  sudden 
turns  in  the  river  ;  the  first  turn  is  to  the  right ;  then  to  the 
left;  next  to  the  right  again;  the  second  turn  being  the 
sharpest  on  the  St.  Lawrence  river ;  at  direct  angles  turning 
to  the  left.  Passengers  on  the  left  side  of  the  boat,  by  look- 
ing backward,  have  a  fine  view  of  that  portion  of  the  river 


■.■m 


1 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


4^0 


G>< 


1.0 


'"ilia  iM 


IIIIM 

m 


I.I 


2.2 


2.0 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4      1.6 

1 

^                                                                                                       A"                                                                                                        te 

Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


,\ 


'Oi 


,V 


c< 


wiV 


^ 


^^ 


o 


^ 


4^   > 


6^ 


■%^ 


*%" 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREtT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


^^-^ 


i 


■iji^ii  ,» ' ;.,i,l"ii'"  »  '» m  'I'V  J'li.v  "  ?.    ,j^?■-'^^^«Ji■^^j-^;^^iW.rB^I,^^V:W.jy'gy^^gi^i* 


1 


L& 


%?< 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institui  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


O 


\ 


88 


we  have  just  passed,  and  looking  forward  see  where  we  are 
compelled  to  go,  and  more  easily  note  the  sharpness  of  the 
turn.  Rafts  entering  the  American  channel  at  the  foot  of 
the  Long  Sault  rapids  will  drift  nine  miles  in  forty  minutes, 
and  are  often  thrown  on  shore  on  either  side  in  making  this 
sudden  turn.  After  making  our  next  turn  to  the  right,  by 
looking  in  the  distance  front,  between  the  narrow  point,  wi'l 
discover  what  is  known  as  "The  Ci-ab."  The  current 
crosses  here  from  right  to  left,  then  left  to  right,  and  froth 
right  to  left  forming  the  letter  Z.  Rafts  get  entangled  in 
this  portion  of  the  river,  and  are  easily  torn  to  pieces. 

There  is  a  ferry  boat  plys  between  this  point,  on  the  right 
Macenia  point  and  Cornwall  point  on  the  left,  touching  at 
two  places  on  Earnhardt's  island,  to  convey  passengers  who 
are  desirous  of  visiting  Macena  Springs,  six  miles  distant. 
The  steamboat  is  a  side-wheeler,  two  horses  tread  the  power 
that  revolves  the  wheels  ;  it  is  therefore  a  two-horse  power 
boat  J  they  convey  the  steam  on  board  in  a  bag  well  filled 
with  oats.  The  deck  hand  is  the  cook ;  the  cook  is  the 
engineer ,  the  engineer  is  the  mate,  and  the  mate  is  the  cap- 
tain ;  one  man  supreme  command  ;  no  mutiny  ever  occurs, 
unless  the  mule  should  kick  the  deck  hand  overboard — that 
would  be  a  "  mulity"  would  it  not  ? 

On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Canadian  channel  at 
the  end  of  Earnhardt's  island.  Two  miles  below  on  the 
right  is  the  last  of  the  American  shoie  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
lat.  45  °  N.  Some  few  years  ago  I  was  presented  by  Messrs. 
W.  H.  Merrill  &  Co.,  88  St.  James  St.,  Montreal,  one  of  the 
dry  gocdb  firms  in  the  city,  with  an  American  flag,  fifteen 
feet  in  length,  to  designate  the  last  of  the  United  States 


i&a&sa^^ 


;.si;#4»^s.'ii3««»a«<K*^^S!isMti*s^'?- 


see  where  we  are 
;  sharpness  of  the 
nel  at  the  foot  of 
1  in  forty  minutes, 
ide  in  making  this 
n  to  the  right,  by 
narrow  point,  wi'l 
,b."  The  current 
;o  right,  and  from 
;  get  entangled  in 
n  to  pieces. 

Doint,  on  the  right 
;  left,  touching  at 
iy  passengers  who 
six  miles  distant. 
:s  tread  the  power 
I  two-horse  power 
n  a  bag  well  filled 
;  the  cook  is  the 
e  mate  is  the  cap- 
utiny  ever  occurs, 
1  overboard — that 

ladian  channel  at 
les  below  on  the 
the  St.  Lawrence, 
sented  by  Messrs. 
)ntreal,  one  of  the 
;rican  flag,  fifteen 
he  United  States 


shore  on  this  river.  Through  the  assistance  of  a  friend  at 
Cornwall,  and  thirteen  dollars  in  cash,  I  succeeded  in  get- 
ving  the  flag  in  position.  It  remained  there  for  about  ten 
days,  when  a  party  of  Si:.  Regis  Indians,  who  occupy  a  re 
servation  six  miles  distant  the  other  side  of  the  Island— four 
of  them  came  over  to  the  point,  filled  themselves  full  of 
"  ice  water,"  climbed  up  the  fl?g-staff  and  took  down  the 
flag.  They  cut  it  up  into  three  or  four  suits  of  clothes,  and 
went  around  this  vicinity  for  about  a  week  as  full  as  a  boiled 
oyster,  singing  "  Hail  Columbia,  right  side  up,"  rolled  up 
in  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  full  of  fire-water,  was  said  to  be 
the  happiest  moment  of  their  lives,  and  I  have  no  reason  to 
doubt  it. 

That  portion  of  the  river  on  the  right  is  the  dividing  line 
for  five  miles;  afterwards  an  iron  fence  or  posts,  set  at 
equal  distance  apart,  mark  the  boundary  line.  The  river 
passing  around  that  way  forms  Cornwall  Island,  about  six 
miles  wide.  Rafts  enter  this  portion  of  the  rivt  r  where  the 
Racket  River  empties  in,  and  are  here  refitted  preparatory 
-o  being  towed  through  the  lake.  Both  sides  of  the  river 
from  this  point  downward  belong  to  the  Dominion  of 
Canada. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left  is  Cornwall,  a  village  of  5,000 
people,  with  the  largest  cotton  and  woolen  mills  in  the 
Dominion.  Since  the  protective  tariff  was  inaugurated  by 
the  Dominion  Parliament  these  industries  have  thrived  won- 
derfully, and  the  town  is  correspondingly  prosperous.  Just 
before  landing,  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  both  the  old  and 
new  Cornwall  Canals.  Looking  at  the  old  canal  lock,  and 
learning  its  dimensions,  it  is  obvous  why  the  steamers  are 
their  present  size  and  no  longer.     These  steamers  are  the 


r  - 


tmmk'&m^tg0iimi;iMM--&i»^^imM^M^^^^M^i^^^^ 


mmsm 


SSESSOPBBSl 


90 

limit  which  the  locks  will  admit,  hence  if  they  were  five  feet 
longer  or  a  trifle  wider,  they  would  be  compelled  to  remain 
at  Montrea',  not  being  able  to  work  through  the  locks.  The 
new  canal,  which  is  alongside  of  the  old  one,  will  have  locks 
100  feet  longer  than  the  present  one  in  use,  consequently 
much  larger  boats  will  be  able  to  ply  the  river.  The  old 
canal  was  considered  amply  large  when  built ;  it  was  not 
supposed  that  the  travel  on  the  St.  Lawrence  would  ever 
reach  its  present  and  constantly  increasing  numbers. 

After  leaving  Cornwall,  on  the  right  is  Cornwall  Island, 
6  miles  wide.  Just  beyond  the  island,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river,  is  St.  Regis,  an  old  Indian  village,  which  cannot 
be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  But  there  is  just 
one  point  where  the  church  roof  can  be  observed  for  a  mo 
ment  or  so.  There  is,  however,  a  tradition  ^/orth  relating 
here:  The  bell  hanging  in  this  church  is  associated 
with  a  deed  of  genuine  Indian  revenge.  On  its  way  from 
France  it  was  captured  by  an  English  cruiser  and  taken 
into  Salem,  Massachusetts,  where  it  was  sold  to  the  church 
a'v  Deerfield,  in  the  same  State.  The  Indians,  hearing  of 
the  destination  of  their  bell,  set  out  for  Deerfield,  attacked 
the  town,  killed  forty  seven  of  the  inhabitants,  and  took  112 
captives,  among  whom  was  the  pastor  and  his  family. 
The  bell  was  then  taken  down  and  conveyed  to  St.  Regis, 
where  it  now  hangs. 

During  the  next  lo  miles  of  our  trip  the  river  is  beauti- 
fully studded  with  Islands,  and  resembles  the  Thousand 
Islands  scenery  very  much.  Many  of  these  islands  are  in- 
habited ;  some  of  them  elegantly  laid  out  with  drives,  etc. 
Rev.  Mr.  Dickinson's,  called  after  himself,  has  a  dock,  at 


'  '"'v^^^mx^^wsiM. 


■f;.^--  .iliTi'^ft^^s"  j/«>s^jsr4i,^^)i2iS' 


they  were  five  feet 
mpelled  to  remain 
gh  the  locks.  The 
me,  will  have  locks 

nse,  consequently 
le  river.     The  old 

built ;  it  was  not 
rrence  would  ever 
g  numbers. 

s  Cornwall  Island, 
I  the  right  bank  of 
lage,  which  cannot 
But  there  is  just 
observed  for  a  mo 
tion  i/orth  relating 
irch  is  associated 
On  its  way  from 
cruiser  and  taken 
sold  to  the  church 
Indians,  hearing  of 
Deerfield,  attacked 
;ants,  and  took  1 1 2 
Dr  and  his  family, 
'eyed  to  St.  Regis, 

the  river  is  beauti- 
)les  the  Thousand 
lese  islands  are  in- 
>ut  with  drives,  etc. 
;elf,  has  a  deck,  at 


9» 

which  steamers  of  this  size  can  land ;  it  has  a  hotel,  num- 
ber of  cottages,  and  is  quite  a  gay  place  in  summer.     On 
the  left  is  Summers  Town,    beyond  which   is   Hamilton's 
Island.     Just  before  reaching  Summers  Town  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Captain  Cameron,  of  the  Cultivature  of  this  line ; 
beyond  is  the  magnificei.t  villa  of  Hon.  Caribou  Cameron, 
the  finest  on  the  St.  Lawrence.     It  is  built  of  Ohio  free- 
stone, and  cost  $80,000.     Hamilton  Island,  on  the  left,  is 
occupied  every  summer  by  camping  parties,  who  come  from 
great  distances,  even  from  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and  remain 
two,  three,  and  even  four  months.     Day  after  day,  one  of 
their  principal  amusements   is  rowing  out   in  their  small 
boats,   awaiting   the    arrival    of  the    steamers,    and   then 
swiftly  riding  on  top  of  the  swell  that  is  occasioned  by  the 
wheels  of  the  steamer.     The  scene  is  exciting  and  pictur- 
esque    On  the  right,   we  have  now  a  fine  view  of  the 
Adirondack  Mountains  of  northern  New  York,  and  beyond 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  except  it  be  a  smoky  or 
misty  day,  when  the  view  is  slightly  obscured.     It  is  56 
miles  from  the  river  to  the  mountains,  and  intervening  is 
the  wilderness  of  the  State  "of  New  York,  known  as  the  John 
Brown  tract,  more  famous  as  the  hunting  ground  of  adven- 
turous gunnmg  and  fishing  parties. 

Continuing  our  course,  we  pass  three  small  islands  and 
enter  Lake  St.  Francis,  28  miles  in  length — a  very  pictur- 
esque sheet  of  water  indeed  ;  but  the  trip  through  the  lake 
is  quite  monotonous,  therefore,  for  the  next  two  hours,  the 
guide,  as  well  as  the  passengers,  can  "  take  a  rest."  This 
being  a  favorite  route  for  honeymoon  parties,  there  is  now 
two  full  hours  for  these  couples  to  enjoy  the  "  honey  "  or 


E^iaSiSffifcti*"  -■»•'■ 


•■'■"ofei!fe&ate-Si4i*#/alifet.te*%'i«*^^^^ 


/..>  ■>*-.i#??h  v^*v. 


9» 

the  "  moon,'  as  seemeth  to  them  best.  After  making  this 
announcement  one  day,  53  left  the  deck  ;  one,  however,  was 
an  old  bachelor,  who  went  to  curl  his  hair. 

BOYS  ON  A  STEAMER. 

Here  is  a  genuine.  His  parents  are  with  him  ;  he  can- 
not keep  still ;  he  wants  chiefly  to  break  his  neck  or  fall 
overboard,  or  to  get  crushed  by  the  walking-beam  ;  he  has 
been  twice  dragged  from  the  steps  leading  to  the  walking- 
beam,  used  by  the  assistant  engineer  for  lubricating  pur- 
poses ;  he  would  like  to  get  in  the  paddle  boxes,  has  talked 
every  officer  on  board  to  death,  and  is  now  trying  his  best 
to  worry  the  deck  hands.  How  curiously  constructed  is  a 
real  boy,  to  go  whither  he  should  not,  and  especially  where 
his  anxious  mother  most  fears  he  will  go ;  he  is  now  doing 
his  best  to  spoil  his  parents  trip.  We  can  leave  him  for  a 
moment ;  he  won't  flag  in  his  endeavor  to  get  into  trouble 
or  to  make  his  parents  miserable. 

This  is  a  smaller  boy— not  yet  out  of  his  petticoats,  but 
very  active ;  he,  too,  has  with  him  an  anxious  mother ;  he 
has  found  another  boy— a  strange  boy— of  the  same  size 
and  sex ;  they  have  become  acquainted  ;  the  strange  ooy  is 
allowed  by  his  parents  to  roam  about  the  boat  at  will ;  he 
invites  the  nice  little  boy  to  roam  also ;  he  wants  him  to 
roam  as  near  the  walking-beam  as  possible ;  he  has  roamed 
there  himself  before  and  escaped ;  he  tells  the  nice  little  boy 
how  cunning  it  is  to  come  near  being  crushed ;  the  nice 
little  boy's  mother  forbids  any  roaming  at  all ;  she  looks 
with  disfavor  on  the  strange  boy  ;  but  the  strange  boy  con- 
tinues to  hang  around ;   he  knows,  so  does  the  nice  boy, 


'?f- 


After  making  this 
one,  however,  was 


ER. 

irith  him  ;  he  cm- 
:  his  neck  or  fall 
ing-beam ;  he  has 
ng  to  the  walking- 
r  lubricating  pur- 
:  boxes,  has  talked 
ow  trying  his  best 
y  constructed  is  a 
id  especially  where 
I ;  he  is  now  doing 
in  leave  him  for  a 
to  get  into  trouble 

his  petticoats,  but 
ixious  mother;  he 
—of  the  same  size 

the  strange  ooy  is 
le  boat  at  will ;  he 

he  wants  him  to 
le ;  he  has  roamed 
s  the  nice  little  boy 
crushed ;  the  nice 

at  all ;  she  looks 
le  strange  boy  con- 
loes  the  nice  boy. 


93 

together  they  can  fool  any  one  mother  ;  united  they  stand, 
divided  they  fall  j  now  the  nice  boy  edges  away  from  the 
side  of  his  mother,  for  her  energies  are  momentarily  con- 
centrated on  the  set  of  her  bonnet  and  the  nice-looking 
gentleman  at  the  other  end  of  the  saloon  who  is  taking  side 
glances  at  her  through  the  mirror.  Now  the  nice  boy  gels 
farther  away ;  they  are  on  the  forbidden  part  of  the  deck, 
near  the  walking  beam.  It  is  great  fun.  Now  the  cross 
man  who  keeps  order  on  the  deck  drives  them  away.  They 
go  to  the  news  agent's  stand  and  help  themselves  to  any- 
thing on  the  table  when  he  is  not  looking.  They  are  now 
running  in  and  out  of  the  state  rooms,  where  the  passengers 
have  gone  to  take  a  little  rest,  getting  in  everybody's  way  ; 
it  is  a  wonder  they  haven't  been  killed  twenty  times.  It  is 
great  fun  for  the  boys,  but  almost  death  to  the  passengers. 
And  the  mother  is  still  so  occupied  with  her  bonnet  and  the 
dude  who  has  made  a  mash  or  favorable  impression  upon 
her  that  she  has  not  missed  her  nice  little  boy. 

In  the  center  of  the  lake,  on  the  left,  is  the  village  of 
Lancaster,  an  old  Scotch  settlement.  Just  before  reaching 
the  village,  what  appears  to  be  a  stack  of  hay,  but  what  is 
commonly  known  throughout  Scotland  as  a  Cairn.  It  is 
no  more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones  in  a  rounded  or  coni- 
cal form,  placed  in  that  way  to  commemorate  some  especial 
historic  event.  This  one  was  built  by  the  Glengarry  High- 
landers in  1847,  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  Sir  John  Col- 
burn,  who  was  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Army  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  the  Province.  It  was  built  by  putting 
cobble-stones  one  on  top  of  the  other — each  individual  in- 
habitant or  stranger  passing  that  way  adding  a  stone.     See 


'■s^S"- 


Wt3_    -       -      TJ-~-i 


:r.x 


94 

Queen  Victoria's  Book,  where  she  describes  helping  to  build 
a  Scotch  Cairn  with  the  assistance  of  John  Brown,  and  one 
will  get  a  better  idea  of  how  to  build  a  Cairn.  The  county 
in  which  this  place  is  located  is  named  Glengarry,  and  is 
mainly  or  almost  wholly  inhabited  by  the  sturdy  Scotch 
highlanders,  whose  farms  are  of  the  finest  in  the  Dominion. 
This  is  the  last  English  speaking  village  on  the  route. 

Passing  three  lighthouses,  showing  that  the  channel  across 
the  lake  is  quite  intricate,  we  leave  St.  Anisette  on  the 
right,  a  small  French  town.  We  are  now  approaching  the 
boundary  line  between  the  provinces  of  Ontario  and  Que- 
bec. The  lighthouses  on  either  side  show  the  geographical 
divisions.  From  the  lighthouse  on  the  left  the  line  runs 
straight  to  the  Ottawa  river  ;  then  the  Ottawa  becomes  the 
dividing  line.  Just  before  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
where  the  river  re-forms,  we  pass  San  Zotique  ;  next  Coteau 
landing,  where  we  ca'.  for  the  purpose  of  taking  on  a  pilot, 

EDWARD  WILLETT, 

whose  duty  it  is  to  pilot  this  line  of  boats  through  the  next 
series  of  rapids.  We  are  coming  to  four  rapids  :  first,  the 
Coteau  ;  second.  Cedar  ;  third,  Split  Rock,  and  fourth,  the 
Cascades.  The  Canada  Atlantic  Railroad  running  from 
Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Dominion,  to  Coteau  Landing, 
the  railroad  ferry  at  this  point  conveys  whole  trains  to 
Valley  Field,  where  connections  are  made  for  Boston  and 
New  York — the  shortest  route  from  the  capital  to  those 
points.  On  the  extreme  right  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  the 
village  of  Valley  Field,  it  is  at  the  head  of  the  Beauhornias 
Canal,  iij  miles  in  length,  which  passes  around  this  series 


::yjl  - 


s  helping  to  build 
1  Brown,  and  one 
irn.  The  county 
jlengarry,  and  is 
je  sturdy  Scotch 
in  the  Dominion. 
a  the  route. 

he  channel  across 
Anisette  on  the 
'  approaching  the 
Dntario  and  Que- 
'  the  geographical 
left  the  line  runs 
tawa  becomes  the 
:  foot  of  the  lake, 
que  ;  next  Coteau 
taking  on  a  pilot, 

through  the  next 
rapids :  first,  the 
:k,  and  fourth,  the 
>ad  running  from 
Coteau  Landing, 
1  whole  trains  to 
le  for  Boston  and 
;  capital  to  those 
of  the  lake  is  the 
)f  the  Beauhornias 
around  this  series 


M 

of  rapids.     The  river,  in  1 1^  miles,  has  a  fall  of  84  feet. 
The  finest  water  power  privilege  on  the  continent  of  Amer- 
ica, except  Niagara,  is  at  this  point.     The  largest  cotton 
mill  in  the  Dominion,  the  Canada   Paper  Go's  mill,  and 
several  other  manufacturing  establishments  are  located  at 
Valley  Field.     After  leaving  St.  Francis  Lake,  we  re-enter 
the  river.     With  our  pilot  we  go  down  the  small  rapid  known 
as  the  Coteau,  passing  Prisoner's  island  on  the  left,  and  on 
the  left  bank  is  the  old  French  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac. 
On  the  extreme  left  at  the  point  is  an  old   French  fort, 
where  battles  were  fought  in  1812  and  1813  ;  the  earthworks 
are  still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  behind  which  is  the 
old  saw-mill.     Twenty  minutes  (or  five  miles)  from  this  point 
to  the  Cedar  rapids,  then  you  will  see  der  Rapid  that  is  a 
Rapid,  the  most  Rapid  Rapid  of  all  the  Rapids,  opposite 
the  rapid  is  the  village  of  Cedar  on  the  left  and  St.  Timothy 
on  the  right,  the  Cedar  rapid  the  finest  upon  the  St.  Law- 
rence River.     Look  at  St.  Timothy,  bear  in  mind  the  view 
you  had  of  Morrisburg ;  the  impression  of  its  beauty  and 
thrift,  and  now  you  have  the  comparison.     How  does  the 
former  strike  you  as  against  the  latter  ?  It  is  a  historic  fact, 
and  worthy  of  note,  that  no  matter  what  town  you  arrive  ai 
in  the  province  of  Quebec,  this  will  be  apparent  to  the  eye  ; 
the  finest  buildings  in  the  place  will  be  the  church,  nunne.j, 
school,  hospital  or  priest's  residence.     Aside  from  these,  the 
rest  are  all  about  alike.     You  cannot   tell  the  palace  resi- 
dence from  the  blacksmith's  shop,  or  the  grocery  store  from 
the  hotel.     The  church  at  St.  Timothy  has  a  seating  ca- 
pacity of  1,500  J  the  population  of  the  village  is  600;  the 
church  is  always  full  on  Sundays,  anci  as  Mark  Twain  ex- 
claimed, "  What  large  domes  these  worshippers  must  h'ive 


ul 


\ 


y" 


96 

to  their  pantaloons  for  600  to  fill  a  place  capable  of  seating 
1,500."  But  they  come  from  all  the  country  around,  being 
all  of  one  persuasion.  An  opposition  church  is  so  far  un- 
known in  these  rural  parts,  hence  it  may  be  inferred  what 
the  extraordinary  power  of  this  old  church  must  be  in  the 
lower  province. 

Speaking  to  one  of  the  priests  one  day  regarding  the 
amount  of  money  collected  by  them  from  the  poor  to  build 
and  maintain  their  institutions,  I  asked  him  how  it  was,  and 
he  remarked  that  the  millions  have  more  money  than  the 
millionaires,  and  by  gclt^ng  the  dollar  from  the  poorer 
cla  •"PS  'they  had  the  million,  which  the  millionaires  never 
give  up. 

Just  before  arriving  at  St.  Timothy,  we  enter  the  Cedar 
rapid  and  pass  a  distance  of  three  and  one-half  miles  in  the 
extraordinary  short  time  of  seven  minutes.  By  casting  your 
eye  shoreward,  while  passing  an  island  on  the  left,  and  just 
before  we  enter  the  heaviest  part  of  the  rapid,  you  will  dis- 
cover how  fast  the  boat  is  going.  Looking  to  the  right,  you 
will  see  Hell's  hole,  and  the  greatest  f  ommotion  in  the  river 
from  Kingston  to  the  Gulf. 

Leaving  Cedar  rapid  which  is  the  most  picturesque  and 
beautiful  (in  our  estimation)  of  all,  two  and  one-half  miles 
further  along,  and  passing  Bockey  Hayes'  shoal,  which  is  a 
peculiar  formation  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  making  naviga- 
tion somewhat  dangerous.  In  illustration :  one  day  the 
steamer  Corsican  suddenly  lurched  to  the  left,  and  evidently 
struck  a  rock,  whereupon  the  captain  said  to  the  pilot, 
"  Edward,  you  are  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  left."  Before 
he  could  complete  the  sentence,  the  boat  lurched  to  the 


'  ^,-<! 


caj  able  of  seating 
itry  around,  being 
lurch  is  so  far  un- 
^  be  inferred  what 
:h  must  be  in  the 

lay  regarding  the 
1  the  poor  to  build 
m  how  it  was,  and 
e  money  than  the 
from  the  poorer 
millionaires  never 

e  enter  the  Cedar 
le-half  miles  in  the 
By  casting  your 
1  the  left,  and  just 
rapid,  you  will  dis- 
ig  to  the  right,  you 
motion  in  the  river 

it  picturesque  and 
and  one-half  miles 
s'  shoal,  which  is  a 
er,  making  naviga- 
tion :  one  day  the 
left,  and  evidently 
said  to  the  pilot, 
}  the  left."  Before 
Dat  lurched  to  the 


97 

right  and  struck  another  rock  ;  then  the  pilot  replied,  "  yes, 
and  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  right  side.  It  is  plain  that 
the  channel  about  here  is  at  least  precarious.  The  govern- 
ment engineers,  however,  are  now  at  work  removing  these 
dangerous  obstructions.  The  Napoleon  hats  you  see  in  the 
distance,  on  poles  about  ten  feet  high,  are  the  marks  which 
enable  the  pilot  to  obtain  his  true  bearings  through  the 
shoal.  Turning  to  the  right  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Split 
Rock  rapid,  the  mcst  dangerous  rapid  of  all.  When  we 
speak  of  danger,  we  don't  mean  to  life  or  limb,  as  no  per- 
son was  ever  injured  on  this  rapid ;  it  is  danger  to  property 
that  we  refer  to,  as  this  is  the  only  one  of  the  series  that  has 
cost  the  company  one  dollar.  They  lost  one  steamboat 
here,  and  have  had  others  upon  the  rocks.  On  the  8th  of 
July,  1874,  the  steamer  Corinthian,  of  the  R.  O.  N.  Co., 
when  passin^T  the  Split  Rock  rapid,  was  almost  instantly  en- 
veloped by  a  terrific  thunder  shower,  accomjjanied  by  a  hur- 
ricane. The  wind  was  so  powerful  that  the  boat  refused  to 
answer  the  helm,  and  instead  of  turning  to  the  right,  as  she 
should,  the  "/:  J  caused  her  to  go  straight  ahead,  and  we 
struck  a  rock  forward  about  five  feet  high  and  passed  fifteen 
feet  aft  of  the  wheel  over  the  same,  and  then  stopped.  I 
was  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat  explaining  to  the 
passengers  and  showing  or  pointing  out  to  them  the  ledge 
of  rock  when  she  struck.  Immediately  four  ladies  caught 
hold  of  me  (whom  they  thought  was  the  boss  life  preserver). 
What  a  position  for  a  nice  young  man.  I  was  about  to  ex- 
claim as  my  friend  A.  Ward  did  when  he  was  surrounded 
by  20  of  Brigham  Young's  wives,  "  I  hojie  your  intentions 
are  honorable."  However,  through  the  assistance  of  some 
friends,  I  procured  life  preservers  for  them  and  was  released 


,  ••rri*'  ■*  '-'3' -.(*-, -*=^-' 


98 

from  my  somewhat  precarious  position.  In  a  space  of  an 
liour  most  of  the  jjassengers  were  landed  by  the  aid  of  the 
ship's  boats  and  battaus  from  the  shore,  and  proceeded  by 
rail  to  Montreal,  where  they  arrived  the  same  evening.  I 
remained  on  board  all  night  until  a  derrick  was  erected  and 
two  of  the  boats  lashed  together,  and  a  platform  built  upon 
them,  when  I  was  let  down  by  the  aid  of  the  derrick  ujion 
the  same,  and  without  further  trouble  taken  to  shore  in 
safety.  The  second  line  of  white-caps  which  you  see  in  the 
distance  in  front,  is  the  Split  Rock,  a  ledge  of  rock  running 
from  shore  to  shore,  with  the  exception  of  a  break  of  about 
sixty  feet,  which  is  a  natural  split  in  the  rock.  Formerly 
there  was  only  a  depth  of  nine  feet  of  water ;  it  was  blasted 
..«ut,  and  now  gives  a  navigable  channel  of  thirteen  and  one- 
half  feet.  Passengers,  by  looking  into  the  water  on  the 
right  side  of  the  boat,  can  see  the  ledge  we  have  been  talk 
ing  about. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  here  to  the  Cascade,  the  last 
of  this  series  of  four,  and  the  last  but  one  on  the  river— 
the  Lachine  being  the  last.  The  Cascade  differs  from  all 
the  rest,  being  a  cutting,  chopping  sea,  m  which  the  boats 
are  wrenched  more  than  in  any  other  rapid.  On  the  right 
is  the  village  of  Melocheville,  at  the  foot  of  the  Beauhornois 
canal,  eleven  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  that  passes 
around  this  line  of  rapids.  The  boats  of  this  and  all  other 
lines  are  compelled  to  pass  through  this  canal,  as  none  of 
them  could  ascend  this  line  of  rapids. 

We  are  now  thirty  miles  by  water  and  twenty-four  miles 
by  land  from  Montreal.  In  the  distance  in  front,  is  Mount 
Royal  or  Montreal  mountain.     The  park  mountain  drive. 


»-^Tt-Bi'Hr<*;*-'.'..-i*>«i  ..  .^>--- 


^'■\ 


In  a  space  of  an 
by  the  aid  of  the 
md  proceeded  by 
same  evening.     I 
<  was  erected  and 
atform  built  ujion 
the  derrick  ujjon 
aken  to  shore  in 
ich  you  see  in  the 
;e  of  rock  running 
"  a  break  of  about 
:  rock.     Formerly 
ter ;  it  was  blasted 
"  thirteen  and  one- 
the  water  on  the 
we  have  been  talk 

* 

Cascade,  the  last 

ne  on  the  river — 

le  differs  from  all 

which  the  boats 

pid.     On  the  right 

of  the  Beauhornois 

ngth,  that   passes 

this  and  all  other 

canal,  as  none  of 

1  twenty-four  miles 
in  front,  is  Mount 
k  mountain  drive. 


99 

the  most  famous  drive  in  the  world,  is  up  the  brow  of  this 
mountain  through  a  park.  On  the  left  is  II  Perot  Island, 
formed  by  the  two  channels  of  the  Ottawa.  The  one  we 
now  see  comes  by  St.  AnuH,  where  Moore  wrote  his  famous 
Canadian  boat  song.  A  resident  of  St.  Anns,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Dowker,  says  that  every  spring  the  freshets  of  the 
Ottaiva  cause  the  water  to  come  down  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
with  sucIj  force  as  to  cause  an  eddy  to  pass  up  the  point  of 
the  island  and  pass  down  the  navigable  channel  of  the 
Ottawa,  and  he  can  take  a  pail  from  his  house.  Chateau 
Blanc  (where  tht  famous  poet  Moore  resided  while  at  St. 
Anns  and  wrote  his  Canadian  poems),  proceed  down  to  the 
river  and  dip  up  a  pail  of  pure  clear  St.  Lawrence  water. 
Meeting  Col.  Dowker  last  spring,  he  told  me  that  the  fresh- 
ets of  the  Ottawa  in  March  and  April,  1885,  were  the  most 
alarming  and  disastrous  ever  kuown.  The  sudden  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice  caused  a  jam.  Houses  were  moved  from 
their  foundations,  cattle  and  sheep  crushed  to  jelly  by  the 
ice  and  many  drowned ;  the  ice  piled  mountains  high.  The 
government  had  an  agent  in  the  vicinity  relieving  the  dis- 
tressed inhabitants.  The  heavy  flow  of  ice  by  the  freshets 
in  the  Ottawa  caused  a  jam  a  little  below  Montreal  this 
year,  consequently  floo<led  the  city,  causing  much  damage 
to  life  and  property.  The  oldest  church  in  the  upper  Pro- 
vince and  old  forts  are  to  be  seen  here. 

On  the  left  a  portion  of  the  Ottawa  empties  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  This  is  not,  however,  the  mail  channel ;  the 
navigable  portion  of  the  river  is  just  the  other  side  of  II 
Perrot.  Note  the  difference  between  the  color  of  the  two 
waters ;  they  are  as  wide  apart  as  green  is  from  purple. 
The  water  of  the  Ottawa  is  of  a  dark  brown  color,  caused 


'*S>©''®.""' 


by  passing  over  low,  marshy,  peat  bed  soils,  and  the  huge 
forests  through  which  this  river  passes,  the  leaves  falling  and 
rotting,  and  swept  along  by  the  freshets,  doubtless  dye  the 
water  to  the  peculiar  color  observable.  The  waters  of  the 
two  rivers  do  not  readily  mix,  and  each  are  distinct  for 
many  miles. 

In  the  distance  is  Lake  St.  Louis,  or  Lachine  Lake,  15 
miles  from  the  rapids  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  we 
arrive  at  Lachine,  on  the  left,  and  Caughnawaga  on  the 
right.  The  latter  is  the  residence  of  the  Indian  pilot,  St. 
Jean  Baptiste,  who  takes  this  line  of  boats  down  the 
Lachine  Rapids. 

About  half  way  through  the  lake  on  the  right  we  come  to 
Nun's  Island.  That  mound  or  elevation  of  ground  which 
you  see  was  a  fort  in  1812,  and  English  and  American 
war-like  parties  met  in  sanguinary  contest  around  here.  It 
commands  the  entrance  to  the  Chateaugay  River.  The 
village  of  Chateaugay  is  about  6  miles  back.  The  Nun's 
Island  belong  to  the  Grey  Nuns,  of  Montreal,  who  have 
a  hospital  for  their  own  sick,  and  the  spot  is  marked  by  a 
large  cross  emblematic  of  their  order. 

Fifteen  minutes  from  here  we  are  in  sight  of  Caughna- 
waga, where  we  take  on  board  the  Indian  pilot,  who  has 
become  of  historical  interest  to  tourists,  as  it  was  he  who 
discovered  the  channel  and  took  the  first  of  this  line  down, 
August  19,  1840,  and  has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  com- 
pany ever  since.  He  is  70  years  old,  weighs  240  pounds, 
and  stands  6  feet  high.  Many  of  the  passengers  imagine 
he  is  the  only  pilot  who  can  take  a  boat  through  the 
Lachine  Rapids.     This  is  not  correct,  for  we  have  other 


tt^M 


inWHIIiiTflliWliiiiMiMMiBMi  I 

™"""""TWffllHflimMi>a 


soils,  and  the  huge 
he  leaves  falling  and 
3,  doubtless  dye  the 

The  waters  of  the 
ich  are  distinct  for 

■  Lachine  Lake,  15 
the  lake,  where  we 
aughnawaga  on  the 
he  Indian  pilot,  St. 
of  boats   down   the 

he  right  we  come  to 
on  of  ground  which 
jlish  and  American 
sst  around  here.  It 
lugay  River.  The 
back.  The  Nun's 
Montreal,  who  have 
pot  is  marked  by   a 

n  sight  of  Caughna- 
idian  pilot,  who  has 
ts,  as  it  was  he  who 
-st  of  this  line  down, 
employ  of  the  corn- 
weighs  240  pounds, 
passengers  imagine 
I  boat  through  the 
.  for  we  have  other 


■ssSSSBBBS 


-Tmmai 


lOI 

pilots  who  can  ;  but  as  he  is  paid  for  this  especial  service, 
they  resign  most  cheerfully  in  his  fa\  ar.  He  has  never  had  an 
accident,  and  the  company  believe  in  holding  to  that  which 
is  good,  and  therefore  "stick  to  the  old  man."  He  will 
emerge  from  shore  in  a  small  boat,  accompanied  by  his  two 
sons.  They  row  him  to  the  steamers  ;  he  comes  on  board, 
and  the  boys  row  home  again.  He  remains  on  board  till 
the  next  morning,  takes  the  first  train  for  Lachine,  where 
he  is  met  by  the  boys,  who  take  him  home  in  the  row-boat. 
The  Indian  pilot's  name  is  St.  Jean  Baptiste  de  Lisle  ;  his 
Indian  name,  Ta  ya  ka,  meaning  in  the  U.  S.  language  that 
"  he  will  cross  the  river,"  but  does  not ;  he  goes  down  the 
rapids.  He  has  a  family  of  si.x  children,  three  boys  and 
three  girls.  The  girls  are  unmarried.  !  state  this  for  the 
benefit  of  the  young  men  on  board,  as  the  Indian  pilot  says 
he  wants  a  "heap  Yankee"  for  his  girls.  I  am  engaged  to 
my  Mary  Jane,  and  they  can't  have  me. 

Here  the  Indian  pilot  comes  on  board — a  description  of 
Caiighnawaga  would  not  be  amiss.  Note  the  line  of  pala- 
tial residences  along  the  bank  beyond  the  church,  the  win- 
dows and  doors  kicked  out  to  give  them  light  and  air,  the 
palace  gardens  in  the  front  part  of  the  back  end  of  the  house. 
The  laundry  o<"  Caughnawaga  is  usually  hung  on  the  fence  ; 
it  is  not  wash  day  to-day,  as  you  can  perceive.  The  bath- 
house is  the  whole  water-front,  but  it  is  seldom  used.  The 
water-works  is  that  barrel  on  the  shore.  The  fair  damsel 
waving  her  hly  white  hand  is  Mary  Jane,  my  best  girl.  She. 
comes  out  every  day  to  welcome  me,  as  she  thinks  I  am  on 
board.  You  can  get  her  eye  and  have  a  flirtation,  the  same 
as  I  have  had  for  years,  and  not  make  ne  jealous.  That 
large  brick  structure  is  the  centennial  building,  built  during 


<• 


I  ■% 


1^ 


p«l 


iiliiai 


.laffl-gwi 


I02 

the  centeiinial  year  by  the  celebrated  Indian  Chief,  White 
Kicker.  I  '  "link  they  use  him  to  kick  the  windows  and 
doors  out  of  the  palatial  residences  previously  spoken  of. 

Caughnawaga,  signifying  "  Praying  Indian  "  (my  friend 
Ben  Butler  says  they  spell  it  with  an  e),  is  well  laid  out  for 
an  Indian  village,  with  a  ix>pulation  of  quo,  all  Indians  ;  no 
whites  can  live  here, 

The  finest  crops  raised  in  this  section  of  the  country  are 
raised  just  below  Caughnawaga.  They  raise  them  with  a 
derrick.  It  is  a  blasted  crop,  however,  and  of  no  use  until 
it  is.  This  notable  quarry  is  where  most  of  the  stone  comes 
from  for  the  construction  of  the  locks  in  the  new  Lachine 
Canal — Jie  entrance  of  which  is  at  Lachine,  the  village 
just  passed  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  on  the  left. 

THE  VILLAGE  OF  LACHINE 

is  a  favorite  resort  for  Montrealers  in  summer.  The  in. 
habitants  number  about  2,000,  but  it  is  frequently  augment- 
ed in  the  season  to  9,000  or  10,000.  Note  the  large  build- 
ings, which  are  the  church,  Villa  de  Marie  Convent,  the 
School  and  University  for  the  education  of  priests. 

Our  Indian  pilot  being  on  board,  he  will  now  show  his 
Injin-uity  in  piloting  a  boat  down  the  Lachine  Rapids. 
Before  reaching  the  rapids,  the  tourist  can  see  the  aqueduct 
that  supplies  "^he  city  of  Montreal  with  water. 

THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS 

differ  from  all  the  rest ;  it  is  simply  an  intricate  channel 
through  rock.     Take  your  position  upon  either  side  of  the 


1 


idian  Chief,  White 
the  windows  and 
)usly  spoken  of. 

idian  "  (my  friend 
is  well  laid  out  for 
>o,  all  Indians  ;  no 

of  the  country  are 
raise  them  with  a 
,nd  of  no  use  until 
of  the  stone  comes 
I  the  new  Lachine 
ichine,  the  village 
left. 

CHINE 

summer.  The  in. 
requently  augment- 
)te  the  large  build- 
[arie  Convent,  the 
of  priests. 

will  now  show  his 
Lachine    Rapids, 
n  see  the  aqueduct 
va.teT. 

?IDS 

a  intricate  channel 
1  either  side  of  the 


tmmm 


103 

boat  and  you  will  know  when  we  come  to  the  most  impor- 
tant point,  as  the  boat  will  be  headed  direct  for  a  little 
island,  which  is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  few  loads  of 
dirt  upon  a  huge  ledge  of  rock.  Keep  your  eye  upon  the 
bow  of  the  boat  and  you  will  be  led  to  exclaim,  why  we  are 
going  to  strike  the  island;  and  if  you  are  a  betting  person  or 
a  truthful  one,  you  would  almost  swear  we  could  not  help 
but  strike  ;  but  when  within  less  than  ten  feet  we  make  a 
very  sudden  turn  to  the  right,  with  a  grand  pitch  or  I'.irch, 
in  which  you  will  think  the  boat  drops  ten  feet.  We  pass 
alongside  of  a  ledge  of  rocks  for  about  half  a  mile,  to  see 
which  you  must  be  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat ; 
at  the  end  of  this  ledge  of  rock  we  have  a  perfect  miniature 
Niagara,  a  little  water-fall  for  a  cent.  Do  not  allow  the 
lurching  of  the  boat  from  side  to  side,  to  cause  you  any  un- 
easiness as  there  is  no  danger,  because  a  side  wheel  boat 
has  guards  from  four  to  ten  feet  projecting  over  on  each 
side  from  the  hull,  60  to  90  feet  long,  so  that  when  that 
flat  surface  strikes  the  water  by  lurching  that  is  as  far  as 
she  can  go,  therefore,  will  always  righten  herself  immediately. 
I  have  had  a  great  deal  of  sport  in  this  way.  When  the 
boat  had  lurched  over  as  far  as  she  could  I  would  immedi- 
.itely  exclaim  :  "  Oh  !  I  am  on  the  wrong  side,"  and  proceed 
to  the  high  side,  when  the  boat  would  immediately  righten 
up  and  the  passengers  would  think  I  did  it,  but  she  would 
have  rightened  without  my  aid.  Yet  I  have  heard  some 
veiy  strong-minded  women,  after  seeing  the  eflfect  of  my 
moving  to  the  high  side  of  the  boat,  exclaim  :  "  Put  that 
big  man  off;  he  has  too  much  weight  to  be  upon  a  boat  in 
the  rapids  "  This  is  the  last  rapid  built  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, you  can  have  it  the  best  one  if  you  like  and  I  will  not 


■•■ 


The  St.  Lawrence  Hall, 


IVIONTREAL. 


Is  80  arranged  that  rooms  used  for  euests  are  only  one  flIiKht  above  the 
GRAND  oLD  parlors,  which  are  just  one  flight  of  stairs  from 
St.  James  Street.  This  item  of  rooms  below  the  clouds,  with  plenty  of  light 
and  air,  is  worthy  of  attention.  The  now  Ladies'  Entrance,  Grand  Drawmg 
Room  Parlors  and  Suits  of  Rooms  just  addeil,  the  last  furnished,  there- 
fore the  best  in  the  city. 

THE    ST.    LAWRENCE    HALL 

Occupies  a  frontage  on  at.  James  Street  IHO  feet,  on  St.  Francis  Xaviwr 
Street  14S  feet,  on  Oraie  Street  I.W  feet,  and  on  St.  Oeorge  Street  110  feet,  in 
the  very  heart  of  the  city,  opposite  the  new  Post  Office.    Thus 


104 


FAMOUS  FOR  ONE-THIRD  OF  A  CENTURY. 


From  $2  to  $5  is  Saved  from  Hack  Hire  Alone. 

Tke  only  flrst-clasH  hotel  located  within  one  mile  of  the  Post  OfHce  and  all 
the  public  buildings.  Its  table,  unequalled  by  any  in  the  Dominion.  The 
Hotel  is  supplied  with  Cream,  Milk,  Butter  and  Vegetables  from  Its  own 
farm,  fresh  every  day. 

Only  one  block  fl-om  the  French  Cathedral.    Two  blocks  from 

Victoria  Square.    Only  two  blocks  from  the  Theatre 

Royal.    Within  two  blocks  of  all  the  Business 

and   Dry   Goods  Palaces. 

The  nearest  flrst-class  Hotel  to  the  depots  and  steamboat  landings.    Every 

Elace  worthy  of  note  to  the  tourist  is  within  fifteen  minutes  walk  of  the  St. 
awreace  Hall,  except  those  you  see  in  your  Park  Mountain  Drive.  This 
hotel  was  the  home  of  all  royal  and  notable  personages  who  visited  Mon- 
treal for  thirty  years.  It  has  all  the  modern  improvements.  Elevator.  Gas 
and  Electric  Lights,  Hot  and  Cold  Water,  Electric  Bells,  Rooms  En-Suite, 
with  Bath  and  Closets  on  every  floor.  Spacious,  clean  and  well  ventilated 
rooms  The  best  Ijeds  of  any  hotel  in  the  city.  The  prices  are  graduated. 
All  under  the  pers'^nal  supervision  of 

MR.  HENRY  HOGAN. 


L  CENTURY. 


E  Hall, 


L. 


ly  one  flight  above  the 
e  flight  of  Rtairx  from 
Is,  with  plenty  of  ll^ht 
;rance,  Orand  Drawin? 
i  last  furnished,  there- 


;    HALL 


on  St.  Francis  Xavier 
jorge  Street  110  feet,  in 
ae.    Thus 

ck  Hire  Alone. 

the  Post  OfHce  and  all 
in  the  Dominion.  The 
igetabies  from  its  own 


Two  blocks  from 
m  the  Theatre 
)  Business 


iboat  landings.  Every 
ninutes  wulk  of  the  St. 
Mountain  Drive.  This 
iage(>  who  visited  Mon- 
rements,  Elevator,  Gas 
leils,  Rooms  EnSuite, 
an  and  well  ventilated 
prices  are  graduated. 


[Y  HOGAN. 


quarrel  ivith  you  for  it.  All  I  ask  you  to  do  is  to  stop  at 
the  hotels  who  advertise  in  my  book  and  tell  them  I  was  the 
cause,  and  if  they  do  not  treat  you  well  I  will  proceed  to 
sit  down  upon  them,  and  they  will  never  have  occasion  to 
treat  any  one  else  badly.  Passing  the  foot  of  the  rapids  a 
first  view  of  Montreal  on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  is  the 
village  of  La  Prairie.  The  first  mountain  on  the  left  is 
Mount  Bruno  ;  second,  Belleisle  ;  the  third,  St.  Pie.  The 
next  and  last  sensation  on  the  trip  is  passing  under 

VICTORIA  BRIDGE, 

the  largest  and  longest  tubular  bridge  in  the  world  ;  was 
built  by  Mr.  Stephenson  in  i860  for  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
road, by  which  it  is  owned  and  controlled.  It  is  a  mile  and 
three-quarters  of  iron,  two  miles  and  a  quarter  with  its  ap- 
proaches from  shore.  It  is  wholly  of  iron,  top,  bottom  and 
sides — an  iron  tunnel  or  box,  as  it  were.  There  are  twenty- 
four  abutments,  built  wedge  shaped  (to  crush  the  immense 
ice  fields  that  pass  through  this  section,  which,  previous  to 
the  building  of  the  bridge,  did  immense  damage  to  Mon- 
treal during  the  spring  freshets.  There  are  no  such  things  as 
freshets  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Ottawa  flowing  in  some 
miles  above  causing  such  disasters),  upon  which  rejt  the 
sections  of  iron.  These  spans  are  from  250  to  360  feet 
long  each,  and  the  center  span  is  about  60  feet  high.  The 
bridge  tubes  are  16x22  feet.  It  contains  no  wagon  road 
or  foot  path,  and  is  used  by  the  G  T.  R.  and  its  connect- 
ing lines.  The  cost  of  this  immense  work  was  $6,250,000, 
about  one  half  of  which  amount  went  to  fatten  the  contract- 
ors. 1  was  not  one  of  them.  I  mention  this  on  account 
of  my  size,  and  for  fear  some  one  might  think  I  was  wealthy. 


^i'l':'. 


'iii' 
It    1 


•    .i 


w 


■«aB 


io6 

The  hud  ]e  is  constructed  of  sheets  of  iron  with  a  two- 
inch  edge  turned  up  and  riveted  to  each  other.  It  is  fast- 
ened to  the  center,  loose  on  both  ends  on  rollers,  and  is  pro- 
vided with  a  sliding  track,  so  that  there  is  no  danger  by 
expansion  or  contraction  to  passing  trains.  It  expands  and 
contracts  from  three  and  one  half  to  seven  inches.  The 
bridge  is  kept  in  thorough  repair  and  well  painted.  The 
small  holes,  or  perforations,  in  the  sides  of  the  bridge  were 
originally  intended  to  convey  the  smoke  out,  but  found  in- 
adequate for  that  purpose  ;  therefore,  they  caused  to  be 
erected  a  line  of  flues  the  whole  length.  Now  if  any  smoke 
remains  it  is  carried  out  in  a  nand  basket.  The  two  mov- 
able scaffolds  you  sec  are  used  by  the  workmen  in  repairing 
a.id  painting.  It  is  not  a  draw  bridge,  and  as  we  pass 
under  the  center  spau,  and  not  over  it,  you  need  not  re- 
move your  hat  if  you  remain  on  the  deck.  After  passiug 
under  the  bridge  you  will  have  a  magnificent  view  of 

MONTREAL  HARBOR. 

The  points  of  interest  in  the  harbor  will  all  be  described 
to  you  as  we  pass  over  St.  Lambert's  shoal,  a  very  danger- 
ous passage,  previous  to  landing  at  the  Quebec  boat,  where 
we  transfer  such  passengers  as  desire  to  visit  Quebec.  The 
island  you  see  front  on  the  right  is  St.  Helen's  Isle,  used 
by  the  citizens  of  Montreal  for  pleasure,  picnic  parties,  etc. 
A  ferry  plys  between  the  city  and  island  every  half  hour, 
from  rooming  until  7  p  m.  On  Sunday  from  3,000  to  20,- 
000  persons  visit  the  island,  mostly  French  Canadians, 
three-fifths  of  whom  comprise  the  population  of  Montreal. 
In  the  distant  front  on  the  left  is  the  oldest  church  in  Mon- 


mr>'^MSi^' 


iron  with  a  two- 
other.  It  is  fast- 
1  rollers,  and  is  pro- 
is  no  danger  by 
s.  It  expands  and 
:ven  inches.  The 
well  painted.  The 
of  the  bridge  were 
out,  but  found  in- 
they  caused  to  be 
Now  if  any  smoke 
et.  The  two  mov- 
irkmen  in  repairing 
:,  and  as  we  pass 
,  you  need  not  re- 
ck. After  passing 
icent  view  of 

OR. 

ill  all  be  described 
oal,  a  very  danger- 
Quebec  boat,  where 
visit  Quebec.  The 
Helen's  Isle,  used 
picnic  parties,  etc. 
d  every  half  hour. 
'  from  3,000  to  20,- 
French  Canadians, 
ation  of  Montreal, 
lest  church  in  Mon- 


107 

treal  ;  to  the  left  of  that,  the  largest  building  with  the  dome, 
is  the  Bonseccoui  Market  and  old  City  Hall.  The  new 
City  Hall  is  that  large  building  in  the  rear  with  the  dome  in 
the  center  and  four  columns — one  in  each  corner.  Across 
the  road  to  the  left,  that  long  building  is  the  Court  House. 
At  the  head  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square  is  a  magnificent  col- 
umn erected  to  the  memory  of  Admiral  Lord  Nelson.  At 
the  foot  of  the  square  lies  a  steamer  of  the  Richelieu  and 
Ontario  Navigation  Company.  There  are  two  steamers  on 
this  line,  notably,  the  Montreal  and  Quebec.  This  com 
pany  own  twenty-one  side-wheel  boats.  The  Quebec  line 
has  the  largest  boats  that  float  the  St.  Lawrence  River ; 
they  will  compare  favorably  with  the  boats  of  the  Sound  or 
the  Hudson  River — triple-decked  palace  boats,  built  of 
Bessemer  steel ;  one  has  a  capacity  of  360  state  rooms — the 
other  280.  The  distance  to  Quebec  is  180  mi'.es,  and  the 
fare  on  this  line  is  only  $2.50 — the  cheapest  on  the  continent. 
Beyond,  on  the  left,  the  two  massive  towe;s  you  see  belong 
to  the  French  church  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  not  a  Cathedral, 
but  simply  a  parish  church.  (The  Cathedral  is  on  Domin- 
ion Square,  in  process  of  erection,  and  when  complete,  will 
be  one-half  the  size  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome).  It  is  the  larg- 
est on  the  continent,  and  has  contained  within  its  walls  front 
porch  and  stairways,  on  the  24th  of  June  last  (St.  John's* 
day),  twenty-two  thousand  souls.  Beyond  is  the  Custom 
House,  with  the  clock  in  the  tower,  and  still  further  up  the 
examining  warehouse  of  the  Custom  House,  as  well  as  the 
office,  docks  and  steamers  of  the  Allen  line.  The  first  stop 
is  at  Quebec  boat ;  passengers  for  Montreal  remain  on  deck, 
as  this  line  is  compelled  to  enter  the  fiist  lock  in  the  La- 
chine  canal ;  the  gates  close  and  the  water  is  allowed  to 


%■■  ■■ 


\k   ,    1 


s*  r 


io8 


For  Comfort,   Safety  and  Oonvenlence,  Ohooi9  In  Travtllsg, 

The  Central  Vermont 

WRIOn  FORM8  ITS  CONNIOTION  WITH  TBR 

ORANI3    Trunk     Railway. 

The  Old  and  Favorite  New  England  Route. 

TO  AKS  rSOli  ALL  FOIHIS  WX3T. 


The  HolltOK  Htock  and  Equipment  of  the  CENTRAL  VERMONT  K.  R.  Ih 
Micond  to  no  road  in  the  country.    It  Ih  the  only  line  running 

PTJI^LMAN    SLEEPINQ    CARS 

Betwven  Chicago    and    Boston  without  chanRC,  and  solid  trains  of   Elegant 
Coaches  and  HiMCKagu  Cam,  without  chaoRU  IwtWfOU  Montreal  anti  Boston. 

Steel  Kails,  Iron  Bridges,  with  Westiiighouso  Air  Brakes,  Miller  I'laiform, 
Coupler  nn<l  Buffer  on  every  train,  assures  Mifety  while  passing  swiftly  through 
Mountain,  I,akeanil  Klver  Scenery  of  the  most  iKtautlfuland  varied  description. 
The  tralu  set  vice  of  this  road  Is  so  arranged  thot  sure  eonnei^tlons  ore  made 
with  the  Orand  Trui  Railway,  ami  with  raUroads  In  New  England  to  and  from 
all  the  principal  cities,  towns  aud  villages  In 

KassaohuBettB,  Khode  Island,  Oonneotiout  and  Vermont^ 

Wagrner  Cars,  Montreal  to  New  York  without  change, 
Pullman  Palace  Cars  run  to  Boston  via  this  Line. 

Also  flrst-clags  Restaurants  with  reasonable  uharges,  and  ample  time  given 
tor  meals. 

3^Baggage  cheolced  through  Canada  In  Bond,  avoiding  all  trouble  of 
Customs. 

During  the  summer,  EXCURSION  TICKETS  are  sold  over  this  line  ot  greatly 
reduced  rates.  Ask  for  rates  via  this  line  hefore  buying,  and  note  that  your 
tickets  read  via  CENTRAI,  VERMONT  RAILROAD,  for  sale  at  all  Stations  ami 
res])C.iSlble  Ticket  Oflloes,  East  and  West. 

COMPANY'S  OFFICES-am  Washington  Street,  Boston;  31"  Broadway,  New 
York;  IH6  St.  James  Street,  Montreal. 

A.  C.  ST0NE6RAVE,  Agent,  136  St.  James  Street,  Montreal. 

J.  W.  HOBART,  General  Manager. 

S.  W.  CUMMINGS,  General  Passenger  Agent. 

O-exLex-aa.   Off±oe,   S-b-  .AJLTaekaajs,  "Vt. 


,0019  In  Travtllag, 

SRMONT 


AILWAY. 

riand  Route. 

T. 


L  VERMONT  R.  R.  U 
nly  line  running 

sIO    CARS 

gnlUl  traiuH  of  Elegant 
tntreal  antl  BtiKton. 
Uraki's,  Miller  fla<forni, 
uiisHlnK  Hwlftly  through 
ilunil  varied  (li!>crl|>tlon. 
re  connections  are  made 
lew  EUKland  to  and  from 

it  and  Vermont^ 
without  change, 
1  via  this  Line. 
e8,  and  ample  time  given 

Avoiding  all   trouble  of 

1  over  this  line  at  greatly 
t-lng,  and  note  that  your 
>r  sale  at  all  Slations  and 

ton  i  817  Broadway,  New 

street,  Montreal. 


Lt>ai33.s,  "Vt- 


109 

enter,  which  raises  the  boat  to  tlie  level  of  the  lock  when 
the  passengers  are  allowed  to  depart.  Montreal  is  the  cotn- 
mercial  metropolis  of  the  Dominion,  with  a  population  of 
150,000,  three-fifths  of  which  are  French  Canadians.  The 
docks,  piers,  wharfs,  etc.,  of  Montreal  are  the  finest  on  the 
continent.  It  is  the  second  city  of  commercial  importance 
— New  York  being  first.  ix  steamship  companies  leave 
here  weekly  for  Europe  during  the  summer  season  and  a 
large  amount  of  business  must  of  a  necessity  be  done,  as 
its  channel  is  closed  during  five  months  of  the  winter.  The 
water  front  is  all  lighted  with  the  electric  light,  so  that  work 
is  carried  on  during  the  summer  months  night  and  day. 
Having  selected  your  hotel  and  arrived  at  the  same,  our 
next  duty  will  be  to  see  the  sights  of 

MONTREAL. 

It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  ocean  vessels, 
540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  two  great  rivers  of  the 
North,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Ottawa.  The  island  is 
about  thirty  two  miles  in  length,  and  at  its  widest  some  ten 
in  breadth  ;  it  is  so  fertile  as  to  be  called  the  garden  of  the 
Province.  The  surface  of  the  land  is  level  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  eminence  of  Mount  Royal,  which  rises  550  feet 
above  the  river  level.  Mount  Royal  gives  the  name  to  the 
city  which  lies  at  its  base.  The  settlement  of  the  town  was 
originally  determined  by  the  first  explorer,  Jacques  Cartier, 
in  1535,  at  which  time  an  Indian  village,  Hochelaga,  occu- 
pied the  spot.  The  permanent  founding  of  the  place,  how 
ever,  did  not  occur  until  1642,  and  in  one  hundred  years  of 
growth  thereafter  it  gathered  a  population  of  4,000.     It  was 


KM 


I  lO 


under  French  rule  until  1760,  when  it  passeuinto  the  hands 
of  the  British.  In  1832  the  cholera  raged  in  Montreal  with 
great  violence,  carrying  off  1,843  inhabitants  in  a  population 
of  about  30,000.  In  April,  1849,  a  political  mob  burnt  the  Par 
liament  buildings,  which  were  erected  on  McGill  street,  and 
the  scat  of  (Government  was,  in  consequence,  transferred  to 
(Quebec,  thence  to  Toronto,  and  finally  to  Ottawa,  where  it 
remains.  In  July,  1852,  adestructive  fire  laid  waste  a  large 
portion  of  the  city,  burning  no  houses,  antl  consuming 
property  valued  at  $1  400,000.  Notwithstanding  these  re- 
verses the  city  recovered,  ainl  today  numbers  a  |)opulation 
of  150,000.  Years  of  industry  and  enterprise  have  produced 
growth  and  improvement  in  Montreal,  such  as  but  few 
American  cities  can  boast  of,  and  perhaps  but  one — Chicago 
— has  exceeded.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century 
vessels  of  more  than  300  tons  could  not  ascend  to  Montreal, 
and  its  foreign  trade  was  carried  on  by  brigs  and  barges. 
Now  ocean  steamships  of  over  4,000  tons,  the  floating  pala- 
ces of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company,  and 
ships  of  from  700  to  4,000  tons  from  all  parts  of  the  world, 
occujiy  the  wharves  of  the  harbor,  which  are  not  equaled 
on  this  continent  in  point  of  substantial  construction,  con- 
venience and  cleanliness.  The  old  part  of  Montreal,  near 
the  river,  has  narrow  incommodious  streets ;  but  the  new 
growth  of  the  city  toward  Mount  Royal  has  been  liberally 
laid  out,  with  wide  and  cheerful  thoroughfares.  The  archi- 
tecture here  is  very  fine ;  the  material  chiefly  used  is  a 
zinc  colored  lime-stone,  extensively  quarried  three  miles 
from  the  city.  The  public  buildings,  banks,  and  principal 
warehouses  are  solid  and  handsome  enough  to  adorn  a  Euro- 
pean capital.     The  great  wealth  of  the  Roman  Catholic 


iiMi 


ssea  into  the  hands 
d  in  Montreal  with 
ints  in  a  population 
mob  burnt  the  Par 
McGill  street,  and 
;nce,  transferred  to 
;o  Ottawa,  where  it 
e  laid  waste  a  large 
;s,  antl  consuming 
hstanding  these  re- 
nbers  a  population 
prise  have  produced 
,  such  as  but  few 
«  but  one — Chicago 
he  present  century 
iscend  to  Montreal, 
r  brigs  and  barges, 
s,  the  floating  pala- 
tion  Company,  and 

parts  of  the  world, 
;h  are  not  equaled 

construction,  con- 

of  Montreal,  near 
reets ;  but  the  new 

has  been  liberally 
bfares.     The  archi- 

chiefly  used  is  a 
arried  three  miles 
inks,  and  principal 
;h  to  adorn  a  Euro- 
;  Roman  Catholic 


1 1 1 

Church  hns  enabled  it  to  erect  many  magnificent  churches, 
hospitals  and  convents,  always  in  a  very  massive  and  en- 
duimg  style.  Other  denoniinat  ons  seem  to  have  been  ex- 
cited by  emulation,  and  vie  with  each  otner  in  the  beauty 
and  elegance  of  their  places  of  worship.  Among  the  evi- 
dences of  the  French  orijjin  of  the  city  are  to  be  noticed,  a 
few  curious  old  buildings  to  be  found  lingering  here  and 
there  d>out  Jacques  Cartier  Square,  or  occupying  sites  on 
the  eastern  part  of  the  river  front.  The  old  houses  are  built 
somewhat  like  fortifications,  and  have  heavily  vaulted  cel- 
lars, wherein  treasure  might  be  stored  or  a  defense  made 
against  hostile  foes,  in  the  days  when  Indians  and  Whites, 
P'rench  and  British  were  fighting  and  plundering  each  other. 
The  French  Canadians  in  the  city,  continue  still  to  be  a  lit- 
tle more  than  half  the  population,  and,  although  their  lan- 
guage here  has  not  been  unaffected  by  the  constant  inter- 
course with  English-speaking  people,  it  is  not,  as  commonly 
supposed,  a  patois,  but  such  French  as  was  spoken  by  the 
polite  and  educated  in  France,  when  ihe  emigrants  who " 
first  settled  Canada,  left  the  shore  of  their  mother-land. 
The  naming  of  many  of  the  streets  of  Montreal  after  saints 
and  holy  things  reminds  one  that  its  founders  were  not  ex- 
iles nor  adventurers  but  enthusiastic  missionaries. 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 

The  Post  Office  is  built  on  St.  James  street,  the  chief 
throughfare  of  this  city,  opposite  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall. 
The  reason  I  use  the  word  new  may  be  asked.     Well,  the 
hotel  has  been  newly  re  fitted,   the  corner   building  pur 
chased,  one  hundred  elegant  and  commodious  rooms  added 


"■-JS?Sfe: 


-^^^s^-mm: 


<[■ 


112 

witli  baths  and  <:losets,  clectrif  bells  and  elevators,  ladies* 
reception  room,  new  and  elegantly  furnished  suits  of  rooriis 
added  this  year.  The  old  |)ro|)rietor,  Mr.  Flogan,  pro- 
nounced by  connoisseurs  to  be  the  best  landlord  in  the  Do- 
minion, has  assumed  the  proprietorship  and  lias  associated 
with  him  as  manager,  Mr.  Samuel  Montgomery,  the  best 
choice  that  could  be  made,  as  he  is  an  .Vmerican  from  the 
Pacific  slope,  where  they  know  how  to  keep  a  hotel.  I 
therefore  cheerfully  recommend  you  to  stop  at  the  new  St. 
Lawrence  Hall  during  your  stay  in  Montreal.  Starting 
from  there,  it  being  the  centre,  every  point  of  interest  is 
within  fifteen  minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel.  The  first  building 
to  the  left  is  the  new  Post  Ottice,  recently  finished,  with 
a  richly  decorated  exterior,  and  every  internal  improve- 
ment which  modern  ingenuity  has  devised.  Adjoining  it 
is  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architec- 
ture, with  a  sculpture  on  the  pediment  depicting  native 
Indians,  a  sailor  and  settler  with  the  emblems  of  the  arts 
and  trade.  The  corporation  occupying  this  noble  building 
is  the  richest  one  of  the  kind  in  America.  It  has  branches 
in  every  town  of  importance  in  the  Dominion,  and  has  offi- 
ces in  New  York,  Chicago  and  London.  It  issues  letters  of 
credit  on  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  capital  and  reserve 
fund  amo\mt  to  $18,000,000.  Adjoining  the  Bank  of  Mon- 
treal is  the  Canada  Pacific  Railroad  office,  a  simple  solid 
structure  in  the  Doric  style.  Crossing  the  street  a  little 
above  the  corner  on  the  right  hand  side  is  88  St.  James  street, 
where  W.  H.  Merrill  &  Co.,  have  opened  a  new  store  for 
the  sale  of  silks,  velvets,  laces,  gloves,  silk  underwear  and 
hosiery,  they  were  formerly  on  Notre  Dame  street,  but  are 
now  established  at  88  St.  James  street,  where  they  would  be 


"3 


ul  elevators,  ladies' 
ihed  suits  of  roonis 

Mr.  Hogan,  pro- 
landlord  in  the  Do- 
and  lias  associated 
ntgomery,  the  best 
American  from  the 
)  keep  a  hotel.  I 
stop  at  the  new  St. 
[ontreal.  Starting 
point  of  interest  is 

The  first  building 
ently  finished,  with 

internal  im|)rove- 
ised.  Adjoining  it 
an  style  of  architec- 
nt  depicting  native 
imblems  of  the  arts 
this  noble  building 
a.  It  has  branches 
ninion,  and  has  offi 

It  issues  letters  of 
capital  and  reserve 
ig  the  Bank  of  Mon- 
iffice,  a  simple  solid 
5  the  street  a  little 
i  88  St.  James  street, 
ed  a  new  store  for 
silk  underwear  and 
)ame  street,  but  are 
vhere  they  would  be 


glad  to  meet  their  old  customers  and  as  many  new  ones. 
Other  banks  having  their  offices  on  Place  d'Arms  are  the 
Jaccjues  Cartier,  Ontario,  Quebec  and  National  Banks.  On 
the  south  side  of  the  square  the  ^.tit  parish  church  of  Notre 
Dame  looms  up.  The  dimensions  of  this  vast  Norman 
edifice  are  225  feet  in  '-.,.gth,  and  134  feet  in  width.  Its 
towers  are  220  tee.  high;  the  western  one  contains  the 
largest  bell  in  America,  "  Gros  Bourdon,"  in  weight  29,400 
pounds.  The  seating  capacity  of  the  church  is  10,000.  It 
has  recently  been  decorated  in  deep  colors  and  gold,  after 
the  manner  of  the  St  Chapelle  at  F»aris.  Suspended  over 
the  western  gallery,  and  near  the  grand  altar,  is  an  immense 
wooden  crucifix.  This  was  brought  from  France  two  cen- 
turies ago,  and  first  set  up  in  the  church  built  on  the  ground 
now  Place  d'Arms.  Adjoining  Notre  Dame  is  the  venerable 
Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  with  its  old  gateway,  courtyard  and 
clock.  The  gentlemen  of  this  seminary  originally  held  val- 
uable rights  affecting  the  entire  island  of  Montreal ;  much 
of  the  land  yet  remains  in  their  hands.  With  the  wealth 
thus  brought  to  their  coffers  they  have  liberally  established 
and  conducted  many  institutions  of  charity  and  education 
scattered  throughout  the  city.  We  are  now  on  Notre  Dame 
street,  the  chief  retail  street  in  Montreal.  Turning  eastward 
a  few  feet  from  Notre  Dame  church,  on  the  right  is  R. 
Sharpley  &  Sons,  which  will  repay  a  visit ;  a  cordial  invita- 
tion is  extended  and  I  am  sure  it  will  be  time  well  spent  if 
you  call.  A  little  above  on  the  left,  167 1,  J.  &  E.  Mc- 
Entyre,  merchant  tailors.  They  make  all  my  clothes,  there- 
fore  if  they  can  fit  me  further  comments  are  unnecessary. 
A  little  above  is  Lanthier  &  Co.  Let  us  go  on  we  shall  soon 
arrive  at  the  Court  House,  a  fine  Grecian  building  of  simple 


"     9 


i  lit 


■,tm 


■:?is: 


mi&!^^ 


^ 


114 

and  massive  appearance.  A  few  steps  further  on  the  right 
brings  us  to  Nelson's  monument,  setting  forth  in  bas-relief 
the  various  virtories  which  the  great  naval  hero  won  with- 
out the  loss  of  a  ;,ingle  British  ship.  This  moni.me.it  is  in 
Jacques  Cartier  square,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the  wharf  of 
Quebec  steamers. 

Keeping  on  Notre  Dame  street,  directly  beside  the  monu- 
ment, we  find  opposite  to  each  other  two  buildings  which 
form  a  sharp  contrast.  The  one  on  the  left  is  the  new  City 
Hall,  a  lofty  and  ornate  specimen  of  French  architecture  ; 
facing  it  is  the  "  old  chateau,"  a  structure  i)robably  thought 
very  fine  a  century  ago,  when  Benjamin  Franklin  set  up  in 
it  the  first  printing  press  ever  used  in  the  city.  Now  the 
old  place  is  a  Normal  School,  and  the  discoveries  of  the 
illustrious  American  is  explained  there,  and  let  us  hope  his 
witty  sayings  repeated  and  acted  upon.  We  can  now  take 
our  way  to  the  river  side,  and  a  block  from  Jacques  Cartier 
Square  shall  find  Bonsecours  Market,  a  vast  substantial 
Doric  structure.  Here,  if  it  be  market  day,  we  may  see  a 
little  of  the  French  Canadian  peasantry,  clad  in  their  home- 
spun, and  bargaining  about  their  fowls,  or  eggs  or  butter 
with  many  queer  words  and  phrases  now  almost  forgotten 
in  the  Normandy  whence  they  were  first  brought. 
Next  to  the  market  is  Bonsecours  Church,  a  rough-cast 
building  with  a  high  pitched  roof  and  with  a  breadth 
of  a  few  feet  adjoining  it,  occupied  by  cobblers  and 
cake  shops.  This  church  is  the  oldest  Roman  Catholic  one 
in  the  city ;  its  entrance  is  at  the  farther  side  ;  rarely  is  it 
unoccupied  by  some  worshipers  from  the  adjacent  market, 
who  bring  in,  without  ceremony,  their  baskets  and  bundles. 
Suspended  over  the  altar  is  a  model  of  a  ship  in  bright  tin. 


m- 


further  on  the  right 
ig  forth  in  bas-relief 
^al  hero  won  with- 
his  moni.nie.it  is  in 
■hich  is  the  wharf  of 

:ly  beside  the  monu- 
;wo  buildings  which 

left  is  the  new  City 
rench  architecture  ; 
re  i)robably  thought 
1  Franklin  set  up  in 

the  city.  Now  the 
e  discoveries  of  the 

and  let  us  hope  his 

We  can  now  take 

rom  Jacques  Cartier 

a  vast  substantial 
t  day,  we  may  see  a 
,  clad  in  their  home 
Is,  or  eggs  or  butter 
ow  almost  forgotten 
rere  first  brought, 
hurch,  a  rough-cast 
nd  with  a  breadth 
1  by  cobblers  and 
Roman  Catholic  one 
Her  side  ;  rarely  is  it 
he  adjacent  market, 
:)askets  and  bundles. 

a  ship  in  bright  tin, 


"5 

in  which  usually  burning  tapers  are  placed.  Returning, 
on  the  water-front,  we  note  the  ships  and  steamers  from 
Liverpool,  Glasgow,  London,  Havre,  Rotterdam  and  other 
ports  ;  and  on  the  right  successively  pass  the  Custom  House, 
a  triangular  building,  with  a  clock  tower ;  the  office  of  the 
Allen  Line,  also  having  a  clock  and  the  fine  building  of  the 
Harbor  Commissioners.  Next  to  it  is  a  curious  looking  pile, 
with  external  hoist  ways  from  top  to  bottom,  this  is  the  Cus- 
toms Examining  Warehouse.  Before  we  leave  this  vicinity, 
we  shall  glance  backward  at  the  street  from  Allen's  office  to 
the  Custom  House. 

Taking  a  short  journey,  still  upon  the  river  front,  we  come 
to  the  great  works  of  stone  masonry,  which  give  to  Mon- 
treal an  enlarged  canal  to  Lachine,  so  that  vessels  of  much 
greater  tonnage  than  the  ones  at  present  used  may  be  em- 
ployed in  the  grain  trade.  This  enterprise  is  one  of  a  series 
of  canal  improvements  by  which  Canada  strives  to  retain 
and  increase  its  business  as  a  highway  for  the  shipment  of 
western  produce  to  the  sea-board. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  wide  street  running  up 
from  the  city,  McGill,  and  mark  the  fine  warehouses  that 
adoni  it.  Arriving  at  Notre  Dame  street,  a  little  above,  on 
the  left,  John  Murphy  &  Co.,  who  invite  you  to  inspect 
their  stock,  styles  and  prices.  Adjoining  is  Mr.  S.  Carsley, 
who  occupies  the  six  or  seven  stores  in  succession,  which 
you  are  invited  to  inspect,  and  I  am  positive  you  will  be  as 
favorably  impressed  as  I  was.  Retracing  our  steps  back  to 
McGill  street,  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  immedia.:ely  in 
front,  just  one  block,  is  Victoria  Square,  which  contains  a 
statue  of  the  Queen  by  Marshall  Wood.     Corner  St.  James 


?^ 


ii6 

street  opposite,  on  the  left,  is  the  Albert  Buildings.  Turning 
to  the  right  we  '"nter  St.  James  street.  The  first  building 
of  note  on  the  right  is  the  Ottowa  Buildings,  on  the  left  is 
J.  J.  Milloy,  the  tailor,  where  tailor-made  suits  for  ladies  are 
a  specialty.  A  little  further  on  the  right,  is  G.  W.  Clark, 
The  Souvenir  Palace,  where,  if  you  enter,  the  sight  of  such 
rare  curiosities  and  splendid  souvenirs  will  cause  you  to 
wonder  how  you  got  in  without  a  ticket,  and  a  little  above 
is  Drysdale  &  Co.,  where  any  religious  book  may  be  had, 
Seaside  Library,  stationery,  etc.  This  is  the  largest  book- 
store in  Canada  and  the  most  cheerful,  as  they  have  just 
added  a  waiting  parlor,  where  you  can  meet  a  friend  and 
visit  "  Alexander's"  if  you  desire  ;  it  is  a  little  above  on  the 
left  where  is  kept  confections,  "bons  bons,"  etc.,  and  you 
can  be  served  with  the  best  the  market  affords.  On  our 
way  to  the  Post  Office  from  whence  we  started.  At  the 
corner  of  St.  Peter  street  is  the  Mechanics'  Institute.  This 
building  contains  a  good  library,  the  admission  fee  to  which 
is  only  nominal,  and  a  ver>'  good  reading  room,  having  on 
its  tables  the  principal  dailies  of  America,  the  London 
Times,  the  Glasgow  Herald,  the  Dublin  Warder,  the  Edin- 
burgh Scotstnan,  and  all  the  weeklies  monthlies  and  quar- 
terlies of  both  England  and  the  United  States.  Strangers 
can  have  free  access  to  this  reading-room,  for  the  period  of 
two  weeks,  by  applying  to  Mr.  Hogan,  the  proprietor  of  the 
new  St.  Lawrence  Hall. 

Opposite  to  the  Mechanics  Institute  is  the  Merchants' 
Bank,  built  in  modern  ItaHan  style,  with  polished  granite 
columns  at  the  entrance  ;  the  interior  of  this  bank  should 
be  seen  ;  the  man  office  is  carried  up  two  stories  in  height 
and  is  beautifully  frescoed.     Diagonally  across  the  street  is 


Buildings.  Turning 
The  first  building 
dings,  on  the  left  is 
2  suits  for  ladies  are 
[ht,  is  G.  W.  Clark, 
r,  the  sight  of  such 
will  cause  you  to 
and  a  little  above 
book  may  be  had, 
s  the  largest  book- 
as  they  have  just 
meet  a  friend  and 
I  little  above  ou  the 
)ns,"  etc.,  and  you 
t  affords.  On  our 
re  started.  At  the 
ics'  Institute.  This 
nission  fee  to  which 
g  room,  having  on 
lerica,  the  London 
I  Warder,  the  Edin- 
fjonthlies  and  quar- 
1  States.  Strangers 
•m,  for  the  period  of 
the  proprietor  of  the 

:  is  the  Merchants' 
ith  polished  granite 
)f  this  bank  should 
two  stories  in  height 
^  across  the  street  is 


"7 

Molson's  Bank,  also  of  Italian  design,  and  richly  decorated. 
We  are  now  nearly  at  the  hotel  again,  where  we  may  con- 
clude for  the  present  our  inspection  of  the  city. 

Resuming  our  sight-seeing,  we  shall  now  leave  behind  us 
tht  business  streets,  and  take  our  way  to  the  upper  part  of 
Montreal.  Our  suggestion  is,  take  St.  James  street  to  the 
first  crossing  on  the  right  as  you  leave  the  hotel,  St.  Peter 
street.  After  two  blocks  this  street  changes  its  name  to 
Bleury  street  (when,  if  you  find  you  are  footsore,  you  can 
turn  to  the  left  to  the  end  of  the  block,  on  Craig  street.  No. 
1722,  where  is  located  the  celebrated  Surgeon  Chiropodist, 
Prof.  Harris,  who  will  attend  to  any  trouble  of  the  feet, 
that  will  be  sure  to  make  your  walk  a  pleasant  one,  provided 
you  are,  like  me,  suffering  from  corns,  bunions  or  ingrowing 
nails)  At  No.  17  Bleury  street,  we  may  enter  Notman's 
studio,  a  large  handsome,  building  entirely  devoted  to  pho- 
tographic art.  Here  we  may  spend  half  an  hour  very  pleas- 
antly in  looking  over  views  of  Canadian  scenery,  and  por- 
traits taken  singly  or  skillfully  grouped,  representing  the 
sports  and  pastimes  of  our  winter.  The  chief  of  these 
pictures  is  that  which  shows  a  carnival  held  at  the  Victoria 
Skating  Rink  eight  years  ago,  when  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Ar- 
thur was  present.  This  Photographic  marvel,  with  others 
now  surrounding  it  on  the  walls  of  Mr.  Notman,  attracted 
great  attention  and  admiration  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition. 
Mr.  Notman  was  photographer  to  the  Exhibition  and  re- 
ceived it  highest  awards. 

Continuing  on  Bleury  street  we  soon  reach,  on  the  left, 
the  Church  of  the  Jesu,  with  St.  Mary's  College  adjoining 
it,  conducted  by  the  Jesuit  fathers.    This  church  is  modeled 


ismp 


ii8 

after  one  of  the  same  name  at  Rome,  where  the  remains 
of  Loyola  arc  entombed.  The  style  of  architecture  is  the 
round  Roman  arch.  The  interior  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful among  American  churches.  Over  the  high  altar  is  a 
fresco  of  the  crucifixion.  Ir.  the  southern  transcept  the  suf- 
ferings of  the  first  Canadian  martyr,  burnt  by  savages,  are 
depicted.  Leavuig  the  elegant  house  of  prayer,  we  shall 
continue  on  Bluery  street  until  we  come  to  St.  Catharine 
street.  A  few  steps  brings  us  to  the  Nazaieth  Asylum  for 
the  Blind,  attached  to  which  (No.  1091)  is  a  most  ornate 
chapel,  decorated  in  such  a  lovely  manner  as  to  lead  one  to 
suppose  that  it  was  done  to  encourage  the  suffering  inmates 
of  the  asylum  to  see. 

The  next  building  on  the  side  of  the  street  (Mo.  1077) 
is  the  Roman  Catholic  Commercial  Academy,  a  lordly 
monument  of  wealth  and  munificence,  containing  all  the 
modern  appliances  for  the  practical  training  of  youth,  and 
presided  over  by  an  able  staff  of  professors.  If  we  keep 
going  eastward  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  pass  on  St.  Den- 
nis street,  the  immense  parish  church  of  St.  James,  with  the 
tallest  spire  in  the  city.  Near  by  is  the  new  church  which 
is  dedicated  *o  Notre  Dame  De  Lourdes  ;  water  and  relics 
from  her  shrine  at  Lourdes  in  France,  are  for  sale  in  the 
basement.  Adjoining  the  church  are  its  conventual  build- 
ings. 

Returning  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  soon  come  to 
Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Church  of  England),  unquestion- 
ably the  most  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture  in 
Canada.  It  is  of  cruciform  design  ;  its  extreme  width  is 
100  feet.     The  spire,  which  is  entirely  of  stone,  rises  to  the 


here  the  remains 

chitecture  is  the 

)f  the  most  beau- 

s  high  altar  is  a 

transcept  the  suf- 

t  by  savages,  are 

prayer,  we  shall 

to  St.  Catharine 

aieth  Asylum  for 

is  a  most  ornate 

as  to  lead  one  to 

:  suffering  inmates 

street  (Mo.  1077) 
.cademy,  a  lordly 
:ontaining  all  the 
ing  of  youth,  and 
5Sors.  If  we  keep 
;  pass  on  St.  Den- 
>t.  James,  with  the 
new  church  which 
;  water  and  relics 
e  for  sale  in  the 
conventual  build- 


ive  soon  come  to 
;land),  unquestion- 
lic  architecture  in 
extreme  width  is 
stone,  rises  to  the 


"9 

height  of  224  feet.  The  materials  of  construction  are  Mon- 
treal limestone  and  stone  from  Caen,  in  Normandy,  which 
latter,  bv  exposure  to  the  weather,  has  changed  from  almost 
pure  whiteness  to  a  yellow  tint.  On  the  grDunds  of  the 
cathedral  are  erected  the  residences  of  the  bishop  and  his 
assistants,  the  Synod  Hall,  and  also  a  fine  monument  to 
Bishop  Fulford,  the  first  Metropolitan  of  Canada.  The 
street  running  on  the  farther  side  of  the  cathedral  is  Univer- 
sity street,  and  No.  82,  one  block  distant,  is  the  Natural 
History  Museum,  containing  a  good  Canadian  collection. 
University  street  leads  us  down  to  Dorchester  street,  on  the 
corner  of  which  is  the  St.  James  Club  House.  Taking 
Dorchester  street  eastward,  we  pass  on  the  left  St.  Paul's 
Church  (Presbyterian).  On  the  same  side  we  soon  have  a 
yiew  of  the  vast  proportions  of  the  new  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral  in  course  of  construction. 

Across  the  square  on  which  St.  Peter's  is  building,  we  no- 
tice a  beautiful  church,  St.  George's  (Church  of  England), 
and  adjoining  it  is  its  Sunday  school,  the  largest  anci  best 
conducted  in  Canada.  On  Dorchester  street,  fronting  Do- 
minion Square  on  Peel  street,  is  the  Windsor  Hotel.  Next 
beyond  on  Dorchester  street  is  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink, 
where  immense  carnivals  are  held  in  the  winter — the  grand- 
est in  the  world.  In  the  summer  the  spacious  edifice  is  used 
for  concerts,  walking  matches,  public  gatherings,  meetings, 
etc.  Two  blocks  distant  is  the  Foundling  Hospital  of  the 
Gray  Nun,  a  visit  to  which  is  thus  described  :  A  long  pro- 
cession of  the  nuns  marched  slowly  into  the  chapel  and 
knelt  in  prayer.  Each  nun  had  a  crucifix  and  a  string  of 
beads  attached,  and  whatever  may  have  been  the  case  with 
their  thoughts,  their  eyes  never  wandered,  notwithstanding 


X* 


"■M. 


i«H 


190 


*;.■ 


strangers  were  gazing  at  them.  Some  were  young  and 
pretty,  others  old  and  plain,  but  the  sacred  character  of 
their  labor  of  Ic  -e  invested  them  all  with  beauty.  We  said 
tht  eyes  of  none  wandered.  Perhaps  we  ought  to  confess 
that  the  quick,  sharp  glance  of  one,  apparently  younger 
than  the  others,  stared  at  us  for  a  moment ;  but  it  was  only 
curiosity — womanly  curiosity — and  what  woman  has  not 
the  curiosity  to  look  at  me.  Yet  that  moment  was  fruitful 
of  thought,  and  as  we  saw  the  sad,  dark-eyed  beauty  rise 
in  her  place  and  mechanically  follow  her  more  staid  sisters, 
our  mind  went  back  to  the  days  of  chivalry,  when  gallant 
knights  rode  with  lance  at  rest,  or  wielded  the  heavy  battle- 
axe  in  heroic  deeds  that  they  might  win  recognition  from 
the  proud  ladies  who  looked  down  upon  them.  And  as  we 
thought,  it  seemed  that  the  most  gallant  deeds  which  men 
of  this  nineteenth  century  might  do,  would  be  to  rescue 
young  and  pretty  nuns — who  wanted  to  be  rescued — from 
the  silence  and  sadness  of  the  nunnery. 

We  are  now  arrested  by  an  immense  structure  even 
larger  than  the  institution  just  passed ;  it  is  the  Montreal 
College,  which  educates  ecclesiastics,  and  also  day  pupils, 
and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Sulpician  fathers.  The  two 
Martello  towers  in  front  of  the  college  are  relics  of  the 
times  when  incessant  strife  raged  between  the  settlers  and 
the  Indians.  Sherbrooke  street  is  adorned  with  the  private 
residences  for  which  the  citizens  of  Montreal  are  proud, 
and  in  your  drive  around  the  town,  previous  to  or  after 
returning  from  your  Park  Mountain  drive,  it  will  repay  one 
to  drive  through  Sherbrooke,  Dennis  and  Dorchester  streets. 
The  McGill  College,  University  and  spacious  grounds  are 
the  next  points. 


le  were  young  and 
sacred  character  of 
th  beauty.  We  said 
ive  ought  to  confess 
apparently  younger 
ent ;  but  it  was  only 
lat  woman  has  not 
moment  was  fruitful 
lark-eyed  beauty  rise 
;r  more  staid  sisters, 
livalry,  when  gallant 
ied  the  heavy  battle- 
irin  recognition  from 
n  them.  And  as  we 
mt  deeds  which  men 
would  be  to  rescue 
to  be  rescued — from 

ense  structure  even 
;  it  is  the  Montreal 
md  also  day  pupils, 
n  fathers.  The  two 
ge  are  relics  of  the 
een  the  settlers  and 
Tied  with  the  private 
Montreal  are  proud, 
previous  to  or  after 
ive,  it  will  repay  one 
d  Dorchester  streets. 
}acious  grounds  are 


.M 


III 

As  we  pass  a!ong  Sherbrooke  street,  in  the  distance  we 
observe,  as  we  glance  up  St.  Famille  street,  the  enormous 
Hotel  Dieu,  with  a  large,  bright  dome,  a  free  hospital  for 
all,  under  Roman  Cathohc  direction. 

Returning  to  the  Post  Office,  preferably  by  Beaver  Hall 
Hill,  we  shall  not  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  number  of  hand- 
some churches  erected  there  together.  On  the  right  is  the 
Unitarian  church,  on  the  left,  successively  a  Presbyterian, 
Baptist,  and  Jewish  synagogue.  Near  by,  on  Craig  street, 
is  a  towered  building  occupied  by  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association. 

We  are  soon  at  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  and  before 
mentioning  the  drives  that  may  be  taken  outside  the  city, 
it  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to  a  few  places  near  at  hand 
a  business  man  or  student  may  be  interested  in  visiting  : 
The  Com  Exchange,  foot  of  St.  John  street,  the  Merchants' 
Exchange,  St.  Sacrament  street,  the  office  of  the  Telegraph 
Co.,  and  the  Open  Stock  Exchange,  St.  Francis  Xavier 
street.  Near  the  beginnning  of  St.  James  street,  on  St. 
Cabriel  street,  is  the  Geological  Museum,  open  daily  from 
lo  to  4,  containing  an  admirable  collection  of  North  Amer- 
ican minerals,  and  many  interesting  fossils.  Here  may  be 
seen  what  many  geologists  regard  as  the  most  primitive 
record  of  life,  the  Eoxoon  Canaddense,  first  noticed  at 
Perth,  Ontario,  by  a  Mr.  Wilson.  From  the  fact  that  the 
oldest  fossil  bearing  stratum,  the  Laurentian,  is  the  back- 
bone, geographically,  of  Canada,  and  because  of  the  great 
variety  of  rocks  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mont- 
real, this  museum  is  particularly  attractive  to  a  lover  of 
science.     An  effort  is  on  foot  to  deprive  the  city  of  this 


132 


collection,  and,  for  the  sake  of  ceMralizatiou,  remove  it  to 
Ottawa.  I  offer  this  as  an  apology  in  case  it  should  be 
removed. 

DRIVES. 

As  I  have  said  two  or  three  times,  by  far  the  most  pleas- 
ant drive  is  up  the  brow  of  Mount  Royal,  called  the  Park 
M6untain  drive.  There  are,  presumably,  two  roads :  the 
shorter  returns  by  McTavish  street,  the  other  by  Bleury. 
The  park  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  Olmstead,  the  designer  of 
Central  Park,  New  York,  whose  achievements  there  were 
recognized  by  a  statue  adorning  one  of  the  entrances.  The 
river  view  from  Mount  Royal  is  delightful,  and  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated.  I  dare  not  attempt  to  describe  it. 
A  suggestion  of  how  to  get  a  hundred  pictures  of  every 
conceivable  shape  or  form  of  landscape  views,  containing 
mountain,  plain,  river,  lake,  hillside,  valley,  etc.,  etc.,  is  to 
close  the  eye,  place  the  hands  on  each  end  of  the  forehead, 
and  every  time  the  carriage  moves  a  hundred  feet  open  the 
eyes,  and  you  have  an  entire  new  picture.  Keep  this  up 
until  you  have  had  an  elegant  sufficiency  of  view.  The 
;iext  drive  is  around  the  mountain,  and  was  the  best  until 
the  completion  of  the  Park  Mountain  drive ;  it  is  pleasant 
and  attractive,  when  it  includes  a  drive  to  the  Catholic  and 
Protes'^ant  cemeteries,  giving  a  view  of  the  monuments  and 
tombs.  The  drive  to  Lachine  is  next,  and  is  of  interest. 
The  drive  to  Longue  Pomi,  along  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the 
opposite  direction  to  the  last,  gives  us  an  entirely  different 
kind  of  scenery.  It  takes  us  through  the  village  of  Hoch- 
elaga,  the  term-nus  of  the  new  railroad,  the  Quebec,  Mont- 
real, Ottawa  and  Occidental,  which  runs  along  the  north 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  develops  tracts  of  coantry 


tioii,  remove  it  to 
case  it  should  be 


far  the  most  pleas- 
il,  called  the  Park 
y,  two  roads  :  the 
:  other  by  Bleury. 
ad,  the  designer  of 
;ments  there  were 
e  entrances.  The 
tful,  and  must  be 
iipt  to  describe  it. 
pictures  of  every 
;  views,  containing 
ley,  etc.,  etc.,  is  to 
d  of  the  forehead, 
dred  feet  open  the 
re.  Keep  this  up 
icy  of  view.  The 
was  the  best  until 
rive ;  it  is  pleasant 
0  the  Catholic  and 
le  monuments  and 
ind  is  of  interest, 
it.  Lawrence  in  the 
.n  entirely  different 
le  village  of  Hoch- 
the  Quebec,  Mont- 
is along  the  north 
i  tracts  of  coantry 


^i% 


123 

as  yet  unbenefitted  by  the  iron  horse.  About  a  mile  from 
the  depot  is  the  beautiful  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the 
Holy  Names  of  Jesus  and  Mary.  Many  young  ladies  from 
the  United  States  have  been  educated  at  this  convent. 
The  next  noteworthy  building  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  This 
immense  house,  containing  nearly  300  maniacs,  idiots,  and 
imbeciles,  is  controlled  by  the  Sisters  of  Providence  ;  these 
ladies,  with  the  exception  of  six  guardians  for  desperate 
characters,  and  a  physician,  have  sole  cnarge.  They  find 
no  trouble  in  the  care  of  the  numerous  inmates,  and  by  their 
kindness  and  tact  restore  mental  balance,  in  all  the  cases 
where  cure  is  possible,  in  a  tithe  the  time  it  used  to  take  in 
the  old  days,  whtn  the  insane  were  treated  with  harshness 
and  cruelty.  On  our  way  to  Longue  Point,  the  villages  of 
Longueuil,  Boucherville  and  Varennes  lie  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river.  The  drive  to  the  Back  River  is  an  attrac- 
tive one,  and  with  citizens  the  most  attractive  of  all ;  the 
beautiful  Convent  01  the  Sacred  Heart  is  situated  here,  and 
its  grounds,  finely  laid  out,  lead  directly  to  the  water's  edge. 
The  bridge  which  spans  the  rivi;r  at  this  place — a  branch 
of  the  Ottawa — affords  one  of  the  chara'cteristic  sights  of 
Canada,  the  piloting  of  a  raft  through  a  tortuous  channel. 
The  size  of  an  ordinary  raft,  its  great  value,  from  $  1 00,000 
to  $300,000,  the  excitement  of  the  captain  and  his  French 
and  Indian  crew,  with  the  constant  perils  threatening 
the  whole  structure,  all  conjoin  to  make  up  a  scene  to 
be  dwelt  upon  and  long  remembered.  Thus  hoping  the 
same  will  be  said  of  your  visit  to  Montreal,  I  shall  advise 

all  to  visit      1  .  7    ;       ,.    ;        :. 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists  can  either  take  the  Grand  Trunk,  the  North 
Shore,  or  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.'s  line  of 


■'"'*S'^S*fgS£s^^J*^aSfe*%4«^ii)!ieii*fciw^^ 


steamers.  Tickets  can  be  procured  of  the  Company's  agent 
opposite  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall  building,  where  state- 
rooms, etc.,  may  be  secured.  I  assume  that  the  river  is 
the  route  selected,  and  that  the  reader  is  fairly  on  his  way 
to  that  ancient  city  and  former  capital.  Pa.ssing  a  group  of 
islands  below  Montreal  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river, 
we  soon  arrive  at 

SOREL, 

forty-five  miles  below — the  first  landing  made  by  the  steamer. 
It  was  built  upon  the  site  of  a  fort  built  in  1755,  ^Y  M.  De 
Tracy  and  was  for  many  years  the  summer  residence  of 
many  succesive  Governors  of  Canada.  Five  miles  below, 
the  broad  expanse  of  the  river  is  called 

LAKE  ST.  PETER, 

which  is  about  nine  miles  wide.  The  St.  Francis  river  enters 
here.  Large  rafts  are  observed  here  slowly  floating  to  the 
great  mart  at  Quebec. 

THREE  RIVERS 


is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  River  St.  Maurice  and 
St.  Lawrence,  ninety  miles  below  Montreal,  and  the  same 
distance  above  Quebec.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  settled 
towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded  in  16 18.  It  is  well 
laid  out  and  contains  many  good  buildings,  among  which 
are  the  Court  House,  ,the  Jail,  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  the  Ursuline  Convent  the  English  and  Wesleyan 
churches.     The  population  of  Three  Rivers  is  about  9,200. 


"Vi 


!  Company's  agent 
ling,  where  state- 
!  that  the  river  is 
I  fairly  on  his  way 
Passing  a  group  of 
the  Ottawa  river. 


de  by  the  steamer. 
n  I7S5,  by  M.  De 
nmer  residence  of 
Five  miles  below, 


rancis  river  enters 
vly  floating  to  the 


r  St.  Maurice  and 
;al,  and  the  same 
:he  oldest  settled 
I  1618.  It  is  well 
ngs,  among  which 
Roman  Catholic 
sh  and  Wesleyan 
:rs  is  about  9,200. 


BATISCAN 

is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river,  one-hundred  and 
seventeen  miles  below  Montreal.  It  is  the  last  place  the 
steamers  stop  before  reaching  Quebec.  It  is  a  place  of  lit- 
tle importance. 

In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal,  the 
country  upon  its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its  general 
scenery,  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.  The 
villages  and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character,  gen- 
erally made  up  of  small  buildings,  the  better  class  of  which 
are  painted  white  or  whitewashed,  with  red  roofs.  Promi- 
nent in  the  distance  appear  the  tile-covered  spires  of  the 
Catholic  churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in  that  unique 
style  of  architecture  so  peculiar  to  that  church. 

During  your  stay  in  Quebec  stop  at  the  St.  Louis  Hotel, 
and  if  carriages  are  desired  the  hotel  will  furnish  the  same. 
This  was  made  necessary  in  order  to  stop  the  imposition 
that  is  practiced  by  outside  parties.  There  are  four  splen- 
did drives  laid  out  for  the  visitor  and  tourist ;  a  neat  little 
pamphlet  descriptive  of  the  same,  entitled  "  Views  of  the 
City  of  Quebec,"  will  be  given  yowfree  by  asking  the  clerk, 
Mr.  Phillips,  or  the  news  agent,  Mr.  King,  of  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel. 

CITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  by  its  historic  fame  and  its  unequaled  scenery, 
is  no  ordinary  or  common-place  city,  for  though,  like  other 
large  communities,  it  carries  on  trade,  commerce  and  n-anu- 
factures ;  cultivates  art,  science  and  literature ;  abounds  in 
charities,  and  professes  special  regard  to  the  amenities  of 


■% 


I 


Xffl 


[*€- 


\\oi(^\ 


127 

social  life,  it  claims  |>articular  attention  as  being  a  strikingly 
unique  old  place,  the  stronghold  of  Canada,  and,  in  fact, 
the  Key  of  the  Province.  Viewed  from  any  of  its  ap- 
proaches, it  impresses  the  stranger  with  the  conviction  of 
strer  gth  and  permanency.  The  reader  of  American  his- 
tory, on  entering  its  gates  or  wandering  over  its  squares, 
ramparts  and  battle-fields,  puts  himself  at  once  in  commun- 
ion with  the  illustrious  dead.  The  achievements  of  daring 
mariners,  the  labors  of  self-sacrificing  Missionaries  of  the 
Cross,  and  the  conflicts  of  military  heroes,  who  bled  and 
died  in  the  assault  and  defence  of  its  walls,  are  here  re-read 
with  ten-fold  interest.  Then  the  lover  of  nature  in  her 
grandest  and  most  rugged,  as  in  her  gentler  and  most  smil- 
ing forms,  will  find  in  and  around  it  an  affluence  of  sublime 
and  beautiful  object.^.  The  man  of  science,  too,  may  be 
equally  gratified,  for  here  the  great  forces  of  nature  and 
secret  alchemy  may  be  studied  with  advantage.  Quebec 
can  never  be  a  tame  or  insipid  place,  and  with  moderate 
opportunities  for  advancement,  it  must  become  one  of  the 
greatest  cities  of  the  New  World  in  respect  to  learning,  art, 
commerce  and  manufactures. 


,  n 


m 


■^ 


The  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Cham- 
plain,  in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was  reduced  to 
fifty  souls. 

In  June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General  Wolfe 
landed  upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the  1 2th  of  Sep- 
tember took  place  the  celebrated  battle  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  Wolfe,  and  the 
defeat  of  the  French  army.  A  force  of  5,000  English  troops, 
under  General  Murray,  were  left  to  garrison  the  fort.     The 


128 

city  is  very  interesting  to  a  stranger ;  it  is  the  only  walled 
city  in  North  America.  ' 

Cape  Diamond,  upon  which  the  citadel  stands,  is  three 
hundred  and  forty- five  feet  in  height,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  quantity  of  crystal  mixed  with  the  granite  below 
its  surface.  The  fortress  includes  the  whole  space  on  the 
Cape. 

Above  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery  was  killed  is 
now  the  inclined  place,  running  to  the  top  of  the  bank  ;  it 
is  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  used  by  the  Government 
to  convey  stores  and  other  articles  of  great  weight  to  the 
fortress. 

THE  CITADEL 

will,  perhaps,  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to  many, 
from  the  historical  associations  connected  therewith,  and 
from  the  fact  that  it  is  considered  an  impregnable  fortress. 
It  covers  an  enclosed  area  of  forty  acres,  and  is  some  three 
hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  river  level.  The  zigzag 
passages  through  which  you  enter  the  fortress,  between  high 
and  massive  granite  walls,  is  swept  at  every  turn  by  formid- 
able batteries  of  heavy  guns.  On  the  forbidding  river  walls 
and  at  each  angle  or  possible  commanding  point,  guns  of 
heavy  calibre  sweep  every  avenue  of  approach  by  the  river. 
Ditches,  breast-works  and  frowning  batteries  command  the 
approaches  by  land  from  the  famed  "  Plains  of  Abraham." 
The  precipitous  bluffs,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  from 
the  river  three  hundred  and  forty  feet,  present  a  natural 
barrier  which  m\ybe  swept  with  murderous  fire,  and  the 
covered  ways  of  c.pproach  and  retreat,  the  various  kinds 


is  the  only  walled 

idel  stands,  is  three 
nd  derives  its  name 
J  the  granite  below 
whole  space  on  the 

;omery  was  killed  is 
op  of  the  bank  ;  it 
by  the  Government 
great  weight  to  the 


it  interest  to  many, 
:ted  therewith,  and 
Tipregnable  fortress, 
s,  and  is  some  three 
level.  The  zigzag 
irtress,  between  high 
very  turn  by  formid- 
arbidding  river  walls 
iding  point,  guns  of 
iproach  by  the  river. 
;t».rie3  command  the 
Plains  of  Abraham." 
lerpendicularly  from 
t,  present  a  natural 
derous  fire,  and  the 
:,  the  various  kinds 


feSf 


■■  :.'v:-'i:.'-fr..si.-.  ;  ■.-..i,^:.i^  ^'l^'iin'n 


MiMM*rflMMl6«lMH 


and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers  and  munitions  of 
war,  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest.  Among  the  places 
of  note  may  be  mentioned  the  Plains  of  Abr4ham,  with 
its  humble  monument,  marking  the  place  where  fell  the 
illustrious  Wolfe ;  ihe  Governor's  Garden,  with  its  monu- 
ment to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm ;  the  spot  where  fell  the 
American  general,  Montgomery ;  St.  John's  Gate,  the  only 
gate  remaining  of  the  five  that  originally  pierced  the  walls 
of  the  city ;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  with  its  many 
fine  old  paintings;  the  Episcopal  Cathedral ;  the  Esplanade, 
from  which  is  one  of  the  finest  views  in  the  world  ;  Houses 
of  Parliament ;  Spencer  Wood,  the  residence  of  the  Lieut. 
Governor,  Laval  University,  &c.,  &c 

The  city  and  environs  abound  in  drives,  varying  from 
five  to  thirty  miles,  in  addition  to  being  on  the  direct  line 
of  travel  to  the  far-famed  Saguenay,  Murray  Bay,  Kamour- 
aska,  Gacouna,  Rimouski  Gaspe,  and  other  noted  watering 
places.     :■■■       ■'  -"■-         •    -  "'  >',;:r:. 

Quebec  can  minister  abundantly  to  the  tastes  of  those 
who  like  to  fish,  yacht,  or  shoot.  Yachting,  in  fact,  has 
become  of  late  the  leading  recreation  in  Quebec.  You  can 
on  those  mellow  Saturday  afternoons  of  August  and  Sep- 
tember meet  the  whole  sporting  and  fashionable  world  of 
Upper  Town  on  the  Durham  Terrace  or  Lower  Town 
wharves,  bent  on  witnessing  a  trial  of  speed  or  seamanship 
between  the  Mouette,  the  Black  Hawk,  the  Wasp,  the 
Shannon,  the  Bonhomme  Richard,  and  half  a  score  of  crack 
yachts,  with  their  owners. 

I..et  us  see  what  the  city  contains : — First,  the  west  wing, 
built  about  1789,  by  Governor  Haldimand,  to  enlarge  the 


a»8iWiMi*'.fcV?a.!!ftfl«!KSi.'«'<l»»t^*  »"' 


I30 

old  chateau  burnt  down  in  January,  1734  ;  this  mouldering 
pile,  now  used  as  the  Normal  School,  is  all  that  remains  of 
the  stately  edifice  of  old,  overhangmg  and  facing  the  Cul- 
de-Sac,  where  the  lordly  Count  de  Frontenac  held  his  quasi 
regal  court  in  1691;  next,  the  Laval  University,  founded  in 
1854,  confening  degrees  under  its  loyal  charter;  the  course 
of  study  is  similar  to  that  of  the  celebrated  European  Uni- 
versity of  Louvain  ;  then  there  is  the  Quebec  Seminary, 
erected  by  Bishop  Laval,  at  Montmorency,  in  1663  ;  the 
Ursuline  Convent,  founded  in  1636  by  Madame  de  la 
Peltrie  ;  this  nunnery,  with  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
which  was  built  in  1646,  contains  many  valuable  paintings, 
which  left  France  about  1789;  the  General  Hospital, 
founded  two  centuries  ago  by  Monseigneur  de  St.  ValHer ; 
in  1759,  it  was  the  chief  hospital  for  the  wounded  and  the 
dying  of  the  memorable  battle  of  the  13th  September ;  Ar- 
nold and  his  Continentals  found  protection  against  the 
rigors  of  a  Canadian  winter  behind  its  walls  in  1775-6  ;  the 
Hotel  Dieu  Nunnery,  close  to  Palace  Gate,  dating  more 
than  200  years  back. 

As  to  the  views  to  be  obtained  from  Durham  Terrace, 
the  Glacis  and  the  Citadel,  they  are  unique  in  grandeur. 
Each  street  has  its  own  familiar  vista  of  the  surrounding 
country.  .^ 

THE  SHRINE  AND  FALLS  OF  STE.ANNE. 

'At  the  distance  of  about  twenl  '  .-  'clow  Quebec  is 
the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beauprc  "leames  called  Ste. 
Anne  du  Nord,  and  always  called  La  ^on,;e  Ste.  Anne,  to 
whom  is  consecrated  the  parish  church,  erected  about  four 


mmtk 


[4 ;  this  mouldering 
i  all  that  remains  of 
and  facing  the  Cul- 
tenac  held  his  quasi 
liversity,  founded  in 
charter;  the  course 
ited  European  Uni- 

Quebec  Seminary, 
ency,  in  1663  ;  the 
by  Madame  de   la 

Catholic  Cathedral, 
f  valuable  paintings, 

General  Hospital, 
;neur  de  St.  Vallier ; 
iie  wounded  and  the 
3th  September ;  Ar- 
itection  against  the 
(valls  in  1775-6  ;  the 

Gate,  dating  more 


n  Durham  Terrace, 

unique  in  grandeur. 

of  the  surrounding 


>FSTE.ANNE. 

>  lelow  Quebec  is 

"ifiimes  called  Ste. 

iJmii;e  Ste.  Anne,  to 

,  erected  about  four 


■HMiHi 


131       . 

years  ago  by  the  Pope  into  a  shrine  of  the  first  order,  in 
which  is  a  fine  painting  by  the  famous  artist  LeBrun,  Ste. 
Anne  and  the  Virgin,  presented  by  M.  de  Tracy,  Viceroy  of 
New  France,  in  1666,  to  the  church,  for  benefits  received. 
The  festival  day  of  this  Saint  is  the  26th  of  July,  at  which 
time  thousands  of  pilgrims  proceed  not  only  by  steamer  and 
carriage,  but  on  foot,  to  this  holy  shrine ;  many  walk  the 
whole  distance  from  Quebec  to  the  church  as  a  penance,  or 
in  performance  of  vows.  The  church  is  a  new  building,  the 
old  one  having  been  found  too  small  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  crowds  of  pilgrims  who  resorted  there.  In  it  are 
placed  thousands  of  crutches,  left  by  those  who  departed 
after  being  cured  of  the  lameness  and  other  maladies  by  the 
Bonne  Ste.  Anne,  whose  praises  are  worid  wide,  for  hither 
congregate  daily  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  to  be 
cured  of  their  infirmities.  Deposited  in  the  sanctuary  is  a 
holy  relic,  being  a  finger  bone  of  the  saint  herself,  on  kiss- 
ing which  the  devotee  is  immediately  relieved  of  all  woridly 
ills  and  misfortunes.  Wonder  begins  and  misbelief  vanishes 
on  gazing  at  the  piles  of  crutches  ;  there  one  beholds  un- 
mistakable evidence  of  the  unlimited  medicinal  power  of 
the  mother  of  the  Virgin.  Daily  are  the  proofs  of  this 
power  ;  the  stranger  can  see  with  his  own  eyes  the  decrepid, 
the  halt,  the  sore,  the  "lame,  the  wounded  carried  into  the 
holy  sanctuary  and  depart  therefrom,  after  kissing  the  holy 
relict,  cured  and  whole.  Many  are  the  scenes  here  witnessed 
of  the  despairing  filled  with  renewed  hope,  and  the  feeble 
ind  faint  glad  again  with  strength  and  health.  Countless 
are  the  anecdotes  of  the  hopelessly  blind  and  lame  return- 
ing to  their  friends  with  sight  and  firm  limbs,  leaving  behind 
them   their  bandages  and  crutches.     Incredulity  vanishes 


I  i 


l!l.l 


m 


I  !? 


■    s 


SiS«5^B^»|fer#ii»fts*  »Sm^^mimmmm'mt^m:i.mtmmmm»mm<-'^mui>mmmsmm^ 


IF 


132 

before  such  evidence,  and  the  sceptic  leaves  the  shrine  of 
Ste.  Anne  with  convictions  deeply  settled  in  his  soul.  Within 
three  miles  of  the  village  are  the  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne,  which 
consists  of  seven  cascades,  one  of  which  rushes  through  a 
narrow  chasm,  which  can  be  leaped  by  one  of  strong  nerves 
and  sinews,  but  powerful  as  Ste.  Anne  is,  and  devoted  as 
she  is  to  miracles,  it  is  doubtful  whether  even  she  could  save 
the  unfortunate  who  misses  his  leap. 

The  fishing  above  and  below  the  Falls  is  very  good  for 
both  salmon  and  trout,  and  the  scenery  of  that  wild  descrip- 
tion generally  characteristic  of  the  Laurentian  ranges. 

MONTM  ORENCY  FALLS 

is  seven  miles  below  Quebec  The  road  is  very  pleasant, 
passing  through  the  French  village  of  Beauport.  Those  who 
expect  to  see  a  second  Niagara  will  be  very  much  disap- 
pointed. The  steam  descends  in  silvery  threads,  over  a 
precipice  240  feet  in  height,  and,  in  connection  with  the 
surrounding  scenery,  is  extremely  picturesque  and  beautiful, 
but  inspires  none  of  the  awe  felt  at  Niagara. 

POINT  LEVIS, 

on  the  other  side  of  the  river  opposite  Quebec,  will  interest 
the  stranger  very  much,  immense  and  stupendous  fortifica- 
tions being  in  process  of  erection.  Most  tourists  visiting 
Quebec,  pay  the  Saguenay  a  visit.  The  ticket  office  of  this 
line  is  opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  where  my  genial  friend, 
Mr.  R.  M.  Stocking,  will  cheerfully  impart  any  information 
required,  he  being  the  agent  for  all  railroads  and  steamboats 
in  Canada  or  that  connect  with  the  same  in  the  United 
States. 


eaves  the  shrine  of 
din  his  soul.  Within 
}f  Ste.  Anne,  which 
[-.h  rushes  through  a 
one  of  strong  nerves 
;  is,  and  devoted  as 
■  even  she  could  save 

alls  is  very  good  for 
of  that  wild  descrip- 
entian  ranges. 

ALLS 

ad  is  very  pleasant, 
auport.  Those  who 
)e  very  mucli  disap- 
rery  threads,  over  a 
connection  with  the 
esque  and  beautiful, 
igara. 


Quebec,  will  interest 
stupendous  fortifica- 
Vlost  tourists  visiting 
e  ticket  office  of  this 
ere  my  genial  friend, 
part  any  information 
oads  and  steamboats 
same  in  the  United 


'33 


WE  CALL  THEM  TRAMPS. 

During  the  Centennial  year  many  foreigners  were  alwa)rs 
found  among  the  list  of  passengers  from  every  country.  The 
proverbial  English  tourist  cannot  be  mistaken  by  any  but 
this  year,  1876,  we  had  many  who  were  too  green  or  un- 
sophistical  to  be  in  that  class.  Now  this  truthful  occur- 
rence which  I  am  about  to  relate  is  original  and  occurred 
upon  one  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
line  of  boats.  The  Englisman  was  relating  to  his  newly 
found  friend  his  opinion  of  the  United  States,  etc.,  in  his 
own  peculiar  style.  Hi  don't  like  this  blareted  country  you 
know !  Why,  said  his  friend,  what  fault  can  you  find  with 
America  ?  Oh !  Hi've  been  all  over  it  you  know,  and  can't 
find  any  sawciety  there.  Society,  said  his  friend,  what  do  you 
mean  by  society  ?  Oh,  dear  me,  you  ha  ve  no  gentlemen  or  gen- 
tlemen's sons  in  h' America  Why,  what  do  you  mean  by  gen- 
tlemen and  gentlemen's  sons  ?  Oh !  Hi  mean  genti  len  who 
never  did  any  work  you  know,  nor  their  sons  either.  You 
make  a  mistake  there,  my  worthy  friend,  we  have  millions 
of  them  here  but  we  call  them  tfamps,  and  I  have  often 
thought  it  the  best  definition  to  a  tramp  I  ever  heard,  for  if 
there  are  gentlemen  and  their  sons  here  who  never  did  any 
work  they  will  soon  make  good  timber  for  tramps  if  they  are 
not  already. 


RIVER  SAGUENAY. 


To  the  pleasure-seeker,  or  to  the  man  of  science,  there  can 
be  nothing  more  refreshing  and  delightful,  anything  afford- 
ing more  food  for  reflection  or  scientific  observation,  than  a 
trip  to  that  most  wonderful  of  rivers,  the  Saguenay.    On 


134 

the  way  thither,  the  scenery  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  is 
extraordinarily  picturesque ;  a  broad  expanse  of  water,  in- 
terspersed with  rugged  solitary  islets,  highly  cultivated 
islands,  and  islands  covered  with  trees  to  the  water's  edge, 
hemmed  in  by  lofty  and  precipitous  mountains  on  the  one 
side,  and  by  a  continuous  street  of  houses,  relieved  by 
beautifully  situated  villages,  the  spires  of  whose  tin-covered 
churches  glitter  in  the  sunshine,  affords  a  prospect  so  en- 
chanting, that,  were  nothing  else  to  be  seen,  the  tourist 
would  be  well  repaid ;  but  when,  in  addition  to  all  this,  the 
tourist  suddenly  passes  from  a  landscape  unsurpassed  for 
beauty  into  a  region  of  primitive  grandeur,  where  art  has 
done  nothing,  and  nature  everything ;  when,  at  a  single 
bound,  civilization  is  left  behind  and  nature  stares  him  in 
the  face,  in  naked  majesty ;  when  he  sees  Alps  on  Alps 
arise  ;  when  he  floats  over  unfathomable  depths,  through  a 
mountain  gorge,  the  sublime  entirely  overwhelms  the  sense 
of  sight  and  fascinates  imagination. 

The  change  produced  upon  the  thinking  part  of  man,  in 
passing  from  the  broad  St.  Lawrence  into  the  seemingly 
narrow  and  awfully  deep  Saguenay,  whose  waters  leave  the 
sides  of  the  towering  mountains,  which  almost  shut  out  the 
very  light  of  heaven,  is  such  as  no  pen  can  paint  nor  tongue 
describe.  It  is  a  river  one  should  see  if  only  to  know  what 
dreadful  aspects  nature  can  assume  in  wild  moods.  Com- 
pared to  it  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  cosy  and  smiling;  it  is  wild  and  grand,  apparently, 
in  spite  of  itself  On  either  side  rise  cliflfs  varying  in  perpen- 
dicular height  from  1,200  to  1,600  feet,  and  this  is  the 
character  of  the  River  Saguenay  from  its  mouth  to  its 
source.     Ha !  Ha !  bay,  which  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth, 


1\ 

•''''-'  f'-.:''.  \ 

■     ,  •*-'  i:  >r' 

'"    '■. '         f-.'.'  '  :,■■- 

•    i 

wer  St.  Lawrence  is 
:panse  of  water,  in- 
,  highly  cultivated 
!0  the  water's  edge, 
ountains  on  the  one 
houses,  relieved  by 
if  whose  tin-covered 
s  a  prospect  so  en- 
)e  seen,  the  tourist 
iition  to  all  this,  the 
ape  unsurpassed  for 
deur,  where  art  has 
;  when,  at  a  single 
lature  stares  him  in 
sees  Alps  on  Alps 
le  depths,  through  a 
/erwhelms  the  sense 

cing  part  of  man,  in 
into  the  seemingly 
3se  waters  leave  the 
almost  shut  out  the 
;an  paint  nor  tongue 
F  only  to  know  what 
wild  moods.  Com- 
g,  and  the  wildest 
1  grand,  apparently, 
fs  varying  in  perpen- 
;et,  and  this  is  the 
m  its  mouth  to  its 
iles  from  its  mouth, 


135 

affords  the  first  landing  and  anchorage.  The  name  of  this 
bay  is  said  to  arise  from  the  circumstance  of  early  navi- 
gators proceeding  in  sailing  vessels  up  a  river  of  this  kind 
for  60  miles,  with  eternal  sameness  of  feature,  stern  and 
high  rocks  on  which  they  could  not  land,  and  no  bottom  for 
their  anchors,  at  last  broke  out  into  laughing  Ha!  Hal 
when  they  found  landing  and  anchorage.  This  wonderful 
river  seems  one  huge  mountam  rent  asunder  at  some  remote 
age  by  some  great  convulsion  of  nature.  The  reader  who 
goes  to  see  it  (and  all  ought  to  do  so  who  can,  for  it  is  one 
of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  the  continent),  can  add  to 
the  poetical  filling  up  of  the  picture  from  his  own  imagina- 
tion;.   .  ,:;!.;    ,    -i^,  ..^,j..    •,       ..■.:.....:    !.:■:.■  ■^■::  :.  ■  / '.■  ■      ... 

This  beautiful  trip  is  easy  and  facile  of  accomplishment, 
as  new  and  magnificent  boats,  rivaling  in  luxuriousness  with 
any  in  our  island  waters,  run  regularly  to  Ha !  Ha  !  bay,  on 
board  of  which  the  pleasure  seeker  will  experience  all  that 
comfort  and  accommodation  which  is  necessary  to  the  full 
enjoyment  of  such  a  trip. 

To  the  foregoing  descriptions  we  append  an  extract  from 
the  letter  of  a  writer  in  the  Buffalo  Commercial  Advertiser, 
w.io  has  apparently  gone  over  the  "ground"  with  much 
satisfaction.     Speaking  of  the  great  pleasure  route,  he  says  : 

"There  is  probably  no  route  in  the  known  world  present- 
ing more  attractions  to  the  tourist  than  that  from  Buffalo 
to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  via.  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St. 
Lawrence  river ;  presenting,  first,  the  visit  to  the  great  cat- 
aract, next,  Lake  Ontario,  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
romantic  scenery  of  the  '  Thousand  Isles ';  then  the  sublime 
rapids,  increasing  in  grandeur  to  the  great  culmination  of 


i;;1 


SwiJfSfgfjpiig-^ 


^H 


the  '  Lachine  rapids,'  and  finally  finishing  with  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  and  around  the  Falls  of  Montmorency,  at  Que- 
bec, and  down  the  Saguenay — all  combine  to  make  up  more 
of  the  wild,  romantic  and  sublime  than  can  be  found  in  the 
same  number  of  mites  and  almost  any  traveled  route  in  the 
known  world."        ■••  ;''*'  :'-''■  *"-  ?'■  ;»«^;?r  'k;3«;.,». 

Returning  to  Montreal  for  our  trip  down  Lake  Champlain 
and  Lake  George,  to  Saratoga,  Albany,  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton, as  most  of  the  tourists  have  tickets  for  these  destinations, 
the  routes  need  only  be  mentioned.  The  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son Canal  Company  Railroad,  and  Central  Vermont  have 
ticket  offices  in  Montreal,  where  information  is  courteously 
dispensed  by  obliging,  gentlemanly  clerks  at  all  times.  It 
would  be  useless  here  to  print  the  time  tables  of  the  differ- 
ent roads,  as  changes  occur  too  often  for  such  information 
to  be  reliable.  As  your  are  supposed  to  be  quartered  at  the 
new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  which  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
and  contains  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and  Delaware  & 
Hudson  Canal  Company  Offices,  and  directly  opposite  k  the 
Central  Vermont  office,  presided  over  by  A.  C.  Stonegrave, 
any  time-table  required  is  easily  obtainable ;  also  adjoining 
is  the  office  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company. 

All  railroads  issuing  summer  excursion  tickets  through, 
over  this  line,  allow  passengers,  if  they  desire,  to  procure  at 
Port  Kent  depot  a  ticket  which  entitles  them  to  visit  Au 
Sable  Chasm,  and  to  return  to  Port  Kent  for  75  cents. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  morning,  by  taking  the  first 
train  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Railroad,  if  you 
wish  to  make  Lake  George,  Saratoga  or  Albany  the  same 


■m 


aam 


T>ii 


I  with  the  beautiful 
itmorency,  at  Que- 
e  to  make  up  more 
»n  be  found  in  the 
-aveled  route  in  the 

'n  Lake  Champlain 
'^ew  York  and  Bos- 
r  these  destinations, 
i  Delaware  &  Hud- 
tral  Vermont  have 
ition  is  courteously 
:s  at  all  times.  It 
tables  of  the  differ- 
r  such  information 
be  quartered  at  the 
e  heart  of  the  city, 
1  and  Delaware  & 
sctly  opposite  is  the 
'  A.  C.  Stonegrave, 
hie ;  also  adjoining 
)ntario  Navigation 

an  tickets  through, 
lesire,  to  procure  at 
!  them  to  visit  Au 
it  for  75  cents. 

)y  taking  the  first 
lai  Railroad,  if  you 
r  Albany  the  same 


»37 

day,  your  ticket  may  read  Lake  Champlain  Co.  steamers, 
but  it  is  all  the  same — boat  and  rail  belong  to  the  same 
parties.  Should  you  desire  to  take  Lake  Champlain,  leave 
Montreal  in  the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm,  via 
Port  Kent,  remain  over  night  at  Lake  View  House,  taking 
the  boat  at  8  a.  m.  from  there  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  and 
then  down  Lake  George,  or  proceed  on  the  train  at  10:30. 
By  getting  off  at  Port  Kent  the  distance  to  Lake  View 
House  is  only  three  miles  by  stage  over  a  first-class  plank 
road  ;  therefore,  it  may  be  said,  if  you  desire  to  make  both 
lakes  on  the  same  day,  you  are  compelled  to  leave  Mont- 
real in  the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm  via  Port 
Kent,  and  remain  over  night  at  the  I^ke  View  Hotel, 
which  will  be  found  to  be  an  excellent  house  ;  taking  the 
boat  in  the  morning.  If  tickets  read  by  the  Central  Ver- 
mont Railroad  you  go  to  Burlington,  where  you  arrive  for 
supper,  and  as  the  boat  does  not  leave  there  until  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  you  have  plenty  of  time  to  see  that 
beautiful  city  before  the  leaving  of  the  boat ;  at  any  rate 
you  won't  have  to  rise  as  early  as  if  you  were  at  Plattsburg. 

MY  FIRST  VISIT  TO  AU  SABLE  CHASM. 

As  long  as  anything  shall  lemain  green  in  my  memory,  I 
feel  confident  it  will  be  the  impression  of  that  charming 
view  and  grand  natural  spectacle,  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

Arising  early  in  the  morning,  if  not  with  the  lark,  a  very 
good  second  in  the  race,  I  was  invited  by  the  manager  of 
the  Lake  View  House  to  visit  the  chasm.     Accepting  the  . 
same,  we  proceeded  through  the  gate  and  down  the  steps, 
which  I  did  not  stop  to  count ;  but  the  number  was  sufii- 


AUSABLE  CHASM  I 

ONE  OF  THE  GREAT  NATURAL  WONDERS  OF  THE  WOBLD. 

It  Iiati  been  well  Haid  by  TouristH  fVuiii  all  Parts  of 

the  World  that  a  YlHlt  to  the  ChaHiu  would 

Repay  a  Voyage  I'rom  Europe. 

NO  LOYEB  OF  FINE  S0ENEB7  SHOULD  OXIT  TO  VISIT  IT. 

AuMible  Chium  it  in  Eiwex  County.  New  York,  QO  (h«  wt;»t  Hide  at 
Lakt)  Champlalii.  .,  ' . 

HOW  TO  REACH  AITSABLE  CHASM: 

nnnT  |/r||T  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Co.'g  R.  R  .  the  tliroDKb  route 
run  I  nLlI  I  between  N.  Y.  and  Canada,  Ih  the  Railroad  Ktation  for 
Aiwanle  CbaMui  and  l»  also  a  port  ou  Lake  Cliaiiiplain  where  all  traiuM  and 
H(eamlx>atH  Htop  and  stages  are  always  waiting  for  Ausahle  Chasm  and  Lake 
View  iloiise.  Tourixta  will  find  by  way  of  Port  Kent.  Aiisable  Chasm  and 
Ausable  Forks  is  The  Brat  Point  for  Biitran<-«  Into  or  Rxlt 
From  the  A41rondHck  Wlldern«M,  It  lieinK  as  Khort  and  con- 
venient as  any,  and  by  far  the  most  beautiful  and  jilcturesque,  prewenting 
the  opportunity  to  visit  the  far  famed  Cbamn.  All  faoilities  and  informa- 
tion cheerfully  furnlRhed,  and  extra  baggage  may  be  left  at  Lake  View 
House  until  return  without  charge.  Stages  leave  and  arrive  daily  l>etween 
Lake  View  House,  Ansable  Forks  and  all  parts  of  the  woods.  Parties  of 
four  or  more  may  obtain  private  conveyances  at  regular  stage  fare. 

LAKE  VIEW  HOFSE. 

Only  flrst'Class  hotel  at  Chasm,  Delightfully  rltuated  near  Chasm  Entrance, 
commanding  views  of  Lake  Cliamplain.  Adirondack  and  Oreon  Mountains. 
Appointments  flrst-class.  Tables  of  the  Iwst,  vegetables  fresh  from  the  hotel 
farm.  .\ir  reniaraably  dry  and  health-giving,  no  malaria.  Every  effort 
will  be  made  to  make  this  hotel  an  attractive  summer  resort. 

lilBERAL  TERMS  TO   PERMANENT  GUESTS. 

Send  for  circular  and  information. 


N.  C.  BOYNTON, 


Manager  for  Ausable  Co. 


[ASM  I 

;  OF  THE  WORLD. 

'oiii  nil  PartK  of 
7htutiki  would 
irope. 

OXIT  TO  VISIT  IT. 

<m  ll)«  vritit  »id«  of 

LECHASU: 


R.  R  .  the  tliroi))ch  route 
w  Hallrnad  Ktation  for 
ill  wliHre  all  traiiiH  and 
.usable  Chamii  and  Lake 
t.  Autiahle  Cliagiii  and 
'*nc«  Into  or  Rxlt 
jltiK  wi  Khort  and  con- 
jilcturesque,   nrpmsntlng 

faeilitieH  ana  informa- 
■  be  left  at  Lake  View 
nd  arrive  dally  iHstween 

the  woods.  Parties  of 
;ular  gta^e  fare. 

OUSE.    ■ 

d  near  Chasm  Entrance, 
[  and  OreoD  Mountains, 
bles  fresh  from  the  hotel 
malaria.  Every  effort 
er  resort. 

(ENT  GUESTS. 


NTON, 

arfor  Ausable  Co. 


1^ 

cient  for  a  man  of  my  weight,  and  as  large  bodies  move 
slowly,  I  was  behind  the  rest  of  our  gay,  hilarious  jarty,  be- 
cause I  remained  to  drink  in  the  beauties  my  eyes  were 
feasting  upon.  Reaching  the  end  of  the  chasm,  where  we 
take  the  boat  for  the  rapids,  I  did  not  have  confidence  to 
proceed  the  rest  of  the  journey  with  my  companions  (as  I 
felt  I  was  too  large  a  crowd  f(.r  the  boat),  but,  returning  as 
I  came,  which  very  few  people  do,  I  was  more  impressed 
by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery — more  than  going  down. 
Returning  to  the  hotel  some  hours  after  my  party,  I  had 
iftories  to  tell  that  caused  many  of  them  to  return  and  make 
the  trip  that  1  had.  If  there  is  any  view  on  earth  that  will 
please  you,  it  is  the  one  obtained  from  any  point  at  the 
Lake  View  House,  Au  Sable  Chasm,  looking  at  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  one 
side,  and  the  Chasm  or  Adirondacks  on  the  other. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad,  boats  left  Rouse's 
Point  on  Lake- Champlain,  and  a  train  left  Montreal  to 
connect ;  but  as  the  route  on  Lake  Champlain  has  been 
discontinued,  from  Rouse's  Point  tb  Plattsburg,  really  the 
most  picturesque  part  of  the  trip  down  Lake  Champlain, 
being  cut  off,  most  of  the  tourists  take  the  rail  in  the 
morning  from  Montreal  and  can  pass  through  Lake  Cham- 
plain by  rail.  The  rail  passing  close  along  the  lake  shore, 
one  gets  a  very  nice  view — better,  as  I  have  often  expressed 
it,  than  if  the  parties  were  on  the  boat,  as  they  cannn^  see 
both  shores  in  a  boat  at  once,  unless  the  tourist's  eyes 
were  cut  on  the  bias  or  cross,  thus  enabling  them  to  see 
both  sides  at  once.  The  rail  is  preferable  and  saves  time. 
As  it  is  immaterial  to  me  how  you  reach  Ticonderoga,  it  is 


m 


I40 

presumed  you  get  there.  Lake  George  Junction  is  where  you 
change  cars  and  connect  for  Baldwin,  which  is  a  ride  of 
about  fifteen  minutes.  You  are  now  supposed  to  have  ar- 
rived  on  board  the  company's  steamers  HorUon  or  Ticonderoga 
and  are  sailing  up  Lake  George.  Now,  if  the  reader  expects 
me  to  describe  Lake  George,  I  shall  simply  say  No  I  with  a 
large  N.  It  is  too  much  ;  its  praises  have  been  written  and 
sung  for  the  past  half  century  by  thousands.  I  shall  with 
pleasure  and  relief  to  myself  ask  the  loan  of  your  scissors. 
Thanks ;  now  we  can  comply  with  your  wishes :  We  have 
started  on  our  trip  through  this  magical  lake.  It  is  difficult 
to  describe  the  quiet  delight  one  feels  as  he  gazes  on  the 
expanse  of  the  tranquil  azure  spread  before  him  like  a  part 
of  the  sky  inlaid  on  the  emerald  bosom  of  the  earth. 
Peace  is  in  the  very  air  which  lazily  slumbers  over  the  water, 
while  the  monotone  of  the  silvery  ripples  rolling  on  the  yel- 
low sands,  and  the  m  'cal  moan  of  the  breeze  in  the  cone- 
scented  pines,  seen  "arry  the  soul  back  to  other  days. 
Lake  George  is,  inc  ke  a  work  of  art  of  the  highest 

order,  for  it  has  the  quality  of  improving,  the  more  one 
studies  its  attractions,  and  the  ever-harmonious  flow  of 
lines  constantly  suggests  a  composition  of  consumate  genius 
in  which  every  effect  has  been  combined  to  produce  a  cer- 
tain ideal. 

Now,  dear  reader,  I  have  a  favor  to  ask  of  you ;  read  this 
little  book  as  far  as  Saratoga  description  commences ;  then 
lay  it  aside,  and  feast  the  eyes  on  Lake  George  for  the  next 
two  hours,  and,  if  you  can  describe  its  beauties,  do  so  to 
the  best  of  your  ability,  and  forward  to  me,  ai  Chestnut 
Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  it  shall  have  a  place  in  this 
work,  and  you  shall  have  the  credit  for  the  same ;— the  task 
was  too  much  for  me. 


tction  is  where  you 
hich  in  a  ride  of 
posed  to  have  ar. 
ran  or  Ticonderoga 
the  reader  expects 
ily  say  No  !  with  a 
;  been  written  and 
ds.  I  shall  with 
I  of  your  scissors, 
vishes :  We  have 
ike.     It  is  difficult 

he  gazes  on  the 
re  him  like  a  part 
om  of  the  earth, 
ers  over  the  water, 
rolling  on  the  yel- 
ireeze  in  the  conc- 
ick  to  other  days, 
irt  of  the  highest 
ng,  the  more  one 
rmonious  flow  of 
consumate  genius 

to  produce  a  cer- 

c  of  you ;  read  thi» 
commences;  then 
ieorge  for  the  next 
beauties,  do  so  \o 
me,  31  Chestnut 
/e  a  place  in  this 
e  same  j — the  task 


i4» 

CAMPING  OUT. 

The  lake  is  a  famous  camping-ground,  during  July  and 
August,  and  its  enjoyments,  with  bits  of  sound  advice,  can 
not  be  better  given  than  by  the  following,  from  Stoddart's 
charming  guide  to  Lake  George  : 

"  The  lovely  islands  are  suddenly  astir  with  busy  throngs. 
Rocks  are  decked  with  blue  and  gray,  the  tree  tops  blush 
with  bunting ;  shores  put  on  a  flannelly  hue,  and  shadowy 
point  blossom  out  in  duck  and  dimity.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  in  the  course  of  the  season  a  thousand  people  taste  the 
pleasures  and  overcome  the  difficulties  that  but  season  the 
glorious  dish  of  camp  life  at  Lake  George.  Among  the 
necessaries  are  a  light  axe,  long  handle  frying-pan,  tin  pail 
for  water  or  coffee,  tin  plate,  pint  cup,  knife  and  fork,  and 
fishing  tackle.  A  stove-top  laid  on  a  fire-place  of  stones 
and  mud,  and  supi  od  with  one  length  of  stove-pipe,  is  a 
positive  luxury  to  the  cook.  Spruce  boughs  for  a  bed,  with 
two  or  three  good  woolen  blankets  for  covering,  will  be 
found  very  comfortable ;  a  small  bag  to  fill  with  leaves  or 
moss  for  a  pillow  pays  for  itself  in  one  night.  Flannel  or 
woolen  clothing,  with  roomy  boots  and  a  soft  felt  hat,  is 
ordinarily  the  safest  dress.  Ladies,  wear  what  you  have  a 
mind  to — you  will,  anyway — but  let  it  be  flannel  next  to 
you,  good  strong  shoes  under  foot,  and  a  man's  felt  hat  over- 
head ;  take  the  man  along  too — he  will  be  useful  to  take 
the  fish  off  your  hook,  run  errands,  etc. 

Boats  and  provisions  may  be  obtamed  at  almost  any  of 
the  hotels.  Bacon,  salt  pork,  bread  and  butter,  Boston 
crackers,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  pepper  and  salt,  with  a  tin  box 
or  two  for  containing  the  same,  are  among  the  things  need- 


^^^m!Sm6^^Smimism«^mami»ammmnmmamBm>m 


142 

ed.  Milk  can  be  obtained  regularly  at  the  farm  houses, 
and  berries  picked  almost  anywhere.  Ice  is  a  luxury  which 
may  be  contracted  for  and  thrown  from  the  passing  steam- 
ers daily ;  a  hole  in  the  ground  with  a  piece  of  bark  over  it. 
forms  a  very  good  ice-box.  A  drinking  cup  of  leather,  to 
carry  in  the  pocket,  comes  handy  at  times.  Broad-brimmed 
straw  hats  are  a  nuisance.  A  shanty  of  boughs  will  answer 
in  absence  of  anything  better;  it  sounds  well  when  you 
talk  about  'roughing  it,'  but  it  is  bad  in  practice.  A  tent 
is  best,  and  may  be  made  very  comfortable  with  a  little  out- 
lay of  money  and  labor." 

THE  ADIRONDACKS.        . 

The  great  wilderness  of  north  eastern  New  York,  the 
limits  of  which  we  will  not  try  to  define,  is  generally  known 
as  the  North  Woods,  Or  as  the  Adirondacks  according  ta 
the  view  taken  of  its  surface.  The  former  title  indicates 
merely  a  wild,  densely  wooded  region  ;  the  latter,  a  region 
occupied  by  all  the  vaiied  scenery  pertaining  to  a  most  re- 
markable lake  and  mountain  system.  The  wild  region  of 
dense  forest,  majestic  mountains,  magnificent  lakes  and 
beautiful  rivers,  lies  in  the  counties  of  Herkimer,  Hamilton, 
Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Clinton,  Franklin  and  Essex,  and. 
aggregates  over  3,500,000  acres,  a  tract  of  land  of  an  area 
of  nearly  100  square  miles.  This  region  is  the  only  primi- 
tive hunting  and  fishing  grounds  left  in  New  York  state,  and 
offering,  as  it  does,  rare  health-restoring  qualities,  combined 
with  excellent  deer  hunting,  and  the  best  of  brook  and  lake 
trout  fishing  accessible,  is  yearly  more  than  doubling  its 
number  of  visitors—in  fact,  the  limit  is  only  measured  by 
hotel  capacity.     It  is  not  our  purpose,  nor  would  it  be  pos- 


t  the  farm  houses, 
;  is  a  luxury  which 
the  passing  steam- 
see  of  bark  over  it 

cup  of  leather,  to- 
5.  Broad-brimmed 
boughs  will  answer 
ds  well  when  you 

practice.  A  tent 
le  with  a  little  out- 

1  New  York,  the 
s  generally  known 
acks  according  to. 
mer  title  indicates 
he  latter,  a  regiort 
ling  to  a  most  re- 
'he  wild  region  of 
lificent  lakes  and 
rkimer,  Hamilton, 
1  and  Essex,  and 
of  land  of  an  area 
1  is  the  only  primi- 
ew  York  state,  and 
[ualities,  combined 
of  brook  and  lake 
than  doubling  its 
only  measured  by 
ir  would  it  be  pos- 


>«i«««qpNifMPI 


143 

sible  in  so  small  a  work  as  this,  to  go  into  details  as  to  the 
wilderness,  but  guide  books  are  easily  obtained,  and  from 
one  of  them  we  take  the  following : 

"  The  Adirondack  wilderness,  as  known  to  the  public  gen- 
erally, may  be  divided  into  three  general  divisions  or  sys- 
tems, which  collectively  entertain  the  great  bulk  of  visitors, 
and  are  representative  of  the  whole,  namely,  the  Saranac 
and  St.  Regis  waters  of  Franklin  county,  whose  natural  gate- 
way is  Plattsburg  and  Port  Kent ;  the  mountain  region  of 
Keene,  North  Elba  and  Lake  Placid,  in  Essex  county,  with 
entrance  at  Westport,  and  the  Blue  Mountain  and  Ra- 
quette  waters,  in  Hamilton  county,  reached  by  way  of  the 
Adirondack  railroad  from  Saratoga. 

Of  these  sections  the  firsf  mentioned  has  become  the 
most  widely  celebrated  as  a  region  where  fashion  and  fish 
ing  is  admirably  blended,  and  has  its  patrons  who  are  looked 
for  as  regularly  as  ih.-  seasons.  The  second  is  less  known 
in  fact,  but  its  grand  mountains  and  lovely  valleys  have  be- 
come familip  on  the  canvass  of  our  great  painters ;  while 
the  Raquette  region  has  an  air  of  newness  and  morning 
freshness,  as  if  just  awakened  from  a  long  and  refreshing 
sleep,  and  is  making  rapid  strides  in  popular  favor.  Each 
section  while  possessing  something  of  the  characteristics 
of  the  others,  has  its  own  individual  attractions  ;  and  tvhile 
connected  by  natural  highways,  over  which  the  nomad  often 
goes,  they  still,  to  a  considerable  extent,  preserve  their  indi- 
viduality, and  each  is  complete  and  sufficient  unto  itself 

A  peculiarity  of  the  Adirondack  region  is  its  freedtrn 
from  rough  or  vicous,  characters.     Evil  finds  nothing  con- 


tmH-ljt_ull(  -JiiiiJUMi 


144 


genial  in  its  bright  skies  and  pure,  fresh  atmosphere.  Con- 
ventionalities that  obtain  at  other  resorts  are  not  held  here, 
and  it  is  possible  for  gentlemen  to  wear  blue  shirts  and  soft 
hats,  and  for  ladies  to  travel  without  male  escort  other  than 
the  necessary  compliment  of  guides  to  furnish  motive  power, 
from  one  end  of  the  wilderness  to^the  other. 

Full  dress  is  seldom  seen,  even  at  the  most  fashionable 
resorts,  and  is  exceeded  in  absurdity  only  by  the  conven- 
tional "stage  trapper,"  who  occasionally  burst  upon  the 
astonished  wilderness  in  fringed  buckskin.  Your  right  to 
enter  the  best  society  will  not  be  questioned  because  of 
dress.  Clothing  ordinarily  worn  is  sufficent  for  all  occa- 
sions here." 

The  Adirondack  region  is  steadily  growing  in  favor  as  a 
resort  for  persons  afflicted  with  throat  and  lung  troubles ; 
and  while  it  is  not  by  any  means^a  sure  cure  for  all,  how- 
ever deeply  seated  the  disease  may  have  become,  yet  if  per- 
sons so  afflicted  will  go  therefn^time,  they  will  find  the  dry, 
pure  air,  impregnated  as  it  is  with  balsam  and  pine,  to  be 
of  infinite  relief,  and  many  living  witnesses  are  there  found 
to  prove  its  benefits.  Several  articles  have  been  written 
upon  this  subject  which  misled  the  public,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, many  people,  past  all  possiblejcure,  have  been  sent 
there,  with  only  natural  results.  We  would  only  say,  con- 
sult your  physician,  and,  if  you  are  not  past  cure,  we  be- 
lieve this  section  to  be  as  nearly  affording  a  remedy  as  any 
spot  on  the  continent. 

Places  of  entertainment,  from  the  well-appointed  hotel  on 
the  border  to  the  rude  log-house  and  open  camp  of  the  in- 
terior, are  found  at  short  intervals  throughout  the  entire 


atmosphere.  Con- 
:s  are  not  held  here, 
blue  shirts  and  soft 
le  escort  other  than 
irnish  motive  power, 
:her.    ;;;.   :r):...:.-,:}'-:iiy. 

he  most  fashionable 
nly  by  the  conven- 
lly  burst  upon  the 
ikin.  Your  right  to 
estioned  because  of 
fficent  for  all  occa- 

owing  in  favor  as  a 
and  lung  troubles ; 
•e  cure  for  a//,  how- 
I  become,  yet  if  per- 
ey  will  find  the  dry, 
sam  and  pine,  to  be 
ises  are  there  found 
have  been  written 
:blic,  and,  in  conse- 
;ure,  have  been  sent 
rould  only  say,  con- 
t  past  cure,  we  be- 
ng  a  remedy  as  any 

-appointed  hotel  on 
pen  camp  of  the  in- 
rooghout  the  entire 


MS 

wilderness,  all   waiting  with    open  doors  to  receive  the 

stranger. 

Guides  and  boats  may  be  had  at  all  the  hotels.         ' ■^'" 
Under  head  of  "  Gateways "  will  be  found  the  nearest 

points  reached  by  railroad  and  stage  routes,  distances,  etc., 

to  the  most  prominenf  resorts. 

GATEWAYS. 

PORT  KENT 
is  the  station  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company's 
Railroad  on  through  route,  New  York  to  Canada,  all  par- 
ties who  desire  to  visit  Au  Sable  Chasm,  three  miles  by  good 
plank  road,  and  Lake  View  House,  stop  oflf. 

The  best  point  for  entrance  into  or  exit  from  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  Stages  run  to  all  points  from  Au  Sable  Chasm  to 
Au  Sable  Station  and  Forks,  etc.,  etc. 

From  Plattsburg,  take  Chateaugay  Railroad,  thirty-six 
miles  to  Lyon  Mountain,  thence  by  stage  four  miles  to 
Ralph's,  on  upper  Chateaugay  Lake. 

From  Au  Sable  (20  miles  west  of  Plattsburg  on  branch 
railroad).  Stages  leave  here  every  morning  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) on  arrival  of  arly  trains,  for  French's,  18  miles; 
Franklin  Falls,  20  miles ;  Bloomingdale,  28  miles ;  Loon 
Lake  House,  on  Loon  Lake,  28  miles ;  Rainbow  House, 
on  Rainbow  Lake,  35  miles  ;  Martin's  on  Saranac  Lake, 
37  miles  ;  Paul  Smith's,  on  St.  Regis  Lake,  38  miles  ;  Pros^ 
pect  House,  on  Saranac  Lake,  41  miles;  Bartlett's,  on  Sar- 
anac Lake,  49  miles.  .  j-. 

From  Elizabethtown  delightful  trips  are  made  into  the 
mountain  region,  through  Keene  Valley  via.  Indian  Pass, 


,!i 


MSK%^SS'i-KSsSf''S 


m.^mjmt!^\i^iW:tmtmm.mfi'' 


agamoeI, 


ON  GREEN  ISLAND,  LSKE  GEORGE. 


OOBSHtel  with  tht  B*iB  Ual  ^7  Mdgi.    Aldel  thii  j*k 

Wwn  Queen  JJ^nn  Gnttagcs,  ■'' ,  ^' 

SUty  ^noms  fnii  €{nEsts, 

jVfagniI|icent  ^xtiia  I)ining  ^onm, 
♦  IVIUSIC    HALIv    AND    BALL    ROOM.» 


THIS  8PLBNDID  NFW  HOTEL  IB  OPEN  FOR   GUESTS  FROM 

J  JfviE  10  JjNijiL  QcyoBER  isy 


IT  IB  BVPPUBD  wrra 


Passenger  Elevator,  Electric  Lights  and  Bells  in  every  Room,  as  well 
as  other  Modern  Conveniences. 

THE  TABLE  IS  EXCELLENT,  * 

THE  SERVICE  UNSURPASSED. 

Easy  of  access  by  Boats  from  the  North  or  South,  Baldwin  or  Caldwell, 
where  trains  with  Palace  Cars  arrive  from  Saratoga,  New  York  and  inter- 
mediate points  several  times  daily. 

For  Descriptive  Circulars  and  Plan  of  Rooms,  Address  ,,.,   -..<., 

NI.    O.    BROWN, 

Lessee  and  Proprietor, 

Bolton  Landing,  Lake  George,  Watren  Co.,  N.  Y. 


mm, 

(E  GEORGE. 


idel  thli  7IU 


>> 


xtviH  I)ining  ^onm, 

slLL  room.* 


I   OUBSTS  FROM 


OBER  1 


sy 


•^I. 


in  every  Room,  as  well 
ices. 


ISURPASSED. 

uth,  Baldwin  or  Caldwell. 
>ga,  New  York  and  inter- 

Address  .,   t   ... , 

lOWN, 

i  Proprietor, 
/atren  Co.,  N.  Y. 


and  to  Au  Sable  Pond,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in 
the  wilderness,  also  by  North  Elba,  Lake  Placid  and  Wil- 
mington Notch,  passing  immediately  under  the  shadow  of 
Whiteface  and  Haystock  Mountains,  and  out  at  Au  Sable 
station,  or  return  to  Elizabethtown. 

FACILITIES  FOR  LAKE  TRAVEL. 

The  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  a  regular 
line  of  steamboats  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  making 
three  round  trips  daily  (except  Sundays),  and  stopping  at 
all  way  landings.  The  Horicon  of  this  line,  making  the 
regular  connections  with  the  railroad,  is  a  fine  side-wheel 
steamer  203  feet  long  and  52  feet  wide  over  all,  and  is  64J 
tons  burden,  and  will  accommodate  comfortably  1,000  peo- 
ple. I  can  truthk.  say  that  upon  no  inland  lake  in  the 
world  is  the  passti  ^er  service  so  promptly  and  regularly 
done,  and  passengers  so  elegantly  cared  for  as  upon  Lake 
George.  '  '  i,'^-<.  _..  -■ 

Caldwell  is  the  railroad  terminus,  and  is  the  largest  town 
on  the  lake.  It  is  situated  at  the  extreme  southern  end,  or 
head  of  the  lake  (the  waters  flowing  north  and  emptying 
into  Lake  Champlain,  immediately  at  the  r'"ns  of  old  Fort 
Ticonderoga).  At  Caldwell,  is  located  the  handsome  dock 
and  depot  building  of  the  railroad  company,  whose  trains 
run  down  the  dock  immediately  to  the  steamers — one  of 
which  leaves  upon  the  arrival  of  each  train  for  all  points 
down  the  lake.  The  railroad  was  extended  to  this  point  in 
1883,  thus  saving  at  least  one  hour  of  time  and  better 
facilities  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists  and  pleasure 
travel. 


:!'i| 


iVj 


■ae»jMiiiM»ii»* 


148  -.'"'■ 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

Every  American,  or  tourist,  should  see  it  at  least  once. 
It  is  the  largest  of  the  Adirondack  chain,  346  feet  abo/e 
the  sea,  and  247  above  Champlain,  35  miles  long  and 
from  two  to  four  in  width,  and  fed  from  mountain  brooks 
and  springs  coming  up  from  the  bottom,  making  it  transpar- 
ent. It  is  beautifully  dotted  with  over  200  islands,  and 
surrounded  by  high  mountains,  some  rising  2,000  feet  above 
the  water,  clothed  with  foliage  and  dotted  with  villas  and 
picturesque  camps ;  one  feels  like  leaving  the  boat  and  re- 
maining in  this  bower  of  enchantment.  The  steamers  touch 
at  all  points  of  note  and  arrive  at  the  Sagamore  Hotel, 
where  you  can,  if  you  desire,  remain  over. 

CONVENIENCES.  1^ 

The  proprietor,  Mr.  M,  O.  Brown,  long  and  popularly 
known  as  a  hotel  man  on  the  lake,  will  spare  no  pains  to 
make  your  sojourn  attractive  in  all  respects. 

The  Hotel  is  elegantly  furnished  throughout,  has  a  fast 
running  elevator,  and  is  lighted  by  the  Edison  incandescent 
electric  light  in  every  room.  Fifty  rooms  added  this  year, 
a  new  extra  dining  room,  music  hall,  and  ball  room.  It 
is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  a  Mountain  spring. 

The  Cuisine  is  perfect.  The  C/u/  and  assistants  are 
from  the  leading  New  York  Hotels.  The  Head  Waiter, 
Mr.  J.  T.  McGovern,  with  his  excellent  and  full  corps  of 
carefully  trained  and  experienced  waiters,  the  best  that 
could  be  obtained.  This  is  the  only  hotel  on  the  entire 
lake  that  employs  white  male  waiters. 


see  it  at  least  once, 
lin,  346  feet  abo/e 
35  miles  long  and 
m  mountain  brooks 
,  making  it  transpar- 
:r  300  islands,  and 
iing  2,000  feet  above 
tted  with  villas  and 
ing  the  boat  and  re- 
The  steamers  touch 
le  Sagamore  Hotel, 
ret. 


long  and  popularly 
1  spare  no  pains  to 
ects. 

oughout,  has  a  fast 
£dison  incandescent 
ms  added  this  year, 
and  ball  room.  It 
ntain  spring. 

f  and  assistants  are 
The  Head  Waiter, 
It  and  full  corps  of 
iters,  the  best  that 
hotel  on  the  entire 


149 

In  the  main  office  is  the  Telegraph  Office  and  all  requis- 
ites needed  for  comfort. 

The  Lake  steamboats  land  at  the  dock  directly  in  front 
of  "  The  Sagmore."  A  large  number  of  steam  and  sailing 
yachts,  and  a  flotilla  of  smallei-  boats  are  provided  for  the 
use  of  guests  to  order. 

The  Livery  Stables  attached  keep  constantly  on  hand  sad- 
die  horses,  buggies,  buck-boards,  phaetons  and  other  car- 
riages of  all  descriptions,  to  be  had  by  applying  at  the 
office. 


^.:*>.--'+---,^;«r 


The  Lake  steamboats,  Horicon  and  Ticonderoga,  ar- 
rive  every  morning  bringing  passengers  from  Montreal, 
Lake  Champlain  and  Whitehall,  direct  to  the  wharf  of  the 
Sagamore  where  courteous  attendants  will  always  b  in 
readiness  to  assist  and  serve  the  guests  of  this  House 

As  I  have  cheerfully  recommended  tourists  for  the  last 
three  years  to  make  a  short  stay  at  least  at  this  delightful 
resort,  the  Sagamore,  and  never  met  one  afterwards  who 
did  not  thank  me  for  the  suggestion  ;  I  say  to  you  remain 
over.  I  am  confident  you  will  never  regret  it.  Connections 
are,  however,  arranged  for,  and  you  can,  if  you  wish,  leave 
immediately  for  Caldwell  or      %      ,  ^ 

^  SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

the  focus  to  which  the  fashionable  world  of  the  United 
States,  indeed,  of  Europe,  is  annually  drawn.  Here  are 
intellectual  men,  stylish  men,  the  beaux  of  Society,  and 
the  man  of  the  worid ;  ladies  of  social  rank,  the  managing 
mother,  the  marriageable  daughters,  the  fluttering  bee  of 


'4! 
11 

m 


iffsffifc'giaMiKlMWIl 


CD 

'•A0^- 

00 

00 

• 

tH 

d 

fc 

■0 

0 

0. 

> 

z 

0 

fc 
^ 

J 

< 
0 

/t 

0 

fashion,  and  the  more  gentle  bird  of  beauty,  are  founidt 
amidst  the  throng,  ire  Saratoga  is  cosmopolitan.  As  a 
gentleman  said  to  me  one  day,  "  I  can  meet  more  of  my 
friends  in  one  hour  during  the  season  at  Saratoga  than  I 
could  at  home  in  a  week."  The  ladies  here  have  ample 
opportunities  to  display  their  peculiar  charms  and  graces. ' 
The  sporting  gentleman  can  also  find  an  opportunity  to 
gratify  his  peculiar  tastes ;  the  philosopher  may  study  hu- 
man nature;  the  invalid  find  perfect  health;  in  fact  every 
one  at  Saratoga  finds  that  peculiar  pleasure  they  most 
desire.  Of  all  the  elegant  hotels  which  here  abound  we 
have  not  space  to  mention.  I  will,  therefore,  speak  of  those 
I  know,  the  United  States  and  Adelphi,  confident  they  can 
please  any  one  paying  them  a  visit. 

The  Adelphi  Hotel — This  new,  comfortable  and  petite 
hotel  is  located  on  Broadway,  contains  one  hundred  rooms, 
is  convenient  to  the  springs,  etc.,  etc.  Its  piazza  is  elevated 
one  story  above  the  street  and  commands  a  splendid  view 
up  and  down  Broadway,  as  well  as  Phila  street  opposite. 
The  proprietor,  Mr.  Wm.  H.  McCaflfery,  is  too  well  known 
to  the  traveling  community  to  need  one  word  from  me,  and 
the  gentlemen  connected  with  the  office  and  other  depart- 
ments of  the  house,  are  too  well  qualified  by  being  the 
choice  of  the  proprietor,  to  need  commendation.  It  is  "  my 
home  "  when  in  Saratoga ;  that  is  all  J  have  to  say  against 
it.  It  is  the  universal  opinion  of  tourists,  that  no  watering 
place  on  the  continent,  of  like  size,  can  compare  with  the 
unwearying  charms  of  Saratoga.  The  hotel  arrivals  some 
days  are  upwards  of  one  thousand.  One  might  become 
almost  tired  of  the  world  and  vote  every  other  place  a  bore, 


'''^i^'i'°iy&i<:fi^%^;: ,. 


■■■■'■ammiimimimm 


STANDAHD  MINERAL  WATEK. 

CATHARTIC,  ALTERATIVE,  a  Specific  for  dlsord. 

era  of  the  STOMACH,  LIVER  and  KIDNEYS, 

ECZEMA,  MALARIA,  and   all    IM- 

PURITIES  of  the  BLOOD. 


Ho  enviable  a  nanie  bas  this  famous  Mineral  Water  tbat  l)ie  matiaKers  of 
inferior  Mineral  Springs,  deairoiis  of  imitating  thft  natural  purity  of  the 
bottled  water  of  Congrefis  SprinK,  inject  a  powerful  acid  in  their  bottled 
water  to  preserve  the  crude  ingredients  in  solution— being  so  heavily  laden 
with 

Lime  and  Iron  Deposit. 

With  such  contrivances,  bogus  testimonials  and  doctered  analysis  cards, 
they  seek  to  rival  the  pure  Medicinal  Water  of  CongrcsH  Spring 

The  regular  season  visitors  to  Saratoga  fully  understand  these  crude,  harsh 
waters,  many  of  them  after  painful  experiences.  In  proof  of  tlila  w  e 
can  Pro((n<-e  •  ORBAt  KIANY  RESPONSIBLE  NAIIIKIK. 
But  the  Saratoga  visitors  witho\it  experience,  and  many  who  use  the  bottled 
waters  (often  labeled  as  curatives  for  disorders  which  tiiey  positively  agra- 
va'e),  should  remember  that  crude,  harsh  Mineral  Waters  produce  head- 
ache, a  sense  of  burning  and  internal  irritation,  and  do  Irreparable  injury 
to  the  digestive  organs  and  kidneys. 

CONaRBSS    AVATER, 

PURE,  NATURAL  AND  RELIABLE, 

NONE    GENUINE    SOLD    ON    DRAUGHT. 
For  Sale  by  Druggists,  Orocers,  Wine  Merchants  and  Hotels. 
BOTTLE    M^99    MARK. 

Ask  for  Congress  Water  and  insist  on  having    ^iO   OTHER. 


f'V, 


3--ri*« 


WATEE. 

eclflc  for  disord. 
id  KIDNEYS, 
all    IM- 
)0D. 


«r  that  I  he  maiiai^rs  of 
B  natural  purity  of  the 
ful  acid  in  their  bottled 
—being  BO  heavily  ladrn 


»EPOSIT. 


doctered  analysis  cards, 

rcsK  Sprinif 

stand  thene  crude.  Iianih 
[n  proof  of  tills  w  e 
9NSIBLE  NAUIKS. 
lany  who  use  the  Ijottled 
ch  they  poaitivply  ai^ra- 
Waters  produce  liead- 
d  do  Irreparable  injury 


rER. 
RELIABLE, 

DRAUGHT. 
uid  Hotels. 
IK. 

51 0    OTHER. 


153 

but  Saratoga  scenery,  Saratoga  atmosphere  and  Saratoga 
life  would  still  charm  by  its  ever  pleasing  peculiarities. 
Mount  McGregor,  the  place  selected  above  all  others  for  its 
pure  air,  etc.,  etc.,  as  a  residence  for  our  hero.  Gen.  U.  S. 
Grant,  who  arrived  at  Saratoga  on  June  i6th,  1885,  (during 
my  stay  for  health),  so  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  old 
veteran  while  he  was  being  i .  nveyeci  to  the  Mount  Mc- 
Gregor R.  R.,  which  ascends  to  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
where  visitors  can  go  almost  every  hour  and  get  a  view  that 
will  well  repay  them.  I  left  Saratoga  on  ihe  morning  of 
the  lyth  of  June,  and  was  informed  by  the  conductor  of  the 
Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.  that  General  Grant  rested  well  the 
previous  night  and  slept  ten  hours.  As  all  are  aware  our 
Hero  departed  this  life  July  23d,  the  cottage,  however,  is 
kei)t  in  the  same  manner  as  the  day  he  left  it  and  will  be- 
come an  historic  place  for  visitors  wlio  come  to  Saratoj,.* 
from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

It  is  a  fact  and  worthy  of  note  here,  that  for  the  past  four 
years  there  has  not  been  one  day  during  the  months  of  July 
or  August,  but  they  have  had  a  heavy  frost  on  Mount  Mc- 
Gregor. I  can  vouch  for  the  truthfulness  of  this  item  be- 
cause I  know  him.  He  is  the  conductor  of  the  train  on  the 
Mt.  McGregor  R.  R.,  weighs  280  pounds  and  his  name  is 
Frost.  (He  is  a  broad-gauge  conductor  on  a  narrow-gauge 
railroad.) 

Saratoga  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  and  in  the  summer 
season  every  private  house  is  turned  into  a  boarding  house 
of  one  or  the  other  class,  and  therefore  boardmg  houses 
abound — no  space  to  mention  all  of  them  here. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Springs.  First  in  the  list  is  the 
old  and  ever  popular  Congress  Springs. 


fitt,fm^'  f'Kn  w»«liniiirnniiriiiiniiii«MLii]iiiajiat!i»aMair»>aai 


II 


'54 

CONGRESS   SPRINGS 

was  discovered  nearly  a  century  ago — 1792 — by  Hon. 
James  Taylor,  member  of  Congress  from  New  Hampshire. 
The  park  connected  with  the  Springs  is  beautifully  laid  out 
with  walks,  groves,  Howers,  trees,  and  ponds  in  which 
speckled  trout  abound,  fountains,  statuary,  live  deer,  etc., 
etc. ;  where  night  and  day  the  beauty  and  fashion  come  for 
pleasure  and  to  imbibe  the  water  of  Columbia  and  Congress 
Springs,  which  are  within  the  enclosure.  Those  who  are 
posted  come  here  and  drink,  thus  avoiding  those  waters  of 
other  springs  which  are  irritating  in  their  nature,  and  hareh 
and  inflammable  to  the  stomach,  injuring  the  kidneys  and 
producing  results  irreparable.  Read  Congress  Springs  book 
for  1886. 

HATHORN  SPRINGS 

was  accidentally  discovered  in  1869,  and  is  named  after  the 
Hon.  H.  H.  Hathom,  its  owner.  It  is  a  powerful  cathartic. 
The  water  is  bottled  for  sale,  and  is  probably  the  most  solid 
water  knov,  v.^  as  it  is  said  to  contain  eight  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  ftrnins  solid  contents  to  a  gallon. 

EXCELSIOR  SPRINGS  AND  PARK, 

some  distance  from  town,  as  well  as  others  I  shall  mention 
you  can  visit  when  you  take  a  drive.  Washington  Spring 
is  on  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  hotels.  Crystal  Pavilion, 
High  Rock,  Star,  Seltzer,  Red,  a  Spring,  Geyser  or  spout- 
ing spring,  Robert  Ellis,  The  Vichy,  "  The  Champion 
Spouting  Spring,"  Hamiltr  ,  Putnam,  Flat  Rock,  Magnetic, 
Sulphur,  Iron  and  Diamond,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others 


'^'^^'^mx: 


m^ 


IGS 

I — 1792 — by  Hon. 
n  New  Hampshire, 
beautifully  laid  out 
d  ponds  in  which 
iry,  live  deer,  etc., 
d  fashion  come  for 
imbia  and  Congress 
Those  who  are 
ing  those  waters  of 
r  nature,  and  harsh 
g  the  kidneys  and 
ngress  Springs  book 

IGS 

I  is  named  after  the 
.  powerful  cathartic, 
jably  the  most  solid 
eight  hundred  and 
illon. 

ND  PARK, 

:rs  I  shall  mention 
Washington  Spring 
Crystal  Pavilion, 
;,  Geyser  or  spout- 
,  "The  Champion 
lat  Rock,  Magnetic, 
I  number  of  others 


«5S 

which  have  just  been  discovered,  or  may  have  been  before 
this  reaches  you.  If,  however,  you  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  springs  herein  mentioned,  all  I  ask  is  for  you  to  visit 
the  ones  mentioned  as  I  did,  and  accept  the  cordial  invita- 
tion of  each  to  take  a  glass,  and  if  you  do  not  feel  the  next 
day  that  there  are  springs  enough  at  Saratoga,  your  feelings 
will  be  (litTerent  from  the  sensation  felt  by  the  writer  of  this 
article  by  a  large  majority.  The  drives  in  this  vicinity  are 
numerous.  The  road  to  the  cemetery  (which,  I  am  in- 
formed, by  one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  in  order  to  start, 
they  were  obliged  to  borrow  a  corpse  from  an  adjoining 
county,  and  now  a  select  few  who  wish  to  die  happy  come 
and  are  decently  interred,)  has  been  improved,  so  that  the 
drive  there  is  very  much  enhanced  thereby.  By  far  the 
prettiest  drive,  however,  is  through  Broadway  from  High- 
land Hill  for  two  miles  to  Glen  Mitchell.  The  most  fash- 
ionable drive  is  that  tc  the  lake.  Immense  sums  of  money 
have  been  expended  t«j  widen  and  beautify  this  drive,  which 
is  100  feet  wide  and  shaded  with  trees,  and  is  sprinkled  to 
lay  the  dust.  Visito -s  pass  up  on  one  side  and  down  the 
other.  Saratoga  Lake  is  eight  miles  long  and  two  and  one- 
half  wide.  On  an  <,'minence  on  the  western  shore  is  Moon's 
Lake  House,  proverbial  for  its  sumptuous  game  suppers. 
Parties  fond  of  fishing  or  boating  can  enjoy  this  favorite 
pastime  to  their  full  extent.  Its  fitness  for  acquatic  ,sports 
has  been  verified  by  the  many  events  of  tiwt  nature  which 
have  taken  placf.  on  its  placid  waters  since  187 1,  when  the 
Ward  brothers  vanquished  two  English  crews  selected  from 
the  best  professional  oarsmen  of  Great  Britain.  Racing  is 
the  turf  event  of  the  year,  and  cannot  be  described  here, 
only  mentioned. 


rfjiliMiJ^aWi- ■<**--'- ;?*Wft»w"»*'''''*""*^ 


■Mwii 


Life,  at  Saratoga  is  two-fold— Home  and  Hotel.  The 
former  is  enjoyed  by  its  citizens,  who  possess  Bome  of  the 
most  luxurious,  refined  and  elegant  housec  .0  be  found  in 
the  United  States.  Hotel  or  fashsionable  life  is  ephemeral 
in  its  nature,  and,  like  the  beautiful  butterfly,  its  duration  is 
short.  In  these  few  brief  months  wealth,  beauty,  fashion, 
and  other  ingredients  not  so  desirable,  intermingle,  and 
amid  the  gay  whirl  and  excitement  of  the  ball-room  at  night 
one  is  in  a  constant  ecstacy.  From  his  visit  to  the  springs 
in  the  morning,  promenades  or  drives  in  the  afternoon,  the 
music,  lawn  sociable  and  glittering  fireworks  at  night,  one 
wonders  what  time  there  is  for  even  nature's  balmy,  sweet 
restorer — sleep.  Anticipating  your  stay  at  Saratoga  to  have 
come  to  an  end,  you  can  depart  for  Albany  any  morning 
via  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  R.  R.,  or  West  Shore 
R.  R.,  who  run  solid  trains  to  and  from  Saratoga  to  New 
York,  and  New  York  to  Saratoga,  Pullman  Buflfett  cars. 
Some  having  tickets  to  New  York  by  rail  or  boat,  and  de- 
sire to  visit  Boston,  I  advise  everyone  to  take  the  Fall  River 
Line  to  Boston.  If  you  have  tickets  to  Boston  via  Albany 
take  the  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad,  which  is  first  class. 


>S7 


and  Hotel.  The 
)ssess  Bome  of  the 
:g  -o  be  found  in 
!  life  is  ephemeral 
rfly,  its  duration  is 
,  beauty,  fashion, 

intermingle,  and 
ball-room  at  night 
isit  to  the  springs 
he  afternoon,  the 
irks  at  night,  one 
ire's  balmy,  sweet 
:  Saratoga  to  have 
)any  any  morning 
R.,  or  West  Shore 
Saratoga  to  New 
nan   Buffett  cars. 

or  boat,  and  de- 
ike  the  Fall  River 
Joston  via  Albany 
ich  is  first  class. 


NEW  YORK. 

To  those  visiting  New  York  for  the  first  time,  a  iew 
Avords  of  advice  may  not  come  amiss.  I  therefore  suggest 
arriving,  if  possible,  by  daylight.  Everyone  in  the  city 
minds  their  own  business — a  credit  in  some  ways  ;  but  some 
people  make  it  their  business  to  fleece  the  stranger.  I 
would  therefore  say,  keep  your  own  council.  If  informa- 
tion be  required  ask  a  policeman.  Upon  arrival,  take  cars 
or  stage,  if  possible,  to  destination.  If  you  desire  any  of 
the  hotels  represented  in  this  work,  you  will  always  find  one 
or  more  trusty  porters  at  trains  or  boats.  Avoid,  if  possi- 
ble, the  hacks,  unless  you  make  a  fair,  square  bargain  be- 
fore entering  the  vehicle  ;  your  trunk  or  valise  may  accom- 
pany you  with  carriage.  You  will  always  find  upon  all 
trains  or  boats,  courteous  agents  of  the  different  baggage 
and  express  companies,  who  will  take  your  check,  giving  a 
receipt  for  the  same,  which  relieves  you  and  saves  much 
trouble  and  annoyance,  as  their  delivery  system  is  prompt 
and  their  charges  a  stipulated  price ;  no  deviation,  except 
for  quantity. 

Something  should  be  said  here  regarding  the  metropolis 
of  the  American  Continent,  but  space  as  well  as  time  pre- 
vents. As  everything  seen  here  is  in  grandeur  superior  to 
elsewhere,  the  impression  made  upon  the  mind  while  here 
will  be  everlasting,  I  bhail  not  try  to  befog  the  mind  with  as 
meager  a  mention  as  I  am  capable  of  giving,  but  simply 


^,jj(jjK'«iafe***i«^*M*'**fi**'»**'««''w''****''' 


tm 


«■■ 


sKs 

>  .r 
-  oc  d 

o»  ►. 

3  as*: 

C5S2 

¥\ 


09 


c 

s 


W  ff-  3  n 

£-Sa.2i 


BO'S** 


z 

♦-TO 
^  (0 

< 

7SO 


C3  ^ 


gwEg 

Ml 

S  CD  1)  t^ 

OS-"., 


OS 

'5? 


!*Sf 


3.(0 


■^j* 


159 

mention  the  principal  hotels.  The  first  one  at  hand  is  the 
Grand  Union  Hotel,  42d  street  near  the  Grand  Central 
Depot.  Money-getting  being  the  chief  aim  of  life,  its 
proper  expenditure  should  not  prove  of  secondary  import- 
ance. That  travel  consumes  a  much  larger  portion  of  our 
finances  than  it  should,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  but  few 
possess  the  scret  of  retrenching  in  that  direction.  Two  im- 
portant factors  of  expense  in  travel  is  carriage  hire  and 
transfer  of  baggage,  and  that  the  traveling  public  is  more 
generally  becoming  disposed  to  throw  off  their  former  bur- 
den, is  patent  from  the  army  of  guests  who  daily  register  at 
and  fill  the  6oo  rooms  (reduced  to  $i.oo  and  upwards  per 
day),  at  the  Grand  Union  Hotel,  opposite  the  Grand 
Central  Depot,  New  York  City.  Its  European  plan,  ele- 
gant restaurants,  caf6,  lunch  and  wine  rooms,  unexcelled 
cuisine,  moderate  prices,  courteous  treatment,  unchallenged 
management,  coupled  with  its  guests  incurring  no  expense 
for  carriage  hire,  or  baggage  transfer,  with  elevated  railway, 
horse  cars  and  stages  to  all  parts  of  the  city  passing  its 
doors,  renders  the  Grand  Union  one  of  the  most  desirable 
of  homes  for  travelers  in  the  city,  and  also  established  its 
success  and  world-famed  popularity. 


""^-"^-'i^'/' 


■^^^l^l^^~-.Jsi*'*^**J"«^^ 


^■;_r'^A  -J   ,*-•.--' 


HOTEL 

-flrat  Streets, 

'.  MPOT. 


"2     fi 

§Z     a 
3      a 

*       '2 
§^    g 

«  rt  i; 

u  u  td  n 

I      °f 

soft's 
?".  t?  Si 

%d 


a"-S 


IF^ 


i6i 


A  MAGNIFICENT  HOTEL. 

The  Murray  Hill  Hotel  is  situated  on  Park  Avenue,  in 
New  York  City,  but  one  block  from  the  Grand  Central 
Depot.  A  more  convenient  hotel  site  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  newly  arrived  traveler  who  would  at  the  earliest 
moment  find  a  home  could  not  have  been  selected.  The 
house  stands  upon  the  highest  grade  in  New  York,  and,  of 
course  occupies  the  healthiest  of  locations.  It  is  of  great 
size,  extending  two  hundred  feet  on  the  Avenne,  more  than 
two  hundred  feet  on  Fortieth  street  on  the  one  side,  and 
on  Forty-first  street  on  the  other.  It  is  of  granite,  brown 
stone  and  brick,  fire-proof.  When  the  traveler  finds  a  hotel 
in  every  way  meeting  his  demands  for  comfort,  he  may 
honestly  praise  it  while  he  disparages  no  other.  For 
New  York  contains  many  costly  structures,  whose  proprie- 
tors severally  believe  that  their  guests  have  reason  to  be 
satisfied.  Hotels  are  not  advertised  as  second-class  by 
those  that  manage  them.  The  man  who  is  used  to  com- 
fort at  home  is  perhaps  as  good  a  judge  as  any  one  con- 


':M:i»'fXi^hiiHeiapK'">^'~- 


l6a  ■  ■■■''-    '■^>':': 

cerning  what  constitutes  a  satisfactory  hotel.  But,  if  you 
come  to  New  York  in  the  summer,  I  recommend  you  to 
this  house,  for  in  all  this  city  there  can  be  no  healthier 
place  in  the  warnj  season.  There  is  a  satisfaction  felt  at 
once  upon  entrance  to  this  beautiful  house.  The  vestibule 
is  apparently  just  large  enough,  the  handsome,  short  flight 
of  marble  steps  that  lead  to  the  office  seems  to  be  just  long 
enough,  the  great  hall  seems  just  high  enough  to  satisfy 
fully  the  idea  that  one  has  of  proper  architectural  propor- 
tion. The  floor  is  of  marble,  but  not  the  hideous  black 
and  white  inset  diagonal.  The  Sienna  is  set  against  the 
slate  and  is  a  carpet  pattern.  One  rather  expects  \t  to  be 
soft  and  yielding  to  the  foot,  it  looks  so  like  a  Wilton. 
The  office  is  roomy ;  not  three  or  four  only,  but  forty  peo 
pie  may  range  themselves  along  its  handsome  counter  ready 
to  sign,  in  regular  order,  the  register.  The  book  stand  is 
no  contracted  affair,  but  space  enough  is  given  to  allow 
display  of,  and  easy  access  to,  all  periodicals  and  news- 
papers. Everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  but  altogether 
convenient.  The  great  fire-place,  which,  with  its  huge 
burning  logs,  in  winter  invites  the  guest  to  share  its  comfort, 
is  an  attraction  that  merits  j.nd  receives  enthusiastic  com- 
ment.    The  electric  clock,  hghted  at  night,  the  chandeliers 


I J 


lotel.  But,  if  you 
icoinmend  you  to 
n  be  no  healthier 
atisfaction  felt  at 
;e.  The  vestibule 
some,  short  flight 
ms  to  be  just  long 
enough  to  satisfy 
hitectural  propor- 
he  hideous  black 
s  set  against  the 
r  expects  u  to  be 
so  like  a  Wilton, 
ily,  but  forty  peo 
ime  counter  ready 
rhe  book  stand  is 
is  given  to  allow 
dicals  and  news- 
!,  but  altogether 
h,  with  its  huge 
share  its  comfort, 
enthusiastic  com- 
t,  the  chandeliers 


which  at  the  proper  time,  because  of  the  light  touch  of  a  knob 
somewhere,  instantly  illuminate  halls  and  parlors,  have  their 
supply  of  electricity  from  the  great  machines  in  the  base- 
ment, and  the  ice  that  is  used  for  any  purpose  through  all 
the  house  is  made  in  huge  condensers  there.  All  the 
departments  seem  to  be  at  all  times  in  the  best  working 
order.  All  the  employ^js  seem  ever  willing  to  do  their  best 
to  please  the  guest.  There  is  a  painstaking  to  furnish  in- 
formation when  it  is  asked ;  if  one  clerk  does  not  know  he 
directs  you  to  one  who  does.  In  the  matter  of  meals,  they 
are  ready  at  all  hours.  At  the  time  of  registry,  the  choice 
:s  made  between  the  American  or  the  European  plan,  but 
the  .^estaurants  above  and  below  stairs  are  always  available. 
It  woulil  be  easy  for  me  to  compliment  the  management 
and  the  efficient  office  staff",  but  that  goes  for  the  saying. 
As  space  is  limited,  I  need  only  advise  you  to  give  the 
Murray  Hill  Hotel  your  patronage  once ;  they  will  see  that, 
you  make  it  your  home  thereafter.  ^-ii^t"'^ 


^  <-';    i  -"H^."!  'i 


/I 


.■'es/j^-sa»^^,;«35?^»?.A*'^;*s-  ■■'  ■ 


ATTRACTIONS  OF  THE  GRAND  CENTRAL  HOTEL 

This  Hotel  is  universally  acknowledged  the  coolest  in  New  York.  The 
wide  straight  halls  running  from  Broadway  to  Hercer  street,  insure  perfect 
circulation  of  air.  The  five  large  and  el^ant  parlors.  The  handsomely 
deoofated  and  cheerful  Dining  and  Supper  Booms,  It  is  provided  with  two 
of  Otis  &  Co.'s  celebrated  Klevators.  Six  outside  Fire  Escapes  have  been 
recently  added,  which,  with  Ave  wide  stairways,  from  roof  to  ground  floor 
makes  the  "GRAND  CENTRAL  HOTEL" 

THE   SAFEST    HOTEL    IN    AMERICA. 
Itoh  Soot  in  the  tnildlBg  ii  c!ghtly  pttroUti  ty  »  Wttohnuui  with  t  t«U-ttl*  Cloek. 

FAYMAN  &  SPRAGUE,  Proprictore. 


fiefEii 


NTRAl  HOTEL 

est  in  New  York.  The 
r  street,  insure  perfect 
}rs.  The  huidsoinelr 
[t  is  provided  with  two 
li'ire  BBcapee  hare  been 
m  roof  to  ground  floor 

\MERICA. 

iw  with  *  t«U-ttl*  Clook. 

E,  Proprietors. 


The  next  on  the  list  is  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  Broad- 
way, one  of  the  largest  in  the  city.  It  has  lately  been  re- 
fitted, redecorated  and  re-furnished,  and  under  its  present 
proprietors,  Messrs.  Fayman  &  Sprague,  is  receiving  the  pat- 
ronage its  merits  deserve.  It  is  run  on  the  American  and 
European  plans,  so  that  anyone  can  be  pleased.  Its  graded 
prices,  its  location  and  appointmRnts,  together  with  the 
friends  one  meets  here,  as  it  is  patronized  by  more  South- 
erners than  any  hotel  in  New  York,  makes  it  a  pleasant 
place  for  tourist  or  traveler.  I  make  it  my  home  when  in 
the  city,  and  feel  confident  you  will  be  pleased  and  recom- 
mend your  friends  there  after  a  visit,  the  same  as  I  do  you. 
There  was  some  talk  of  changing  the  name  of  this  "  latid- 
mark,"  on  account  of  the  thorough  change  in  the  hotel  and 
management,  although  I  confess  it  would  be  applicable  to 
the  situation,  as  everything  else  has  been  changed  ;  it  would 
be  better  for  its  patrons  to  advertise  the  changes  than  the 
new  name.  Therefore,  no  matter  what  they  call  the  Graud 
Central,  it  will  please  you  as  a  hotel,  and  its  prices  are  not 
extravagant. 

While  in  New  York,  about  the  middle  of  June,  I  thought 
it  would  be  a  good  idea  if  some  one  of  the  many  merchants 
in  the  city  were  to  advertise  in  this  little  volume ;  knowing 
it  is  not  thrown  away  but  retained  as  a  souvenir,  it  will  be 
a  perpetual  advertisement  ;  therefore  I  induced  Ehrich 
Brothers,  8th  avenue,  24th  and  25th  streets,  to  take  a  page, 
and  after  visiting  the  many  departments  and  seeing  articles 
useful  and  ornamental  for  male  and  female,  to  wear  or  use, 
every  day  in  life  from  the  cradle  to  the  grave,  from  a  needle 
to  an  anchor,  at  prices  so  low  were  it  at  my  home  I  could 


!7J?i5r'WR«?ttB»r*tt- 


I 


YoIJ^vNTAFFoRP 


^ 


Customers 
Cao  To 


A  Store 

fOR  WHAT 
vyi1E:NlY'0UC/\N 

SeiLl  it  I 


^    ON  IT. 


/\SK  Jobber 

Of^SENDpOFJ 

Sample  CArJ 


|S\XTttHW)»WtD  fOVlHOSTO  <k  ^a.\HCNsi 

~  MEN08  EVERYTHINC 

lOLAU.  CHINA.  LIATHER,  BOOKS,  FURNITURI 

■  •TRONO  ■•  Iron.    SOLID  ■■  ■  RaMi.i 

|((Mn  CARD  or  DULIR  WHOOOM  NOT  Kit* 
\\-ft  «la».>>O*TA0tFORl«MPl.tTINC*Nnin 

lllmli  Owiwiit  Co.,  Oloiwwltr.  MMfctHI 


LWe 

WITHOUT 


FOR  (2ING 

fUF^hllTUF^E, 
Gl/\55, 
China. 
x/orV. 
Book's. 

Leathef? 

/AusicaL 
NSTf^UMENJr5 

Statuary, 

llTlSUNEqu/XLLED.i 

tf;y  ij. 


Le  Paoe's  Liodid  Qlue  is  used  bv  PiiUinaii  Palace  Car  Co.,  Haaon  &  Hamlio 
Organ  uml  Piano  Co.,  and  by  tliousands  of  flrat  clasg  manufacturers  and  mechanics 
throuf^Qout  the  world  for  all  kinds  of  fine  work.  Pronounced  strokoebt  adhesive 
KNOWN.  Sold  in  tin  cans  for  mechanics  and  amateum,  and  in  bottles  for  family  use. 
The  total  quantil.7  sold  between  January,  IH80,  and  January,  1885,  in  all  parts  of  the 
world  amounted  to  over  84  million  bottles. 


-mw^'^'c.; 


\:£f:!'£^^^Mlkik 


w^ 


LiVe 

WITHOUT 


^    GLUE. 

ii^tHe^ioiIse 

Gl/\55, 

CrilNA, 
N/ORY'. 

Book's. 
Leathef? 

AusicaL 

Statuary, 

ITlSUNEquaiLED. 

TF^Y  1  J. 


?ar  Co.,  Mason  &  HaniliD 
ufacturers  and  iiiei.-haDios 
need  sTROKOEST  adhesive 
i  in  bottles  for  fniiiily  use. 
ry,  1885,  in  all  parts  of  the 


167 

never  get  away  from*  their  stores  with  a  cent  in  my  pocket ; 
'lerefore,  1  say,  do  not  carry  too  much  money  along  with 
you  unless  you  take  the  precaution  to  have  a  dray  or  express 
wagon  to  remove  the  goods.  .Space  would  not  permit 
mentioning  articles  desired,  and  would  therefore  invite 
tourists  and  others  to  visit  their  stores,  and  inspect  all  de- 
partments. I  would  like  to  say  here  that  I  published  this 
book  and  advised  the  advertisers  therein  to  take  the  space, 
feelini;  it  would  bring  back  to  them  four-fold  what  they  paid 
me.  It  will,  therefore,  afford  me  i)leasiire  to  have  you 
nu  iition  to  any  of  the  advertisers  that  it  was  through  my 
solicitation  and  this  work  that  you  favored  them  with  your 
patronage  ;   it  will  do  you  no  harm  and  benefit  mc. 

BOSTON 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditions  and  historical  associa- 
tions, but  for  public  enterprise  and  social  culture,  educa- 
tional and  literary  facilities.  Boston  is  peculiarly  Boston, 
and  no  one  can  describe  its  public,  private  or  natural  beau- 
ties in  the  space  allotted  me  here.  The  principal  sights  are 
Bunker  Hill  Monument,  Faneuil  !lall,  the  Common,  Public 
Garden,  Old  and  New  State  houses.  Public  Library,  Old  and 
New  South  Churches,  Natural  History  builrngs,  Agricul- 
tural building,  Institute  of  Technology,  New  Trinity  Church, 
Mount  Au'nirn,  Harvard  University  building.  Music  Hall, 
the  Great  Organ,  City  Hall,  Hospitals  and  other  sights  too 
numerous  to  mention  here.  Trimountain,  or  Three  Moun- 
tains, as  Boston  was  originally  called,  is  a  penin,  '  i  of  about 
700  acres,  al  nost  surrounded  by  the  sea.  Its  climate  in  the 
hottest  part  of  seasons  is  deliciously  cool,  bracing  and  in- 
vigorating, and  it  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  healthiest  cities 


'^SSc, 


•;4ia!«*5r' 


i 


1 68 


>«■>; 


THE  FALL  RIVER  LINE 


BETWEEN 


NEW  YORK'^.ndBOSTON 

■VI-A. 

NEWrOfiT  AND  FALL  HIVEX. 

STEAMERS    ^  '.'^SI{i^:u^\' ii^liki covonr. 


TUK  (IBEAT  IIUITE  HETWEEN 


!0  rohk  ^fib  jiu  i^f  ntjioHj?. 

CAFE  COD, 

MARTHA'S  VINEYARD, 
NANTUCKET, 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 

MOUNT  DESKRT.  &-..  ko. 

DSf{^'*  Service  During  Summer  of   1  886. 

2   BOATS  EVERY  WEEK   DAY   BETWEEN 

New  York  and  Fall  River. 

ONE  BOAT  ON  SUNDAY. 

Splendid  Bands  of  Music  on  each  Boat. 

Leave  New  York,  Her  88  North  River,  foot  of  Murray  Street 
andScSnd'strelu.'**''^  ^'*'°°  '^°'"  "'"  ^"'""^  """'*"•  '^°''"«''  »'""'' 
Ra.l'C^„1.e'L""N'."^'"a^dZl.t'^;:"'  g'o°n°!'^S?rnfer^  ^"^'  °"'^  ''  ""••»°' 

pKm  i1.UiJ^?„Si7d''f'i2l.'°""''"''^"'''''''  "«•*  «»•»"'  ••»«• 

QEORGE  L.  CONNOR, 

General  Passenger  Agent  New  York. 


liiMi 


^  LINE 

OSTON 

HIVEX. 


3RIST0L. 

>ND  OLD  C:)T.ONY. 


I  ht^om^. 


A  INS, 
DESERT.  42..  ko. 

irof   1886. 

STWEEN 

.  River. 


each  Boat. 

ra.v  Street. 

station,  corner  South 

City,  only  49  miles  of 

Old  Colony  and 

:ONNOR, 

lit  New  York. 


169 

in  the  world.  Its  harbor,  one  of  the  bent  on  the  co».,t,  i» 
about  twenty  miles  long  by  eight  wide.  It.s  many  islands 
and  coast  are  lined  with  thou-sands  of  delightful  summer 
resorts,  reached  by  numerous  railroads  and  steamboats 
every  hour  of  the  day,  forming  a  panorama  of  busy  life  and 
pleasure  to  be  seen  nowhere  else.  Its  drives  inland  are  none 
the  less  interesting  and  picturesque,  whether  we  visit  the 
cla.ssic  shades  of  old  Harvard,  the  romantic  walks  at 
Wellesley,  or  the  hundred  delightful  suburban  villages, 
whose  well-kept  streets,  bright  lawns  and  elegant  gardens 
simply  reflect  the  elegance  and  taste  within  the  homes  of 
those  who  made  Boston  what  it  is.  The  excellent  horse  car 
service  of  Boston  is  one  of  the  best  institutions.  Nowhere 
else  in  the  country  is  this  important  convenience  to  visitors 
so  complete  as  here.  The  broad,  handsome,  open  cars 
reach  all  points  within  ten  miles  of  the  City  Hall,  and  give 
visitors  a  most  delightful  opportunity  to  see  the  attraction* 
at  the  least  possible  charge. 

Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  embraces  Boston 
proper,  East  Boston,  South  Boston,  Roxbury,  West  Rox- 
bury,  Brighton,  Charlestown  and  Dorchester.  Boston  proper, 
or  old  Boston,  was  very  uneven  in  surface,  and  originally 
presenting  three  hills.  Bacon,  Copp's,  the  Fort,  the  former 
of  which  is  about  130  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Indian 
name  of  this  peninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaning  "Sweet 
Waters."  A  narrow  strip  of  land  called  the  "  Neck  "  joined 
the  peninsula  to  the  main  land ;  this  neck  was  formerly 
overflowed  by  the  tide,  but  has  been  filled  in  and  widened, 
and  is  now  thickly  built  upon.  East  Boston  occupies  the 
west  portion  of  Noodle's  or  Maverick's  Island.  Here  is 
tiie  deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and  here  the  ocean  steam- 


f 


If  your  child  is  lacking  in  the  elements  of  perfect  childhood,  try  Ridge's 
Food.  It  iH  the  claim  of  the  Manufacturers,  indorsed  by  hundreds,  that  it  is  the 
best  food  for  the  growing  child,  we  believe  more  children  have  been  success- 
fully reared  upon  Ridge's  Food  than  upon  all  the  other  foods  combined.  Try  it 
mothers  and  be  oonT&oed  of  Its  worth.  Send  to  ITOOIiBICH  ft  CO.. 
JPalmer,  DlaMi.,  for  pamphlet.  Sent  free  to  any  address.  Its  perusal  will 
save  much  anxiety. 


'Mvexm&.m'xm&i 


I 


^!^ 
^^^ 


-V  .-■■ 


eot  childhood,  try  Ridge's 
by  hundreds,  that  it  is  the 
lildren  have  been  success- 
er  foodR  combined.  Try  it 
WOOI.BICH  tt  CO., 
r  address.    Its  perusal  will 


era  chiefly  lie.  The  wharf  now  used  by  the  Cunard  steam- 
ers is  1,000  feet  long.  South  Boston  extends  about  two 
miles  along  the  south  side  of  the  harbor,  an  arm  of  which 
separates  it  from  Boston  proper. 

The  first  white  inhabitant  of  Boston  was  the  Rev.  John 
Blackstone,  supposed  to  have  been  an  Episcopal  clergyman, 
and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.     Here  he  lived  until    1630, 
when  John  Winthrop,  (afterward  the  first  Governor  of  Mas- 
sachusetts) came  across  the  river  from  Charlestown,  where 
he  had  dwelt  with  some  fellow  immigrants  for  a  short  time. 
About  1635  Mr.  Blackstone  sold  his  claim  to  the  now  pop- 
ulous peninsula  for  ;;^3o,  and  removed  to   Rhode  Island. 
The  first  church  was  built  in  1632  ;  the  first  wharf  in  1673. 
Four  years  later  a  postmaster  was  appointed,  and  in  1704 
(April  24th)  the  first  newspaper,  called  the  Boston  News 
Letter,  was  published.     The  "  Boston  Massacre  "  happened 
March  5,  1770,  when  three  persons  were  killed   and  five 
wounded  by  the  fire  of  the  soldiers.     In  1773  tea  was  de- 
stroyed in  the  harbor,  and  Boston  bore  a  conspicuous  part 
in  the  opening  scenes  of  the  Revolution.     The  city  was  in- 
corporated in  1822,  with  a  population  of  45,000,  which  had 
increased  to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,850  in  i860,  and  250,- 
526  in  1870.     By  the  recent  annexation  of  the  suburbs  of 
Brighton,  Charlcstowii,  West  Roxbury,  etc.,  the  population 
has  been  increased  to  341,919  (in  February,  1876).     Popu- 
lation 362,876  in  1880.     On  the  9th  of  November,  1872, 
one  of  the  most  terrible  conflagrations  ever  known  in  the 
United  Slates  swept  away  the  principal  business  portion  of 
Boston.     The  fire  broke  out  on  Saturday  evening,  and  con- 
tinued until  noon  on  the  following  day,  when  it  was  brought 


-«?^ 


l6i(UW#*l«>«m«/M>K^f^ 


1'  •' 


Is  i 

1 .2 


172 

under  control,  but  again  broke  forth  in  consequence  of  an 
explosion  of  gas,  about  midnight,  and  raged  until  7  o'clock 
Monday  morning.  The  district  burnt  over,  extended  from 
Summer  and  Bedford  street  on  the  south,  to  near  State 
street  on  the  north,  and  from  Washington  street  east  to  the 
harbor.  About  800  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  city  were 
destroyed,  causing  a  loss  of  $80,000,000.  ' 


OBJECTS  OF  ANTIQUARIAN  INTEREST. 

Among  "buildings  with  a  Hisv, "',"  the  most  interesting 
in  the  United  States,  next  to  Independence  Hall,  in  Phila- 
delphia, is  Faneui!  Hall.  The  famous  edifice,  the  "  cradle 
of  liberty,"  is  in  Dock  Square,  which  also  has  an  historical 
fame  because  of  the  meetings  of  the  Revolutionary  patriots 
that  was  held  there.  The  building  was  erected  in  1742, 
by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  Huj,  -"not  merchant,  and  by  him  pre- 
sented to  the  town.  Its  c  -iginal  dimensions  were  100  by 
40  feet.  Destroyed  by  fire  in  1761,  it  was  rebuilt  in  1763, 
and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions  in  1805.  A  full 
length  portrait  of  the  founder,  together  with  the  pictures  of 
Washington,  by  Stuart,  of  Webster,  by  Healey,  of  Samuel 
Adams,  by  Copeley,  and  portraits  of  John  Quincy  Adams, 
Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  and  Governor  Andrew 
adorn  the  walls.  The  basement  of  the  hall  is  a  market. 
The  old  State  House,  in  Washington  street,  at  the  head  of 
State  street,  was  erected  in  1748,  and  was  for  half  a  cen- 
tury the  seat  of  the  "  Great  and  General  Court  of  Massa 
chusetts,"  being  the  building  of  which  such  frequent  men- 
tion is  made  in  revolutionary  annals.  It  has  long  been 
given  up  to  business   purposes,  the  interior  having  been 


consequence  of  an 
aged  until  7  o'clock 
)vcr,  extended  from 
outh,  to  near  State 
)n  street  east  to  the 
igs  in  the  city  were 


SI  INTEREST. 

^e  most  interesting 
snce  Hall,  in  Phila- 
edifice,  the  "  cradle 
30  has  an  historical 
volutionary  patriots 
as  erected  in  1742, 
it,  and  by  him  pre- 
nsions  were  100  by 
was  rebuilt  in  1763, 
IS  in  1805.  A  full 
with  the  pictures  of 
Healey,  of  Samuel 
>hn  Quincy  Adams, 
1  Governor  Andrew 
e  hall  is  a  market, 
reet,  at  the  head  of 
was  for  half  a  cen- 
al  Court  of  Massa 
nich  frequent  men- 
It  has  long  been 
iterior  having  been 


■■WWS*'!"*' 


•MPW! 


completely  remodeled,  and  the  edifice  surmounted  by  a  roof 
which  has  wholly  destroyed  the  quaint  effect  of  the  original 
architecture.     Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Salem  street, 
near  Copp's  Hill,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having 
been  erected  in   1722.     It  has  a  lofty  steeple,  and  in  the 
tower  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells.     The  Old  South  Church,  cor- 
ner of  Washington  and  Milk  streets,  is  an  object  of  much 
interest,  it  is  of  brick,  and  was  built  in   1729,  on  the  site 
where  the  first  edifice  of  the  society  had  stood  since  1669. 
The  church  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the  heroes 
of  '76,  and  during  the  British  occupation  of  the  city,  was 
used   as  a  place  for  cavalry-drill.     It  barely  escaped  the 
flames  in  the  great  fire.     The  Old  South  Society  having 
erected  a  new  place  of  worship  on  Boylston  street,  the  old 
building  was  offered  for  sale,  when  a  patriotic  effort  among 
the  people  originated  a  subscription  for  the  purpose  of  rais- 
ing funds  to  secure  its  preservation.     King's  Chapel  (Uni- 
tarian),  comer  Tremont  and  School  streets,  was  founded  in 
1686,  and  the  present  building,  a  plain  granite  structure, 
erected  in  1750-54.     Adjoining  the  church  is  the  first  bury- 
ing  ground  established  in  Boston.     In  it  are  buried  Isaac 
Johnson,  "  the  father  of  Boston,"  Governor  Winthrop,  John 
Cotton,  and  other  distinguished  men.     On   the  corner  of 
Washington  and  School  streets,  is  the  Old  Corner  Book- 
store, a  building  dating  from  1712.     The  old  North  Bury- 
ing-ground,  on  the  brow  of  Copp's  Hill,  was  the  second  es- 
tablished in  the  city,  and  is  still  sacredly  preserved.     Here 
lies  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs.  Increase,  Cot- 
ton artd  Samuel  Mather. 


f"sr- 


174 


THE  OLD  CEMETERY  IN  THE  COMMON, 

In  that  corner  of  the  Common  bounded  by  Tremont  and 
Boylston  streets,  and  lying  directly  between  the  Masonic 
Temple  and  the  Public  Library,  is  an  old  burying-grouud, 
shut  off  from  the  Common  and  the  streets  by  an  iron  fence. 
It  was  formerly  known  as  the  South,  and  later  as  the  Cen- 
tral burying-ground.  It  was  opened  in  1756,  but  the  oldest 
stone  is  dated  1761.  The  best  known  name  upon  any  of 
the  ancient  stones  is  that  of  Monsieur  Julien,  the  most 
noted  restaurateur  of  the  city  a  century  past,  and  the  in- 
ventor of  the  famous  soup  that  still  bears  his  name.  This 
cemetery  is  the  least  interesting  of  the  old  burying  places 
of  Boston,  and  is  consequently  seldom  noticed  by  the 
stranger. 

There  are  according  to  the  directory  nearly  two  hundred 
hotels  in  the  city.  With  that  fact  in  view  I  shall  mention 
first  the  American  House  and  United  States.  In  suggesting 
to  intending  visitors  to  Boston  the  name  of  the  "  Old 
United  States  Hotel"  the  proprietor  feels  justified  in  recom- 
mending the  house  for  just  what  it  is,  no  more,  no  less.  I 
am  at  home  when  in  the  United  States  Hotel,  it  pleases  me, 
and  I  am  positive  it  will  please  you. 

The  United  States  Hotel  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  of 
the  well-established  hotels  of  Boston.  Its  fame  is  wide- 
spread.    Its  seal  dates  back  to   1826,  and  from  that  early 


HE  COMMON, 

ed  by  Tremont  and 
ween  the  Masonic 
aid  burying-grouud, 
ts  by  an  iron  fence, 
d  later  as  the  Cen- 
1756,  but  the  oldest 
name  upon  any  of 
ir  Julien,  the  most 
y  past,  and  the  in- 
rs  his  name.  This 
old  burying  places 
m    noticed   by  the 

nearly  two  hundred 
ew  I  shall  mention 
ites.  In  suggesting 
lame  of  the  "  Old 
s  justified  in  recom- 
o  more,  no  less.  I 
lotel,  it  pleases  me, 

e  oldest  and  best  of 

Its  fame  is  wide- 

and  from  that  early 


iiiimHirtfm;l»t»l,ri|i   .i.i.ui    ina>>Jii.iyy 


IVLlll  J.^U'  J-'*     'Ti    ^ 


i7f 
date  to  the  present  it  has  been  maintained  up  to  the  best 
standard,  but  never  better  than  now.  It  is  situated  directly- 
opposite  the  Boston  &  Albany,  within  two  bl  s  of  the  Old 
Colony,  and  only  a  short  distance  from  the  New  York  & 
New  England,  and  Providence  Railroad  Stations,  and  is  the 
nearest  hotel  to  the  retail  portions  of  the  city,  and  the  great 
commercial  centres. 

The  "United  States"  is  occupied  largely  in  winter  by 
families  owning  their  own  private  residences  in  the  adjoin- 
ing towns,  who  come  into  the  city  and  make  their  residence 
at  this  famous  old  house  for  the  winter  months.  Dunng  the 
summer  season,  therefore,  their  great  family  rooms  are  avail- 
able for  tourists,  families,  and  pleasure  parties,  giving  ac- 
commodations that  could  not  otherwise  be  afforded,  and  so 
allow  guests  the  most  extensive  variety  of  rooms  at  the  low 
est  possible  charges.  During  the  summer  months  the  rate& 
are  reduced  to  $2.50,  $3.00,  and  $3.50  per  day,  according 
to  accommodations,  with  board  ;  ooms  without  board  $i.oa 
and  upwards,  thus  giving  visitors  an  opportunity  of  making 
this  hotel  their  permanent  headquarters,  from  which  to  make 
daily  excursions  to  the  thousand  places  of  historical  interest 
with  which  the  city  and  suburbs  abound,  and  to  the  great 
manufacturing  cities  which  surround  it ;  while  the  fifteen 
hundred  summer  resorts  and  boarding-houses  down  the  har- 
bor and  along  the  coast  are  available  every  fifteen  minutes 
by  boat  or  rail.     Thus  the  "  United  States"  will  be  found 


I 


;        ' 


iMhttlliglMIIMi 


"'^r— Ti"ii, ,  -III     II 


11 


176 


AMERICAN  HOUSE 


BOSTON. 


■^  Oentqal  liocatinn,  ^eiilject  iCei-tilation.  4#- 


TRK  NCAREirr 


FIRST-CLASS     HOTKL 

TO  NORTBCBN  AND  BABTERN  DKPOT8. 

Particularly   Desirable   for   Families   and   Tourists. 
Conveniently  Located  for  either  Busi- 
ness or  Pleasure. 


American  Plan,  |k3*00  per  DAY  and  upwards 
Rooms  only  I  .OO  "        "        "  " 

AccordlnK   to   Size   and    Location   of  Room. 

PARLORS   AND   BAXHS    EXTRA. 

Refitted  and  Greatly  Improved. 

BY  RECENT  ALTERATIONS. 


HENRY  B.  RICE  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 

EanoTor,  near  WaBhington  St. 


S  i   ! 

■  I    '■ 


EIOUSE 


SI. 


BLtilation.  ^ 


!l 


HOTKL 


28  and   Tourlete. 
ther  Bu8i-       


K  and  up'wards 

ti  <« 

Ion   of  Room. 

Extra. 

'  Improved. 

ONS. 

Proprietors. 

iSt. 


177 

not  only  a  most  accessible  and  convenient  hotel  on  arriving 
at  Boston,  but  will  be  found  equally  comfortable  and  econ- 
omical for  permanent  as  well  as  transient  guests,  while  the 
facilities  for  reaching  all  the  suburban  localities  and  various 
sea-shore  resorts  are  unequalled  by  any  hotel  in  Boston. 

The  American  House,  Boston,  is  the  nearest  first-class 
hotel  to  the  Northern  and  Eastern  Railroad  Depots,  and 
can  without  hesitation,  be  recommended  as  one  of  the  best 
in  the  city.  It  has  broad,  well  lighted  corridors,  spacious 
public  rooms  and  all  modern  improvements  for  the  con- 
venience of  guests,  and  has  long  been  noted  for  the  cleanli- 
ness and  comfort  of  its  rooms,  the  invariable  excellence  of 
its  table,  and  that  air  of  home-like  comfort  which  is  so  re- 
freshing to  the  tired  traveler.  It  has  a  large  number  of 
suites  particulary  desirable  for  families  and  large  parties, 
and  contains  no  dark  rooms  in  which  to  store  away  an  un- 
suspecting n  Inight  guest.  It  is  perfectly  ventilated,  has 
six  stairways  from  top  to  bottom,  and  recently  renovated 
and  improved  ;  furnishes  superior  accommodations  at  more 
moderate  rates  than  most  first-clas»  liotels.  It  is  regularly 
kept  on  the  American  plan,  charging  $3.00  and  $3.50  per 
day,  according  to  size  and  location  of  rooms,  and  is  de- 
servedly popular  with  the  best  class  of  pleasure  and  commer- 
cial travelers,  but  rooms  are  let  with  or  without  meals  at 
the  option  of  guests,        .< .:  .^ 


\,..^ysaJkai^it£' 


178 

One  of  the  best  traveling  companions  oa  a  pleasure  trip 
is  a  reliable  Railway  Guide,  and  we  advise  the  tourist  to 
get  the  best,  as  a  cheap  guide  is  like  a  cheap  watch — never 
on  time. 


As  we  hold  that  this  little  volume  is  not  thrown  away,  but 
taken  home  for  future  reference,  a  little  advice  of  how  to 
start  upon  a  trip,  &c.,  would  not  come  amiss.     We  say 

I  St,  Select  your  route.  2d,  Buy  your  tickets  and  secure 
your  parlor  car  seats.  3d,  Show  your  tickets  to  the  baggage 
master  and  have  your  baggage  checked.  4th,  Go  to  the 
news  stand  and  ask  for  The  "  Phat  Boy's"  Racy  Description 
of  fhe  St.  Lawrence  River,  or  the  Pathfinder's  Railway 
Guide,  as  it  is  the  oldest  railway  guide  published,  and  the 
July  number  will  contain  the  best  railroad  map  ever  pub- 
lished. It  is  the  only  recognized  mouthpiece  of  the  Pas- 
senger Agents  Association  ;  one  can  be  assured  of  its  re- 
liability. The  Phat  Boy  requests  his  friends  to  send  to 
them  next  spring  for  a  copy  of  their  summer  tours  to  select 
your  vacation  trip.  Address,  Pathfinder,  Boston,  Mass. 
5  th,  Don't  bother  the  conductor  by  asking  questions,  as  he 
has  all  he  can  do  to  attend  to  his  train,  and  the  Pathfinder's 
official  tables  and  valuable  maps  tell  the  whole  story. 

I  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  correctly  the 
route  over  which  you  have  passed,  dear  reader.     There  are, 


iMi;)l»).iii.ii),iflM    .ii-aHi  ft!.;" "'l".!';'!. 


mufniiMJin.!'.^.. II  «m,i 


on  a  pleasure  trip 
vise  the  tourist  to 
lieap  watch — never 


it  thrown  away,  but 
e  advice  of  how  to 
Tiiss.     We  say 

tickets  and  secure 
kets  to  the  baggage 
.  4th,  Go  to  the 
i"  Racy  Description 
ithfinder's  Railway 
published,  and  the 
>ad  map  ever  pub- 
thpiece  of  the  Pas- 
e  assured  of  its  re- 
friends  to  send  to 
imer  tours  to  select 
ier,  Boston,  Mass. 
ing  questions,  as  he 
mdthe  Pathfinder's 
:  whole  story.  \  >  .  '  . 

Uy  and  correctly  the 
reader.     There  are, 


»79 

doubtless,  some  whose  knowledge  of  particular  points  is 
greater  than  my  own  ;  to  those  I  say  most  cheerfully,  note 
them  down,  and  forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Roches- 
ter, N.  Y.,  and,  I  assure  you,  thty  shall  have  a  position  in 
the  next  edition  of  this  work,  as  my  object  and  aim  is  to 
make  this  a  perfect  guide  for  any  person  desirous  of  making 
this,  the  finest  trip  on  the  continent. 

After  returning  home  and  resuming  the  ares  and  posi- 
tion which  you  left  behind  for  this  trip,  may  you  be  filled 
with  animation,  life  and  health  acquired  by  your  excursion 
trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  etc.,  and  the  pleasant  mem- 
ories of  scenes  witnessed,  wonders  visited,  as  well  as  the 
beauties  of  nature  revealed,  you  will  have  double  the  vigor 
to  prosecute  the  duties  devolving  upon  you,  with  only  spare 
time  on  hand  to  speak  to  your  acquaintances  and  friends, 
recommending  them  to  make  the  same  trip,  not  forgetting 
to  mention  The  "  Phat  Boy's"  Racy  Description  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  River  as  a  guide  for  hotel  and  all  points  of  inter- 
est connected  with  the  trip.  I  will  now  lift  my  hat  to  the 
tourist  and  others  who  have  made  the  trip,  and  bid  them  a 
temporary  farewell.  Hoping  to  see,  next  vacation  yourself 
and  friends,  I  only  say 

ADIEU.        ^  •' 


'i-  k-  :^Mt34:?■^'^ 


i8o 

i 


M.  I.  MiMB/ILL  k  ®0., 


ROCHESTER,   N.  Y. 


FRAGRANT   VANITY   FAIR, 


SUPERLATIVE,  .        .     ,  . 

CLOTH    OF  GOLD, 


''■  ■'^j'-v^f ' 


;*>'/".<,  ,*,  »"H'i 


'■(  . 


STRHlGHTtCUTiCIGHRETTES. 

People  of  refined  taste  who  desire  exceptionally 

fine  Cigarettes  should  use  only  our  Straight 

Cut,  put  up  in  Satin  Packets 

and  Boxes  of 

lOs,    20s,    50s,    QiXX.cX    lOOs. 


^' 


,  4  ilo., 


Yi 


fi  «'4i  jv;-Vi'! 


(J  > 


H 

OF 

GOLD, 

^  , 

'.'..',»'■ 

.i .-!/:. 

"ti'-- 

;'■'?'"' 

'■''■ 

I 

t  ■).  I* '■ 

V 

.^V'' 

'"kV'-rt'??^'  ■*" 

\1 

'f  ■■■'. 

'■■'•?i;i^  ■ 

p 

.  h  ?i' 

,t-.(^v/^.^/V^  .  V  . 

L-ij;?f  kii  -M^  \- 

.RETTES. 

Bxceptionally 
)ur  Straight 
Ickets 


lOOS- 


